Leo98

How i read it, you are going to need those butterflies for your A/T to work properly. If i have been following along correctly. The jdm engine is RHd and manual transmission setup, your old enigine was LHd with automatic transmission. That is why the jdm engine doesn't have the butterflies and your old one did. Unfortunately you are going to have to tear down and install them.

Hey Canuck, I found this interesting. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18310-vq35-power-valve-riddle-w-answer/

I have learned to disconnect the battery + and - cables from the terminal to reset the check engine soon light. I fix the problem first, then disconnect the battery and see if the light comes back on or not, so far this method has worked for me.

When i bought my Pathfinder 3 months ago I noticed the MAF sensor housing had a crack/hole in the top of it. I didn't think the housing being cracked would have an effect on it by thinking it was a sealed unit and was just a housing case, but here i am 3 months later replacing it. Feels a lot better knowing it's not going to die while in traffic. I've heard mixed reviews on cleaning the sensor and also heard not to clean them with Q-tips, so i didn't try it that way, now i wish i would have just to see.

I knew I would be buying a new so I figured I would try the cleaning first, just to see what it would do. I also decided to buy new battery terminal connectors, so I had the battery disconnected for about 30 min; I clamped down the connectors and started right up with no more check engine soon light on.

Update: I tried to clean the MAF sensor but it was to far gone, i ended up replacing it and right before i did the check engine soon light came on, with a MAF sensor code. Running smooth but engine light is still on pointing to the MAF sensor code. Will it reset on it's own? Thanks for all the advice and tips.

It says it's in .rar format but when i click on the download button it then says it's an .exe file, I have winrar, but am sketchy on all those parts as an .exe file. I opened the text document and it said to mount the ISO. What is it? Here's the Installation instructions: 1)Mount the iso with daemon tools 2)Go to (Mounting Drive/decompress directory) NISSAN\FASTPRG\WIN2000\SETUP and launch setup.exe to install the base program of nissan fast 3)Go to your installed directory and run Nfset.exe Go to cd-rom setup and select drive1 and set it to the "NISSAN" directory in the iso you mounted/decompressed. Do the same with drive-2 and set it to "INF-ALL" and with drive-3 and set it to "AR-JP". Press ok 4)Run Nissan menu for the start menu or Nfmenu.exe in your install directory 5)Enjoy and share/seed!

Yes...I discovered it yesterday :lmao:and now going through the testing check list. I started today with spraying the MAF sensor with the appropriate cleaner. After reinstalling and starting i went to back out and it wanted to die, i let it rev for a sec and put into gear and not a hiccup since getting home a few miles down the road. I have another errand farthr later and that will tell me if it worked...Thanks

Damn you are right, i went back and reread the instructions and i did do the test wrong, i didn't touch the leads to the right terminals. But now i watched a youtube video and the title was "how to tell if your idle air control is going bad" If that were the case then is that what is happening to mine, it's getting ready to fail? Would that be why i don't have any codes for it?

I have been reading and trying to figure out on my own but now i need help. What the rig is doing is when i decelerate to slow to a stop and sit at a light the engine wants to die, it will drop to almost 0 rpm then I put my foot on the brake and rev the engine while holding the brake so it doesn't die. I can get it to even out after a few seconds of revving and then it will idle by itself. No problems that i can feel when in motion, only at stops. Sometimes before i take off it drops really low and then chugs forward and catches, then goes fine until it wants to act up again. So far i have taken the IACV off, cleaned and tested it by plugging back in and turning the ignition on and i can see the plunger move. I tested with OHM meter and was 0.00, I cleaned the throttle body, replaced the PCV valve while i had the intake off. I did spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter a couple months ago and has been running fine. The current problem is frustrating because i went to AutoZone and there was 0 codes. Could it be a distributor trying to fail? TPS? Thanks, i need some ideas or experience with this issue, please.

I agree...New plugwires.Looks like a cool place in the Summer but can only imagine what it looks like in the Winter.

I read a similar story on another Forum, and the guy said that he was coming down a Mountain and somehow his distributor became loose. He took it to a mechanic and he pulled the distributor then unbent the shaft and replaced a broken bearing. Does any of that make a difference in how you would diagnose the ticking noise?

I looked all over the internet for those hubs and I can't find anyone selling them. Nobody seems to be MFG them anymore. Personally, I would find another mechanic, or take the hubs, with your new bearing races to a machine shop or brake shop like Midas or even a different mechanic and have them remove the old ones and press in the new ones. Here's a couple videos to show how easy it is to accomplish. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X30Klfg4vhU Removal of bearing races. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIGgGICt33o Installation of bearing races with hand tools, not machine pressed. Good Luck!

Warn Industries https://www.warn.com/truck/hubs/hubs.shtml I bought the premium hubs for a '77 Ford I had after destroying a cheap set i got. Never had a problem with Warn hubs.