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AkPrecision

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Posts posted by AkPrecision

  1. Hi everyone. I took a break from working on my pathy for a while but now im back. I need to know what you guys are using for a cat back exhaists to improve mileage. Not sure if it matters but i live in ca so smog is very strict here. I know this thing has 4 cats a resonator and a muffler. Should i straight pipe it all the way to the rear from the cats and delete resonator and muffler? Or what kind of exhaust are you using? I was under there today changing the fuel filter and the exhaust looks extremely restrictive. Any help is appreciated.

     

    Thanks

    mike

  2. Ok thanks a lot guys. Sorry been in the middle of a move and haven't had a chance to reply. So going to synthetic from standard oil won't be bad? I did that in my tundra and ita been great. I don't have any pending codes. I did have a misfire a few weeka back and replaced the proper coil pack. The plugs do need to be changed soon. I do also have the k and n drop in filter. Will that allow so much air in that it is raising the air fuel ratio? And will I see any real impact from changing to synthetic oil. I have dropped nearlh $10, 000 into this thing in the last year including purchasing the car for $4300. I replaced the pcm, idle air control valve, rear upper control arms, 3 coil pack the full exhaust with all 4 "ca" cats that was $1500. Therea a few other things I replaces jist can't think of it. Im on my 2nd pcm. It has a 2 year warranty and a buddy at a local shop got it for me for $450 with programming

  3. I am due for another oil change soon and I was thinking of running sybthetic instead of its normal 10/30. I think I remember reading somewhere that its bad to use synthetic oil. Is this true and if so why? Also I average 12-14 mog. I mostly drive in the city. I may get on the freeway one or twice a week and only for like 10-15 miles. I drive 3 miles to work and run errands all over town. I have a slightly heavy foot but not to bad. I try not to go over 2500 rpms but once in a while ill hit 3000+ lol. I did add new 16" aluminum pro comp rims but mileage is the same before and after. Is this mileage normal for city miles? Is therr anything that will help besides going a bit slower. I also have warn hubs. Thanks for any advice

    Mike

  4. The only thing I can think of is either someone an aftermarket alarm. Or you may need to relearn the pcm or worse case scenario is while new pcm. Mine went out for different reasons last year retail is anywhere from $900-$1200 depending where you look. A buddt at a local shop was able to get one for me for $400. Again this is pure speculation without seeing what under your dash looks like

  5. Ok so overall how many inches of lift did you achieve with ac coils and the spacer? If I do 2.5" spacer the I will get 3" of lift roughly. If I do 2" I will get 2.5" of lift.I do have the warn hubs installed already so at least that task is already done.

    • Like 1
  6. Thanks everyone I'm liking all the love this forum gives.

    Now on to how much and what I used.

    I used 5 gallons of mixed plastidip total. I am in ca and cannot order the dip pre mixed because commiefornia doesn't allow the chemicals used to thin the dip here. You are suppossed to use toluene or xylene or v m and p naptha. Either works just has different drying rates. I ised a straight 50/50 mix of thinner and dip. I went to local home depot and got all of the supplies. 9 of the 14.5oz cans of dip equals almost exactly 1 gal. So I used 9 cans and 1 gal of thinner which equals two gallons (I used 5 gallons total) the thinner I used is called industrial maintenance coating thinner. Its a generic for xylene and naptha. It works great. I used the earlex 3500 hvlp sprayer. All I needed was a 5 gallon bucket the dip the thinner the sprayer and two rolls of blue tape and some cheap painters plastic that was like $7 for two rolls. Ill try to get pics up of while I was spraying so you can see what I covered. There are many you tube videos and lots of tips on forums on this stuff.If anyone needs tips or anything I can of course help out.

     

    Earlex 3500 was $140

    Dip is aboit $7 per can

    Thinner about $20 per can

    Mixer bucket tape plastic was about $40

     

    So all together roughly $400.

    I was quoted $800 by a few local guys that do it and decided I can do this myself. Apparently I did well for myfirst try. Cool thing is you can always change color or easily repair a twar or scratch. And it protects the paint!!

  7. Hi everyone this is my 2nd post here and I'm in need of help. I want to lift my 01 se and run 33s. I have been following 01silvapathy and love how his looks. Now here is my question. Im going to use fluerys spacers for the front. 2" gives 2.5" lift. Has anyone successfully done 2.5" spacers to achieve 3" of lift? I figure I won't have to trim as much. I do have warn hubs installed. I'm going to run ac coils in the rear because I need it to be stiffer due to a large stereo. Any help is appreciated

    Thanks

    Mike

  8. Ok awesome I actually found a rack at a local junkyard for $150 its missing one of the front caps. And yes I masked the windows and mirrors and lights. Some people spray the lights but it leaves a film on them and I didn't want to buff them. I sprayed the car matte black

  9. Thanks for the love guys. And the big 3 consists of going to bigger wire. Most electrical system have 3 main wires

    The 3 wires are:

    - Positive from battery to positive from alternator

    - Negative from battery to ground

    - Engine block to ground

    Im going to 1awg. Im also bumping up the battery. With all the lights and stereo it will be easier on the electrical system. People running aftermarket lights and/or a fridge or anything that has a large power draw should possibly think of doing this. Pjsnow do you have the part number for the rack? I was looking into that also. Do the bolt holes line up?

  10. Thanks for the love guys. And the big 3 consists of going to bigger wire. Most electrical system have 3 main wires

    The 3 wires are:

    - Positive from battery to positive from alternator

    - Negative from battery to ground

    - Engine block to ground

    Im going to 1awg. Im also bumping up the battery. With all the lights and stereo it will be easier on the electrical system. People running aftermarket lights and/or a fridge or anything that has a large power draw should possibly think of doing this. Pjsnow do you have the part number for the rack? I was looking into that also. Do the bolt holes line up?

  11. 20140625_104028_zps28a9f00e.jpg

     

    This is my 01 se when I first got it late last year. Since then I have done quite a bit and plan to do much more. I have been following many members threads here for about a year and love what I see.

     

    This is how she sits now

     

     

    2014-07-24083329_zps9cc69312.png

     

     

     

    I plastidipped the whole car. I h.i.d headlights and foglights. I did the k&n drop in filter, warn manual hubs bilstein rear shocks kyb struts. I plan to get fluerys front spacers and ac rear coils. New pro comp alloy wheels on the way and going to get 235/85r16 tires after lift. I also have a full true competition stereo. I worked for audio shops for years and im an audiophile. I have jl audio 500/1 amp and 300/4 amp. Pioneer head unit focal speakers and jl audio 10w7v3 in h.o box. Also added a rifle rack to the rear. I plan to do the rola vortex rack and hang a 40" led light bar on it and possible have a local shop fab a custom front bumper and rock sliders. I am also going to do the big 3 upgrade to the electrical system. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated

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