ACLoki1989

I am also dying to have a DVD drop down screen so I am thinking when I do the mod I am going to carefully nix the sunglass holder and try to splice a screen in its place. If successful pics will follow, if failed, it shall never again be spoken of. Since I will need to run the temp sensor to the console, and hopefully a video cable, I might as well get the dimming accessory power as well. That should be fun all in all. I came extremely close to buying the new console today (found one at an awesome price) but I couldn't figure out how to remove the damn thing without breaking it. I was hoping the screw inside the sunglass case was the keystone, but removing it didn't seem to loosen anything. Any tips on removal? I think I read somewhere else that I might need to tap into the spedo for something. Is this true? There are no fuel related readouts are there (average mpg, miles remaining on tank)?

I just added an '01 pathy to my family. I desperately wantt o replace my current overhead console with the version that has a digital compass built on. I know the mounts are all compatible and that the cover on my non-sun roofed pathy will snap into the switch spot of the replacement. Three questions are... 1. Do I need to run accessory power to the console or can I use the power that the map lights already have? 2. Does the unit have everything the compass needs built in or are there extra parts I need to snag from the donor vehicle? 3. Does the unit have the outside temp also and again what else should I snag from the donor to make it work? Thanks!

I wish the weather was more permitting to go try these things now. Freak snow storm here. Is it hard to adjust the rear latch? I never knew you could do that.

Theres definately some shaking of the truck when opening and closing. I almost feel like i am trying to tackle someone when I am closing it just to make sure it latches all the way. I wil try the blaster and oil tomorrow. Thanks for the tip. Here's another one I am not sure if I am unique with...closing the rear glass. On mine, I have to set it shut, then do something similar to a chest compression over the catch to latch it. Everyone else tries slamming it shut, which of course never works, but makes a very loud scary noise. So annoying.

The stock swing arm on my '89 has gone from resistant to open and close to damn near impossible. I have WD-40'd it, loosened all the mounting bolts (in case it was somehow tweaked) and nothing helps. I was ready to tear the thing off and just do a safari cage with the tire on top, but I have heard I could have leaking problems with my moonroof. I have seen some really cool aftermarket swing arms for the xterra with the third brake light but nothing for the pathies. The swing arm is in good shape and has not been involved in any scrapes before. Has anyone else had this problem?

My pathy is pretty much stock with some questionably pretty add-ons from standard auto parts stores. I don't really go off-road with it yet. Where would be the best place for me to start?

Let me know when the next mod day is happening, I really want to attend and help.

I have had a car totalled before (not the pathy) and kept it, they just wouldn't pay to fix it.

I used to work up there off Havana and I-70. An old friend of mine is the general manager of that Harkins. I did some projection consulting there. I am just off Broadway and C470.

I'd love to help with the lift and whatnot when the time comes. So excited to actually dig into things in my engine! -bounce- -bounce- -bounce- Whereabouts in the Denver area are you Trance? Oh, I love tearing things off and trying to get them back on, so long as they don't directly deal with the things that make the car move or stop.

Wow, thats some tenure. I wish I had your knowledge when it comes to my pathy. So many things I wish I could tackle with no clue or confidence to dig in.

1989 Maroon 2 Door. I wish I had gotten more cool driving pictures during the blizzard, but what can ya do...

Thanks for the help. Its nice having a more personalized look in my messages. :cool2:

Awesome. I would love to participate. I am fairly good with electrical but am lost on mechanical and desperately want to learn more. I just learned how to post pictures so here is my rig. This was of course the first blizzard last December.

Sweet thanks! I wish I had better pics on my work comp to play right now!

I would love to post some pics of my pathy but... For the life of me I cannot figure out how to post pictures. My avatar picture was a fluke that I now cannot replicate. 'really wishing I didn't have to ask this out in the open' :sniff:

Littleton area here. Newbie question, what is "Modding"?

When I was questioning whether I made the correct connections, I removed the tach from my old cluster and alligator clipped it independantly, it worked fine. The only test I can imagine at this point is to do the same for the new tach and see if I can get an accurate reading. By that I mean, any reading at all. Here's hoping!

I could have sworn that the wires were correct. The strange thing is that on a trace, the common ground connection for the three guages (oil, gas, tach) actually terminates to two different harness positions. At this point I am leaning towards the conclusion of my new tach being bad. I will have to give the installation another go before I can know for sure (last time I tried the swap without a multimeter ) Since I have to fix up both my doors first, my next go will likely not be for a while. Thanks for everyones help!

Moleskin huh? Interesting. Since I have tried putting various things in the track and failed, I was hoping to find a cleaner solution. If I can't, I will certainly try adding another spacer in.

Sadly I have been just lowering it more. I got sick of the Nissan pulley style regulators that kept breaking on me and actually replaced them with Saturn scissor style ones I had lying around. (Wife had an SC-1 that I installed power windows, locks and keyless on) When I installed the new regulators it got rid of the teetering front to back motion that you are describing, but the things still jiggle in and out. I have to take my doors apart to do some upkeep soon. I think I will try the felt idea unless someone else has had better luck fixing this. Thanks!

My 89 Pathfinder has developed two seriously annoying problems. I read one of them breifly in another topic, but never saw a solution. The only way I can describe the first problem is to say my weatherstripping has gone bad on my two doors. The result is a rattling window if it is in any position other than all the way up. I have ventshade in-channel visors which mean if the windows are less than two inches open, my windows are rattling against a hard surface. I have been quoted around $200 for new weatherstripping for each window. Is there another solution that I can try? If not, where could I find a better deal? The second problem is the one I read previously. Snow over the front cowls, turn on the fan, snow blown all over my interior. I know this is a fairly recent change in my pathy's behavior, I just don't have any clue what to replace to make it stop. Any help greatly appreciated.

I do see the little silver box on my old cluster. Do I need to transplant that to the new one for the tach to work? Could that also affect my fuel guage? I traced the three connections for oil, fuel and the tach. They all share two connections. I am assuming ground and power, then a control wire unique to each guage. Any of this make sense?

Well I finally got the correct harnesses and set in yesterday to do the swap-out. There were a few compatability issues and I ended up having to temporarily abort and put my old cluster back in. :furious: The main issues I came across were related to getting the tachometer and fuel guage to work. No matter what I tried I could not get the tach needle to move beyond a few jiggles up to 1000 rpm when the engine is started, quickly coming back to a rest at 0. I am hoping that the tach on my new cluster is not bad but I don't know what else to try. -study- Has anyone run across this problem? -thnkboutit-

Are the wires on the back of the clusters labelled or simply color-coded? If they are color-coded, would you know where I could find the key? Thanks! -bounce-