bwd111

Update after changing cam sensor in distributor. I haven't had a problem since changing part that I found at junk yard.

You were 100% correct on the problem being the sensor camshaft sensor in the distributor. The wheel was also off and not making contact in the sensor.

I had a similar of cranking and not starting so I replaced the crank sensor or camshaft sensor people seem to call them both. Its located in the distributor and very easy to change. I went to junk yard and paid 15 bucks for 114.00 dollar part. Pull the cap and rotor off then take the two screws off the gold lid then remove the wheel pull the 3 screws holding sensor. No need to re time either as you are not messing with timing. Ive been told that 90% of ing problems are due to this sensor in the distributor.

Seems like the problem was the camshaft sensor located in the distributor. I went to junk yard and grabbed two camshaft sensors paid 15 bucks and chaged ou t the old sensor which was an after market and haven't had a problem since changing part. I ohmed out old part and ohms were very low compared to the two I pulled out of junk yard. I spent around 480.00 trying to find out the problem and all it was was a 15.00 dollar part. Now I have new fuel pump, ECM,fuel reg,ign switch with new key,new vac lines,new mass air flow sensor,ign coil,cap,rotor,new coil , ign module and TPS sensor.All which I replaced trying to find problem. Plus I bought used jeep liberty for 5k cause pathy was not running and I need something to drive. And all that was needed was $15.00 dollar camshaft sensor. Lesson learned

Where is the Crankshaft Position Sensor located? Ive searched online with no answers

Also found neg cable was loose and battery slides around. I tighten cable down and engine didn't die for a day but going to look at CPS sensor today. Still odd that sometimes when just power is on before statrting just a slight tap on gas pedal would make rpm gauge go from 0-4 then a rest of the battery makes everything go back to normal and engine cranks over.

Forgot to mention when RPM is going from 0-4 the check engine light comes on and the engine runs bad very bad until I pull the neg or postive lead off battery then everything is fine for about 4 miles then cycle starts again. What is the IIRC?

With the ign turned just to power on only I tapped on the gas pedal and the RPM went from 0 to 4 . Then I take pos lead off battery and engine will start then die down the road and RPM does the same thing. Where would be a good place to start for looking at RPM problem I saw today with just power turned on? Is there a sensor that controls the pedal as well?

Thanks for the photo. The mechanic told me that the tps side was good but has an open circuit on the idle switch in the tps. The pathy died on me again so I went and bought a jeep liberty yesterday

Sorry for the hard question

I have a 5 speed 95 SE and I noticed the engine shuts off random times and never constant. I unplugged TPS and I get the same symptoms when engine dies but I still have electric power. The RPM goes to 4000 rpm when TPS isnt getting voltage BUT engine cranks but wont start for 2-5 minutes. If take neg or pos off battery terminal everything is back to normal. So im thinking no power reaches TPS the question I'm asking is what send voltage to TPS.Also when engine died I grab my volt meter and there was no power to TPS sensor

Change the ignition module

Ohm out the ignition if ist more than 0.7 I would replace module or change it! Mine had the same problem and its fixed now after buying 72 dollar module

Would any one happen to know what the omhs are for the Ignition Control Module? I got a reading of .07 on the new module and the readings on the OEM module was 1.9 ohms. I was just curious

The part that was bad was Ignition Control Module

I pulled the passenger seat out and the ECU that is under the seat was a mecm-v277 ECU and both red and green lights were on. I turned the key the turned the screw clock wise until check engine light went out the I turned screw counter clockwise then went back to orginal position that I marked before turning. then both flashed at the same time fast then slow. What is the correct way to read codes? I also waited for both to flash three times then would the codes start to come in?

I was going to flash the codes today and hopefully the symptoms act up while driving. The rmp didnt start flutterling until I chaged the ingntion cylinder assy. But that happens at random times as well

Yes I have replaced fuel filter as well. Just drove home and no problems! But cant figure out why engine just dies then restarts and drives fine after a minute or two. Then cycle repeats in a day or two or two days fine then next day same problem

but electrical stays on. I have replaced MAF, Fuel pump, fuel regulator and ignition switch, fuel and main relays as well. Today the rpm would goto to 4000 when gas pedal was lightly touched but engine didn't rev to 4,000 rpm. But main problem is when driving the engine will just die while driving freeway streets just radom places then I have to wait 1-3 minutes to restart and this problem doesn't happen all the time just random times each day.well some days no problems at all. Would could be a possible cause of why engine would die then be able to restart after 1 -3 minutes. When I turn key I wait to hear fuel pump prime line it seems like the fuel isn't reaching spark when engine dies. I've also replace the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator and as mentioned before a new regulator

Remove the belt? Been fighting this power steering belt for 2 hours. What bolt needs to be removed/loosen to get the belt off