V8path
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Posts posted by V8path
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Hi V8path, thanks for the reply. Motor works fine. Don't have a wiring diagram for the door harness so unsure which wires should be live. Any ideas?
Any simple 12v test light will identify the hot wires
http://www.rvdiscountsuppliers.com/test-light-12v-rv-trailer-motorhome-electrical.html
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If the power to (before) the switch is good, then the issue may be after the switch, ie the driver's side window motor or wiring between the switch and motor.
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Bled the MC to no avail. Tried to bleed the lines... Still nothing. Bypassed the abs block dealy and BAM more brakes then I know what to do with!
Hey new4x4r do you have pics and the MC part numbers you used, and how you plumbed the new MC?
Most of the GM MC's come with a large reservoir and small reservoir which (logic) would mean the larger reservoir should be for the larger front calipers, and the smaller reservoir for the smaller rear calipers.
But the listings I found show the smaller reservoir with a larger port size (9/16-18), and the larger reservoir with a smaller port size (1/2-20). Most manufacturer's listing show the larger port (9/16) as the primary port (but that is the smaller reservoir), and the smaller port (1/2) as the secondary port (larger reservoir).
Anyone able to sort out the confusion?
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As part of the retrofit for the R50 carriers on my and a buddy's trucks, I replaced the OE hinge pins with a 5/8" bolt and used 1/8" nylon washers between the hinge brackets and carrier frame. This a produced a very good adjustable compression to control the swing...and super silent. OE pin is a 16mm shoulder-style pin with a 14mm end IIRC, so I just bored out the lower holes to get the bolt through.
I like the idea of the poly bushing, but I does it allow for excess motion? What sort of tension adjustment does the WD21 carrier have?
So far its firm, no abnormal movement or flexing. There was a lot more movement with the OEM worn bushings.
I just designed the spacing so that its about 1/16" smaller spacing (between the top and bottom of the pivot tube) to put some tension on the hinge bushings, then made sure there's grease on the outer faces of the bushings. Put in a grease fitting, and it's service-able. If it wears quickly, I might try and put in a nylon washer on the bottom on each hinge.
Most of the weight is on the lower flange of the bottom half of the poly bushing. The bushings are the ones used on links in in light suspensions, so they're built to take some movement and rebound. If there's any wear or softening of the bushing, it would likely only be on the bottom half. The bushing kits are about $15 and there's 4 bushings.
I've only a 31" spare on it for now, and the bushings are new. Will see how it holds up when there's a 35" spare on it (my plan was to go to a metal spindle with bearings for that, but thought I'd try this - cheap parts - design for now), but for up to 33", I think it'll hold up for a while. The good thing about the poly bushings, is they will absorb any flex from the rest of the carrier.
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I dig the ingenuity bra!!
Looks good...
Makes me want to put a second carrier on the driver side for other shenanigans...
Thanks.
It was the right price and not overly difficult to fab once I figured out the final design. Not sure how well the poly bushings will hold up but they do absorb a lot of the vibration that was the root cause of the OEM pin and bushing wear. Once the OEM pin and bushings wore a bit, there's play in the hinge and that was the source of that dreaded (metal to metal) rattle that I think all wd21 owners have experienced (given they're all at least 20 years old or more now).
I added grease fittings and still need to fabricate the "stop" to hold the carrier open on uneven surfaces.
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Noises are a funny thing - in that they are sometimes hard to definitely identify the source of the noise.
Have you tried isolating the noise between the exhaust system and engine? It would be loud, but if you disconnected the exhaust from the heard/exhaust manifold, and the "rattle/clanging" was still there when revving the engine, its not the exhaust.
Also, from what you're saying, there is no noise when revving in neutral or park. This means there's no load on the engine, and once the trans is engaged, there is a load.
My guess this is not exhaust related, but engine related. Have you done a compression test, as this sounds like a valve train issue. I've seen this, where it was the beginning of a small head gasket leak, and the extra load caused the valves to be "off" and started to make a noise any time pressure was created (such as a load on the engine).
First thing is to isolated and identify....
Maybe disconnecting the exhaust might be a bit loud and not allow hearing the rattling is it is coming from the engine.
The other way of doing this is having a 2nd person either trying to isolate where the noise is really coming from - have 1 person to rev the engine very very slightly (trans engaged, making sure one foot is firmly on the brake) and the other person on the side of the vehicle, and see if they can isolate where the noise if coming from.
I know of a situation where a "clanking" noise was thought to be coming from the starter (flywheel/transmission area) anytime the trans was engaged or accelerating (fine when cruising). But when finally isolated, it was from the engine block, specifically the cylinder heads (the valve train), and shortly after that, the head gasket completely went and there was water coming out the exhaust. When the plugs were pulled, 2 of the plugs were damp and the coolant was low. When that was topped up, water was streaming out of the spark plug hole. The heads were pulled and we found the breach in the head gasket as the culprit.
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Noises are a funny thing - in that they are sometimes hard to definitely identify the source of the noise.
Have you tried isolating the noise between the exhaust system and engine? It would be loud, but if you disconnected the exhaust from the heard/exhaust manifold, and the "rattle/clanging" was still there when revving the engine, its not the exhaust.
Also, from what you're saying, there is no noise when revving in neutral or park. This means there's no load on the engine, and once the trans is engaged, there is a load.
My guess this is not exhaust related, but engine related. Have you done a compression test, as this sounds like a valve train issue. I've seen this, where it was the beginning of a small head gasket leak, and the extra load caused the valves to be "off" and started to make a noise any time pressure was created (such as a load on the engine).
First thing is to isolated and identify....
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Was going to build a tire carrier from scratch, but decided to try a different route using a set of Energy Suspension bushings, (under $20), some DOM and flat bar. Retained the OEM mounting bracket and carrier.
SO far it seems to be working fairly well. Nice tight firm feel to it, and no more dreaded OEM bushing rattle.
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No matter what other issues you have, the cat should not be rattling like you describe. Fix that, and if the alignment is causing vibration, that's another (SAFETY) issue that should be fixed regardless of the cat.
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When you change the "tension" on the cat, this affects the amount of movement, but you say the noise is still there but bit quieter. Sounds like it might be something inside the cat which is why the noise lessens when changing the mounting tension, so whatever is inside is still rattling around.
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Hey Kingman, is there a MC that you suggest would be a upgrade to the GM ones that come in leaking? Given its a GM hydro boost, and if that's not the main issue and its the MC, there should be something from another model that is a interchangeable bolt on? Most of the after market MC's I see are 3 3/16" inch spacing between the 2 mounting holes.
From what I've read so far, having a power steering pump that puts out between 1,200 to 1,500 psi is ideal, and going to a 1 1/8" bore MC, along with a portioning valve is the way to go.
After a little more research, and talking to a couple guys that upgraded their Tahoe MC to a Chev 3/4T MC (NBS version), they're much happier with the braking feel and performance.
The other upgrade is the power steering pump volumes and PSI. Volume should be at 3 - 3.5 GPM and PSI ideally at 1,500. With the better MC, which is essential if going to bigger calipers or converting read drums to discs, make sure the power steering pump is putting out the flow and PSI needed, otherwise this will end up being a lot of work for no performance gains
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To be honest, its the system its self that makes it feel mushy, though not as bad as the older trucks. Anything hydro boost from GM has come in leaking out of the MC. 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks or vans alike.
In all reality the power is definitely there and it's a viable option... I just can't stand how they operate.
Hey Kingman, is there a MC that you suggest would be a upgrade to the GM ones that come in leaking? Given its a GM hydro boost, and if that's not the main issue and its the MC, there should be something from another model that is a interchangeable bolt on? Most of the after market MC's I see are 3 3/16" inch spacing between the 2 mounting holes.
From what I've read so far, having a power steering pump that puts out between 1,200 to 1,500 psi is ideal, and going to a 1 1/8" bore MC, along with a portioning valve is the way to go.
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Are the leaks from the hydro boost, or the MC? Been doing some research and the guys that love their hydro boost acknowledge there's extra things to do, like a oil cooler, and upgrading the steering pump, to make it work.
It would seem if going the hydro boost route, be prepared to upgrade the weak parts in the system, and if its done right, you get the better performance.
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I have a 87 pathy with drums in the rear. I found a 88 pathy with disk in the rear. I pulled the axles out of the 87 and 88 and swaped them over with no problems. You need to find the same years of suv like 86-89 wd21 90-95 wd21 same with the d21 trucks or r50.
You will need to change the brake lines and e brake line will need to be removed and reinstalled with other e brake line on the new axles. It's easy to do if you like to work lol. Make sure you have the engine running when bleeding the brakes so you don't get air in it and it's a vacuum set up so remmber that. You will not get a hard brake if the engine is not running. It's more work to swap the hole axle housing if you ask me.
I'm considering a hydro boost upgrade http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35946-chevy-master-cylinder-upgrade/.
You mention having the engine running to bleed the brakes. I've not seen anything that says that is mandatory. Anyone else know if it is necessary to have the engine running during the bleeding process?
Given most the wD21's are going on a quarter century or more, I haven't done it yet, but with a little modification by elongating the mounting holes slightly, the Wilwood D154 dual piston (they have a rear specific version) calipers may be a great upgrade option. The specifications for this part, on a quick glance, I think might work.
If anyone gets to it it before I do, it would be nice to confirm this, as I'm sure there's a lot of OEM rear disc owners around.
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Also, most dual diaphragms are smaller diameter but obviously thicker.
Keeping it Nissan, I don't know what a Z32 booster looks like but I believe they were dual diaphragm... The TT also had a clutch booster to keep the left foot light when running a heavy clutch.
There are a few articles re going to a MC from a Turbo 300ZX (90-91 I think are the years). They have dual front ports on the opposite side, are 1 1/8", and are direct bolt on's to the Pathfinder OEM booster.
If keeping it Nissan is the goal, a Nissan dual diaphragm is the way to go, but given I've already gone to GM V8 power plant, trans, Dana 44 front, with planned upgrades for a 241 doubler and NP205 (DSD from a Ford) my goal is getting the best bang for the buck, and being able to have good/easy access to replacement parts if needed.
From Kingman's feedback, its not the hydro boost unit itself that's the issue, its the leaking MC's. Also, the pedal feel issue might be power steering pump or fluid flow issues. The way to go would be to look at a better/bigger MC (especially if running 35" tires) and looking at either a better quality power steering pump, or upgrade the system with a oil cooler, filter, etc. With the V8, 3/16 wall rectangular tube bumpers, 35" tires, the OEM brake system was likely never designed to stop a Pathfinder that is likely 700 - 800 lbs heavier, and needs to be able to stop if after launching it with 350 plus HP
Performance has a price, and high performance needs "know how" - everything from bolt on, to custom fab/modification.
This is a hobby or for some, an obsession for others, and any and all productive information is the purpose of these forums. It helps us customize our rides (for some, "our builds") which is the whole purpose of this community.
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What about upgrading boosters? Is there a larger booster out there that might fit? If you were running all stock components This would improve your powered assist and thus stopping power without having to match MC size to caliper volume and either going too big MC (hard pedal weak brakes) or too small MC (soft pedal too long stroke before brakes engage)
That's always an option, but there's limited space so maybe going to a same diameter or slightly smaller diameter dual diaphragm diameter booster
It really comes down to personal preference (work required and $) and have a combination of components that work well together.
As for the MC, if I recall correctly, the Pathfinder OEM MC is 15/16" or 1". I went to the D52 GM 3/4 T calipers for the front, and have the OEM Nissan rear discs. So, I'm thinking a 1 1/8 MC is likely a good choice?
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Tahoe in particular, not on the hydro boost end no. I did do brakes all around on a Denali yesterday. It stopped fine but I still hated the pedal feel.
I'm not entirely sure why GM even uses the system on gasoline vehicles in the first place. There are so many others of the same size, different makes, that stop great with standard vacuum systems and less complication. Oh... the '07+ 1/2 ton GM trucks use a standard vacuum system as well, what gives?
So far, most of what I read is like anything. If a good system isn't set up right, or there's a weak link in the system, it won;t work right.
There's good availability and pricing for GM units in the mid 2,000's year range (Tahoe, Yukon, Silverado etc.) so if the hydro boost is not the problem area, what's your guess on what it is? The MC? If that's the case, I would look at a upgrade with a compatible MC from another vehicle. That shouldn't be that hard to find?
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I don't have a Service Manual that goes back that far and cant find it in the archive.
I can tell you on the 94 and 95 models the fuel sender unit is 1.5 ohms and the fuel gauge is 3.8-8.5 ohms full and 83.6-93.6 ohms empty.
Thanks for info.
With those numbers, they certainly made sure getting an after market fuel gauge sender is virtually non existent? Love my Pathfinder, but there's a reason to change things to a more universal parts availability when things need to be replaced or upgraded.
Given the OEM tach and gas gauge is shot, I would likely be able to replace all the gauges for slightly more than what it would be to fix the existing stuff, and have all new instruments.
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To be honest, its the system its self that makes it feel mushy, though not as bad as the older trucks. Anything hydro boost from GM has come in leaking out of the MC. 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks or vans alike.
In all reality the power is definitely there and it's a viable option... I just can't stand how they operate.
I was looking at the hydro boost system from a 2005 Tahoe. Have you much experience with that particular model?
It looks like new4x4r had pretty good results with the 79 Blazer MC, so maybe I'll have to find a MC that will bolt up to the Tahoe system.
I'm not set on any particular system other than the goal is to find a good system, or combination of interchangeable parts that is fairly easy to service and find parts if needed. Going GM is usually good when it comes to interchangeable and availability of parts, and a lot cheaper than Nissan OEM.
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Well so far I cut the little bullet nub off the brake booster shaft adjustment screw. Shimmed the MC out a bit, machined the holes a bit to get them to fit the studs, removed material off the mounting ears themselves, BLED THE MC, found adapters to go from 1/2"-10mm, bypassed the abs block and bled the entire system
Hey new4x4r, what did you use for a brake booster? You mention using a MC from 1979 Blazer - is that a pretty close fit?
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There are so many variables to mileage - tire size, ring and pinion gear ratio, tuning, whether your stomping on the gas, etc. etc. I've seen identical motor sizes in different vehicles and some have great mileage and some terrible, so what my gas mileage is won't really be the same for someone else.
I had a 4.3L in before this swap, and that was about the same as the original 3.0 but the 4.3 had a lot more torque and I had gone to 4.88 gears and 33" tires. So far, the Lt1 (5.7) is a bit thirstier than the 4.3L but not by a lot if I take it easy.
The problem is that with all that HP, especially since its like a new toy when I first had it out, it was almost impossible to resist the urge to stomp on the gas pedal.
I've entered into the next phase of the obsession and started to get into PCM tuning with some of the LT1 software. We'll see where that leads and I'll get an update when I get around to doing some serious tuning. Part of the reason I've delayed the tuning is that I'm considering ditching the OptiSpark distributor and going to a full LS based PCM and the 8 individual coils, which allows for major tune-ability over the LT1 PCM
From there I'm looking at a doubler setup with a 241 for reduction, and a NP205 (DSD), and it if makes sense (an doing a lot of homework on it still) going to a 6 speed manual T56 trans, which combined would give me double low gears for off road, and double over drive (the T56 comes with a final overdrive of .62 to .5) for the highway.
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Small Block Chevy Swap worth it?
in Solid Axle Swaps, Hardcore Custom Fab
Posted · Edited by V8path
The T56 plans are still under consideration. I've been looking at the Tremec TR6060 which is the newer version of the T56, and is stronger and there are better choices of a final OD gear ratio. The older T56's were mostly .50 or .56 which (on paper) puts me at 1,600 to 1,750 RPM for highway cruising. That's a bit low for the engine for efficient power and torque., and let's face it, these projects are not built for 100 mile per hour plus runs, but it would be nice to have great highway capabilities as most of us are hours away from good off road locations, and having the engine whining at 3K plus RPM's for hours isn't great for the ears or gas conservation.
This is one of those "once you start the swap", not finishing it becomes a very costly change of heart.
I'm going to need a custom trans to t-case adapter, clutch linkage, etc., and new front and rear drive shafts. Outside the custom adapter, is finding a clutch that will handle the weight and torque of a truck and 35" tires. The original T-56's were never meant for that, and from the research, the clutch is a major area to address if longevity and reliability is the goal. There's no point doing this unless it performs!
When this starts, the plan is to do the doubler and trans at the same time. A Pathy with 350HP, a /doubler/NP205, and 6 speed manual double over drive, would be a great thing.