hawairish
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Posts posted by hawairish
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On 5/1/2024 at 2:18 PM, POONFINDER said:
also my pathfinder spins the front driveshaft, but my cv's dont spin. is that still a issue with my hubs you think?
Yeah, as Slart mentioned, this is bad. Recall any noise?
Can also lift a wheel and try turning the CV flange coming off the diff, or turning the driveshaft. Something else should turn.
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Procedure seems right from what I see in the service manual.
Got a 2nd fob?
Battery installed in the correct direction?
Are the metal tabs for the "+" side still intact and do they contact the circuit board?
Any visible damage on the circuit board?
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And here's what they look like with a bed resting on them when the in-tank fuel temp sensor is throwing codes and emission tests are due soon...
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General topic, maybe off-topic, but still PF love!
I've been hoarding LE wheels (9 of them so far) for a while and finally got around to slapping a set of them on my 98 Frontier. Had a shop in town strip them down, repair all scrapes and curb rashes, then powder coat them in "wet charcoal with satin finish". The results came out great so I thought I'd share the journey.
Started out with 17x7 4Runner wheels shown below. Tires were old (Fall 2016, installed early 2017) with only 4,100 miles and tons of tread left, but showing their age. I started a new job at the beginning of April which has me commuting again, so it was time to change them.
TownDawg helped me visualize (a la Photoshop) what the LEs would look like on it...
And with a little bit more drop (only 1" in the pic above)...
Truck's been undergoing a slow restoration for a while (body, paint, and glass done 2022, new tint and interior around the corner) so the plan was to get a set repaired and put new tires on them. All the ones I had have varying issues, but fortunately no major ones.
As much as I like the factory silver on the T4Rs and the LEs (both similar color as the original wheels), the color has always been out of place in my opinion. And for what it was going to cost to refinish each wheel (5 of them), it was actually more expensive to go with a factory finish than a powder coat ($275/ea vs $225/ea). So, bought 5 new tires and took my 5 crustiest wheels to the shop to scope color options. Was looking specifically for something that keyed off of the inset of the grille.
Found a pretty good match...
The results...
I also stripped down a set of center caps so they could be paint matched...not too bad!
Cut new adhesive for the emblems as best as I could...
Installed...
Just the right amount of stick-out, no spacers...
Kinda gray, kinda charcoal, kinda black...depends on the light I suppose. But they came out great! New lugs and lock nuts seal the deal.
LEs are 17x8 and the 235/55R17 tire is supposed to be about 27.2" diameter, but according to GPS speed it's much closer to a 26" (stock size). 27.4" tires should have offset the H233B w/ 3.9 gears (stock 3.7) according to my calculator, but I still needed to use the 18-tooth speedo pinion gear (stock 17) I had previously installed. Speedo's spot on now.
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Oh, and I only replaced the parts that were broken. I think I re-tapped a few threads also, just in case.
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Interesting. I never looked closely enough, but that seems like it.
That's what my cats looked like. I intended to replace them, but the kit I bought was total @!*% and effectively non-returnable. Lost a few hundred bucks in the process and just slapped my OEMs back on. Maybe one day when I'm not sour about the purchase I'll try replacing them again.
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Progress has been very slow. Kids' sports in full swing and I started a new job at the beginning of April. New focus had been getting my Frontier back into commuter mode. I'm dropping off a set of LE wheels for refinishing and powder coating in the morning, and new rubber by the end of the week. It should look fantastic...it better be for what I'll be paying.
Since last update, I built a new bracket and re-slung the engine. I didn't like that I could only use one bolt on it due to space limitations, but it creates a cantilever that holds fine. The intermediate piece is bar stock from the WJ steering shaft after I cut it down.
View from the bottom...
Engine hasn't fallen to the floor yet, so it must be good enough.
I also mulled considerably on the radius arm brackets. Wanted to get caster adjustment since the optimal angle varies depending on who you ask. OE caster is 3°±0.75°, but the straight axle community says 4°-8°. So, I'm targeting 5°, and the caster adjustment I did gives me ±2° range.
The final brackets...
My craptastic welding. Old Blue in the background to distract you.
And finally, actual results...
Finding the right caster (or really, camber bolts turned 90°) was a pain. The front FJ bushings use 16mm bolts, and the only 16mm caster/camber bolts I could find were the lobe style we use for camber adjustment on our struts, but they were all just a little too short. Anything else I could find that used a cam washer was 14mm and too long, except ones for a late-80's to early-00's GMC/Chevy trucks and vans which were a good length but still 14mm bolts. I ended up using 14mm ID x 16mm OD sleeve bushings to fill the void. Took some effort to get the slotting sorted to make the adjustment work, but they work great. Other hardware being used is OE Toyota.
I did not do a very good job of maintaining spacing on the brackets for the bushings. I had scrap bushings from a prior job to swapping out bushings on FJ arms, and used them as spacers, but the welding still tightened up on them. I was able to coax them to width without angling them out, except for the lower panhard mount. Just needed to grind down the sleeve for a few seconds and it's good to go, though.
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My reason for asking about any special features on your LE headlights is because there could also be a control module in place.
Long time ago a buddy had an Infiniti J30 where the headlights kept flickering or turning off random; would work fine for a while, then not work. I spent hours tracing the issue and eventually took a real hard look at a headlight control module under the hood. Took it all apart and found a couple solder joints on the back of the control board had hairline cracks. Resoldered it, problem solved. I know there were some premium headlight options, I'm just not sure what they were aside from leveling options. I haven't scoured the FSM to see what options there were.
In your case, you still may want to just swap bulbs and wait it out to see if the problem travelled.
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Mine didn't have the washer or mesh washer, and it didn't look like anything had been replaced previously...stock manifold and uppers as far as I could tell. I looked for those items, too. The upper had a lip that seemed to fit well into the manifold opening, and sealed fine when bolted together. Looked on RA and couldn't find suitable replacements, and sure as hell wasn't paying $20/ea x 4 items to replace items that weren't there and didn't seem to present a problem.
But, looking at RA now, I see a Fel-Pro mesh washer (p/n 61339) is on closeout for $3.33/ea that I don't recall seeing previously apparently because it only shows up in a search by OE p/n, and not by my application. Fel-Pro 60835 reads like it might be the washer ("Converter; Manifold To Converter") but it has no matching OE p/n and zero specs...it looks too small and of one OE p/n it does list, it returns as a match for the gasket that goes between the upper cat and lower cat/resonator.
Looking at a pic of the washer, it's hard to tell if it crushes; looks like it has squared edges. Frankly, I'm not even sure what the mesh accomplishes, but maybe I'll pick some up.
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I’d start by swapping the bulbs left <-> right and see if the issue travels. Inspect the wires for any issues. With a multimeter in continuity mode and lights off, you can try probing the low and high signals to see if there’s continuity, suggesting a short somewhere. Then, with test voltage/signal on low and high when on. Just both headlight sockets for consistency.
My guess (and lowest hanging fruit) is the bulb, maybe something odd going on internally…wild guess.
Does your LE have anything special about its headlights? I thought some had optional adjustment or different bulbs/lenses vs. SE models. Not sure.
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I’d advise against impacts unless you ended up needing to just shearing something on purpose. I prefer to feel those out, even stopping to reapply penetrant.
For the heat shields, there are a few screws that hold them on, so even if you shear a couple you might be okay. Obviously oil on a heat source is not ideal, but worst case might be a large hose clamp securing the heat shield.
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Even with the lower cat+pipes off, the proximity of the manifold/upper joint to the chassis still makes accessing all the nuts (6 per side) difficult. That’s where the extensions are needed, mainly for the ones at the top or towards the chassis.
I replaced what I could with what I could on hand. I think in one case that meant replacing a bust stud with a bolt after extracting the stud and re-tapping the hole (holes…pretty sure I re-tapped everything).
Can’t confirm if leaks are common. Mine seemed ok, but I did replace the gasket on the drivers side. I absolutely avoided doing anything on the passenger side. The heat shield blocks everything, and just gaining visibility to things seemingly required pulling the steering pump and reservoir, among many other things. Right now with my SAS project still underway, I have those components out and it’s still largely out of sight. I expect the coolant pipe also obstructs things, so that’d have to be drained. I’ll try to get a pic of things tonight since I have things cleared out of the space.
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I did everything from the bottom (3.5L). In fact, only way I could really even get up there was with the lower cats off (or resonators on some models).
Getting the head shields off the uppers was the tough part…a few 10mm are in very tight spots. Some sheared off due to rust. Penetrant wouldn’t hurt. Once the shields are off, you’ll still need/want socket extensions and wobbles to give yourself leverage below the chassis…working space is still tight.
Access to the RH upper O2 sucks. All others are easy (LH upper from the top).
I can’t remember if everything was nuts, but I want to say some were bolts. I know I sheared a couple on the drivers side and had to pull the exhaust manifold off to repair. Passenger side is a nightmare…fortunately didn’t have to remove that manifold and didn’t shear any.
Also, I basically needed to remove the entire exhaust system to pull the uppers off. There wasn’t enough slack in the hangers to pry things backwards, so I removed everything starting from the rear.
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@EricCR Forget OEM.
10x https://belmetric.com/m14x1-5-fine-din-6921-flange-bolt-class-10-9-wrench-18mm/?sku=BFD14X1.5X80YLW @ $3.54/ea
10x https://belmetric.com/din-6927-fine-full-wrench-class-10-top-lock-flange-nut/ @ $1.54/ea
Class 10/10.9 hardware, yellow zinc, OEM size and function (prevailing torque lock nut). Only real downside is they are not JIS spec, so they need different size wrenches than you'd normally use on the truck (18mm and 21mm).
Buy 10 sets because there's a price break that's less than a buck more (8 @ $49.92 vs 10 @ $50.80 before tax/shipping). Haven't used Belmetric before, but will be soon.
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Yep, one bolt per side.
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Camber bolts wouldn't hurt, but also probably unnecessary at that height/setup. I didn't use them until my SFD days.
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If I'm being honest, I'm brand agnostic for stuff like this. I have enough conspiracy theories in my head that prevents me from believing one part is better than another; and in many cases, they're the identical and made by the same company. My wallet tends to be my decision maker in those cases.
If you eventually plan to swap the bushings for poly, though, I'd keep it cheap. But that's because I'm cheap (I also run poly bushings in custom arms).
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Echoing the above replies. That "4WD" light is specifically a warning lamp for the system, not an indicator that you are in 4wd. If it stays lit, it means a malfunction is detected. Generally, the system prevents Auto/4H/4L engagement when malfunctions are present, so if you've not personally engaged 4H and 4L to feel the difference in crawl speed, I wouldn't trust the dealer's assessment at all.
In essence, there's a diagnostic pattern that can be perform on the truck using the ignition switch, the dial switch, and the transmission shifter to enter a diagnostic mode where the 4wd lamp will blink a pattern that corresponds to one or more fault codes. I highly doubt the dealer will allow you to perform that process, use a diagnostic scanner (a generic OBD scanner will not be able to pull these codes), or otherwise take it to a mechanic or dealership for inspection (at your expense). Truck otherwise looks to be in reasonable shape for age and mileage, but I'd strongly advise walking away if you're unable to pull the code(s), unless the vehicle is potentially acceptable for use in 2WD/RWD.
The reason is because this "All Mode" transfer cases uses input from nearly all other modules (ECU, transmission, ABS, for example) in order to operate multiple motors, pumps, and sensors. There are also dozens of potential fault codes, not to mention that multiple fault codes can be present, and not necessarily isolated to the transfer case system itself. Without knowing what codes exist, it's impossible to know the real cost of repair, but it can become substantial quickly (old parts, Nissan-only parts, electronic/electrical parts, difficult to access/remove parts, etc.).
If you're set on the platform and want 4wd, you can find Pathfinders with a part-time transfer cases that have a mechanical shift lever; they lack the Auto (AWD) function, but they also lack all the complexity and are significantly simpler and more reliable. Some SEs, all LEs (?), and all Infiniti QX4 with 4wd had the All Mode system.
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The newer Moogs will fit all the same, but the bracket/tab used to secure the ABS wire is different. The older trucks used a J-shaped hook that bolted to the arm. The newer style has a forked tab that a rubber boot on the line presses onto. If you take a close look at the pics on RockAuto, you'll see the difference. Nothing some cable ties can't resolve, though. The parking brake cables attach the same on both styles, noting that driver's side uses two tabs to attach the cable, but the passenger side only uses one bracket, but most RH options show both tabs.
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I'm not aware of any size differences, and I'm surprised to not see the parts weren't superseding, but they should fit all the same. The difference is probably the vibration dampeners that are attached to the bar. Only real changes across the entire 96-04 range relating to rear suspension were in regards to shock mounting, and even then 96-99 were the same style.
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23 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
This should be easy to test, though. Roll the window down, shut the door, wait an hour, then reach in through the window and hit the garage door button.
Our garage door openers clip onto the visor and have a battery inside, no lockouts whatsoever. I assume the idea is that if you have the remote, it's because you park the truck inside the garage. But depending on your neighborhood, and your tendency to park outside, yeah, I can see why you'd want that circuit dark when the key is out.
I'm wanting to test, but my truck is still apart enough (battery out, multiple sensors and harnesses disconnected) that I can't.
We avoid keeping the remote in our vehicles when they're parked outside, but otherwise, yeah, our primary vehicle is garage kept (except when a SAS project is underway, lol). I have smaller remotes that fit on keychains.
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9 hours ago, EricCR said:
BTW, @hawairish, not sure if homelink is always powered in R50s as they came from the factory, but they way I wired it (to the power saver interior lighting circuit) it cuts power after 10-15 min so it's not that bad. What I don't know is if someone forcefully opens a door (without the key and with the alarm armed) if the car will be dumb enough to "wake up". If it does, then there's still that risk you mentioned.
That was my assumption, too. Well, not really an assumption, since the Owner's Manual says it turns off after 30 minutes. But, because that function is seemingly tied to the battery saver function and not as a security measure, it's why I don't trust it. Per the FSM:
QuoteInterior Lamp/Luggage Room Lamp/Spot Lamp/Vanity Mirror Illumination
The lamps turn off automatically when the interior lamp, spot lamp or/and vanity mirror illumination are illuminated with the ignition key in the OFF position, if the lamp remains lit by the door switch open signal or if the lamp switch is in the ON position for more than 30 minutes. After lamps are turned off by the battery saver system, the lamps illuminate again when:- Door is locked or unlocked with keyfob or door lock/unlock switch or door key cylinder.
- Ignition switch ON.
- Door is opened or closed,
- Key is inserted or removed into ignition key cylinder.
The door opening is the main one, but I also think any appropriate metal object --key or screwdriver-- in the cylinder might also complete the circuit. This description is also specifically for when the battery saver mode is activated. It's not clear if this applies when battery saver mode is not activated, or even if the security is enabled. My thought is that anything that enables the interior lighting also enables the vanity lamps and Homelink. If true, that means just switching the dome light from Off or Door to On or pressing the door unlock switch will wake everything, even if the door is not opened (pretty sure the alarm still sounds if the door is unlocked from the inside after being armed).
Main thing for me is that there are just too many conditions. It should just be disabled when no key is present. I don't even like knowing it remains active for 30 minutes...why so long? Why not 5 minutes? I don't even want a dome light left on for 30 minutes.
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Correct, that 50 pin powers other similar accessories.
If I'm being honest, though, I have the Homelink and don't use it because of how it's wired. It's basically always on. It should have been wired to be on an ACC or ON circuit, in my opinion. Aside from being in plain sight, just takes someone breaking the window or opening the door to press the button and access to the garage.
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FSM says the harness (M62, white w/ 6 wires) is located on the passenger side, near the A-pillar. May have to pull the glove box to see would be my guess. The Smart Entrance Control Unit supplies the power for it (from pin 50, red w/white wire to M62) and is above the pedals somewhere. The FSM indicates that the harness that connects to the illuminated visor (R5, red w/ 2 wires) is the same harness used to power the Homelink transceiver. Everything should run up the passenger A-pillar.
Refs:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Pathfinder%2F2003%2Fel.pdf
EL-371: Homelink diagram
EL-101: vanity/illumination diagram
EL-522/523: main harness layout (M62 in cell F1)
EL-532: A-pillar/roof wiring locations
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4WD NOT WORKING
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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If your driveshaft spins and the CVs don't, then something's wrong with your ring and/or pinion. Maybe sheared the teeth off the pinion. Might be able to open the fill plug hole and peek through. Otherwise drop the diff and replace with one from a D21 or WD21.
Also, no need to start a new thread about the same issue. Your original thread in General was fine.