northbynorthwest

Saw the comment about measuring for skid plates as well. Any ETA on when those will be ready? Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

FWIW my (admittedly limited) experience with my 02 R50 is completely opposite to Kingman. Used to have a 92 Pathfinder with super stiff RS9000 shocks and I also felt that thing needed to go into 4Hi the second I even smelled the dirt it skipped around so much. Picked up a 2002 R50 from a friend about a month ago and I've been nothing but impressed by its stability on typical northwest BC rutted/pothole/washboard dirt roads. A couple of things that might play into that - most of the front end (struts, bearings, sway bar bushings, sway bar end links) was replaced this summer before I bought it, and so far I have always had my family (wife + 2 kids + 2 car seats) in the truck - I don't know how the higher spring frequency of an unloaded vehicle would handle. I guess what I'm saying is 1) make sure everything is good condition and 2) think about how much weight you will be carrying before going to stiffer springs (think unloaded pickup truck bounce if you don't normally carry a bunch of payload.) The truck "should" be able to handle "normal" BC back road conditions just fine at 70-90 km/h.

For clarification: Warn hubs (p/n 29091) listed for Pathfinders up to 2001 will fit on a 2002 as long as the wheels have been replaced, but "don't fit" because the stock wheel center bore is too small? Also, are there any experiences with strength/reliability of Warn vs Rugged Ridge hubs?

Check out the 4wdabc. Lots of wheelers in the Lower Mainland to talk to on their Facebook group. Overlandjeep.ca has a whole bunch of awesome videos showing what you can find when you start exploring the rest of the province as well Sent from my ALCATEL ONE TOUCH 6040A using Tapatalk

So accounting for the northern BC surcharge (Any selection is at least 500 km away so if it starts, runs and drives its worth 2 grand, right?), $3000 is probably pretty fair?

How much rust is too much? Had a casual glance at it, there is a little rust at the top of the wheel wells and along the frame rails but it "appears" to still be confined to surface rust. Anyone have any experiences to suggest that it might turn out to be worse than it looks? And for more specifics the truck is a 2002 VQ35 auto Last thing... how much would you pay for a truck like that? (2002 R50, VQ35, 260,000 km, some rust and a couple of regular maintenance issues that need to be addressed) I know geography is a huge part in vehicle values, but giving me a range will at least help me figure out if the value they are asking is in the right ballpark

Inspired by this http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/wasteland-survival-guide-engineering-greta-1344782/index45.html#post13513781 near perfect trail tool kit, I thought maybe we should start establishing a definitive list of fastener sizes in our Pathfinders so we can eliminate extra wrenches in our trail tool kits. So... it might take a while to compile, but when you go in tear apart your truck, especially an area that will leave you stranded if it fails, post up what size fasteners you find, along with any other details (truck year, part type, stock/aftermarket, and any clearance issues - whether you used a box wrench, shallow drive socket or deep drive socket) I'll go first: on my 92 WD21, nearly every bolt I have ever touched has been 10, 12 or 14 mm. I have never found "standard" SAE size fasteners on anything stock, but have used a 1/2 in and 3/8 in wrenches on some aftermarket lighting components and battery clamps. The only exception was... wait for it... 15/16 in on my power steering hose. I know that one because it was a gap in my off the shelf socket sets and I had to but a 1-off to get the hose out at JY. That socket needs to be shallow drive, even then I barely had enough clearance. So... 10 mm 12 mm 14 mm 3/8 in 1/2 in 15/16 in shallow drive as a starting point for "everyday" repairs, but I have yet to tear into the engine or suspension

I want to establish what everyone's favorite springs for all around ride quality are. Options given are based on the assumption that the "1.75" OME lift with 'trim packer'" that Rocky Road sells is either the .5" or 1" OME springs with a spacer. If I am wrong, please correct me. The reason behind the poll is because: a) nothing can change the strut travel length. You can adjust where ride height sits within the travel of the strut, but no form of lift actually increases wheel travel and between a SFD and Fleury's spacers, it is possible to achieve virtually any height lift you want depending on how much stress you are willing to put on CV joints Hopefully this can create a knowledge base for people to choose the best spring for their application, independent of the amount of lift they want. Feel free to include any other details (lift, tire size, extra weight, strut choice, rear springs etc.) in comments to make this as detailed as possible.

Hi all, WD21 owner here, might have an opportunity to pick up an R50, have some questions for the experts: 1) Where would be typical places to look for rust if there was going to be any? 2) Any maintenance issues I should expect between 250,000-275,000 km? (Truck currently has ~260,000 km it) 3) Can someone post up the GVWR? and I am correct in believing the curb weight is ~3900 lbs? Trying to figure out the gross cargo weight capacity... Thanks, Northbynorthwest

Reviving an old thread here because I have a couple of new questions specifically related to ball joint spacers... 1) It says in this thread that you shouldn't run 1" ball joint spacers on STOCK UCAs because they will crack the mount. AC says the 1" ball joint spacers are ONLY for stock UCAs - any idea why? Has anyone tried the 1" spacers on aftermarket UCAs? (I am aware that one would have to be very careful with regards to CV angles at full droop) 2) Nefarious.. (or someone else who is running the combination of .5" spacers and ultra-low bumpstops) have you ever measured the increase in wheel travel over stock to put a real number to it? What length of shock are you running and what is your resultant total wheel travel?

NVM - figured it out - had the assemblies reversed, switched them around and everything lined up. For those considering the swap, I'll do a write up with photos on the 2nd side. Pretty simple swap but hopefully will help avoid others making the same ASSumptions as me.

The assemblies I ordered include headlights, headlight buckets and retaining rings. Grille is a non-issue - I currently have no grille as a result of a deer hit on the front end. I'm having issues figuring out where the buckets bolt in - I was expecting the mounting holes to line up with existing holes in the rad support.

Help me out here - I ordered a set of Hardbody sealed beam assemblies for Rock Auto http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=364681&cc=1211049but I'm having issues figuring out how they line up. No matter what I try it seems I can't get them to fit the way I expected them to (direct bolt in.) 2 questions: Should the bolt holes line up directly or do I need to drill and create new holes? Am I missing any parts to complete the conversion?

Anyone in Canada found a source for direct replacement steel braided brake hoses? I know A/C sells them out of the states but shipping would be beyond unreasonable so trying to find someone (anyone) in Canada to supply them but I can only seem to find basic rubber hoses.

Just wondering what people have found to be the best brake pads for wd21s? I've heard some people have had issues with EBC stuff - any truth to the rumour? Any other brands of "premium" brake pads that you have had more success with?

I'm looking for good options for an SAS down the road... but Wagoneer axles are not easily or cheaply sourced where I live. So, barring a unicorn sighting, I need a more realistic axle choice. I have considered a Jeep XJ non disconnect dana turdy with a Ford 8.8 rear to match the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern...not really sold on that choice though. Any other REALLY common junkyard axle choices? My nearest u pull yards are 1000+ kilometres away so unless I want to pay someone else to pull it for me I need to be darn near guaranteed that my axle choice will be in the yard when I'm already in the area

Do I was driving down the highway yesterday, all of a sudden my clutch pedal was stuck to the floor, clutch engaged, truck in gear. Pulled over, pop the hood, hear a long slow hiss if some sort of pressure releasing. Clutch fluid level is slightly over filled so it's not actual leading any fluid. With the truck pulled over and turned off I rapidly pumped the pedal and felt it build up pressure again, was able to get out to shift normally for a little bit until it progressively loses pressure and I have to pump the pedal again. Long story short, my best guess is master cylinder is shot but want some second opinions, especially from anyone who has ever had similar problems. Opinions?

33x10.5 BFG Mud Terrain KMs on Legos, no lift. Didn't even have to trim with the narrow tire/rim combo, just removed all the various plastic bits, but I just installed them so we'll see if that holds up when the tires get fully stuffed off road or whether I'll need to get rid of some sheet metal.

Hoping you guys can help: I have a 92 Pathfinder with totally shot steering. I'm planning on ripping it all out for the Hardbody steering conversion, just wanted to figure out what the difference between the 'pre-7/92' and '7/92 & later' outer tie rod ends is? I know that the centre link changed ball joint tapers, is it the same on the TREs? I want to make sure I order the right parts first time around since I'm up in northwest BC so shipping the wrong parts back and forth isn't feasible. Can I use either or does it have to be the 92-and-earlier outer TREs?