TutorN1
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Posts posted by TutorN1
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Think of it as a big gas powered generator we have today.
Granted yours uses a combustion motor to turn the stater which makes a charge, & then makes the power you use when you plug in.
I don't mean it was a perpetual motion machine. Those, for lack of of a better way to put it, are a myth. They always need some force to get them started, whether a small push of a finger, or a light breeze.
There would have to have been something to get the motion started. Could have been a capacitor, or someone giving it a push. IDK?
We can't say it didn't work, but the question is how?
Tesla got a 3phase motor to run with just one wire going to it. We can't say it didn't happen bc it was to well recorded. Again the big question is how? You can make electricity do some very strange things, things that can baffle normal reasoning.
I am by no means an expert on the field, have only been around it, but I've been surprised by what can be done with it!
NT
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Yeah checked the wheel play couple of weeks ago, they're good. Planning on changing them out when I put manual hubs on anyways.
Could struts cause it? I have the factory set still on it. I can tell both struts and shocks are warn out.
Feels like your on a waterbed after a bump.
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Yeah just about all water. What I drained out of it had just enough anti-freeze in it to given it a green tint.
To answer your question about the shake it's just in the front. The wheel shakes just for a second after a bump. At 60 it's just till I reach about 67ish.
It's just wierd, & I'm trying to figure it out.
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But want to say thanks for all the help I had in getting this radiator and all fixed.
THANKS!!
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Just remember steering stabilizers can help reduce steering wear but mask problems.
If what is damaged is the stabilizer, it shouldn't make a difference.
Steering should always been in working order before having a stabilizer. They are not band aids.
That being said get some pics when you get a chance and I'm sure we can figure it out.
LOL!! I will get pics from now on!
I've just figured out how to post, I've got pics on my write up on how to change the thermostat in the how to section. Also in the members rides, too.
So there
But I will be doing more pics
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I know it's a no no, but I've been running the same cap. When that happened tho the whole top of the radiator inside was a block of ice!
I've come to realize that who ever had the truck last didn't take that good care of it.
There hasn't been any major problems, just a bunch of little ones. It's not smoking, knocking, or using oil. I can deal with the rest.
May start a new thread, but what all can make the front shake? My does when I hit a hard bump in the road, or while I'm running 60-70 mph.
CVs are new, bearings are good, balance & alinement have just been done, & no knots on tires.
Only other thing I've notice is the the rod that goes from one side to the other that the boot on it is busted to pieces. At this moment the best description I can give is
"The whatchamacallit, that goes to thingymabobber" real technical I know.
Want to say stabilizer, but not sure.
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Know this is bad over due but here are the pics of my radiator
Like I said IT BLEW!
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This is just a guess, but by the pics it looks to be a direct current motor, DC.
The only charge it would have to hold is just enough to get it to make a few turns.
Once started the motor would start to make its own charge. The brass or copper piece that you can see in the pic I think would work as a commintater.
There would be brushes against it as it turns, these would make a charge that would go into the winding of the motor. As it did this it would make the rotor of the motor turn, then wheels.
If that's how it works then it was a really a green car, needing no outside power or fuel.
NT
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Ok, so should be good then with 1.5 in the front then. 31s are what I'm looking at right now.
What will need to be adjusted later with HD springs?
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Yeah I am. Reason I said 2" is because from what I read that's the max of what the CV can take and still work right.
Really what I'm looking for right now is enough lift to put 31s maybe 32s on without it looking funny, & no serious rub.
The back right now I think would look alright with them right now, so might try the 1-1/2" first.
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Ok, this will be my first big mod to my truck. Reason being I can get material from work CHEEP!!
Figured no reason to look a gift horse in the mouth
Anyway, going to put about 2" in spacers on the front. Was wondering how thick of spacers I need in the rear?
These will be going on the stock springs for the time being.
I'm hoping to put some either OME or AC coils. They will be HDs to stiffin the ride, & support extra weight later.
NT
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Ok looked around on the member rides, & really like the light bars on top with the baskets. Think it's silverpath that has the lights all the way around too that I liked.
My question is this, how do run your wires from your rack to the inside of your ride?
Was just wondering about when I do one, if I'll be drilling a hole to run the wire to the inside or what?
This is not a project I'm in the middle of, but just wanting to know for later.
Thanks for any input
NT
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LOL!! My arm was killing me when I was done, but got it!
This just shows my hard headedness
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I'm writing this because I never could find any info on how to change JUST the thermostat.
First you will need:
A ratchet (I used a 1/4 drive)
A 10mm, 12mm, 14mm sockets
A 3" extension
Bucket or pan
High temp silicon or gasket
(Mine didn't have a gasket check for your specific model)
Time to do it in, it's a little bit involved.
First drop front skid plate, this will let you get to the bottom of radiator. Take cap off of radiator, then remove the drain plug on radiator. Catch antifreeze in bucket.
On top loosen the pulley on the top mounting plate, this is 14mm
Once this is done remove belt, & set it to the side.
There are three places where it's held on, one nut on the right, two bolts on the left. These are 12mm.
This shows where they are, couldn't get a good picture. Once this is off undo the ac bracket to get it loose.
You should be able to see thermostat housing with line going to it. There is screw holding the line, remove it to free the line. Loosen the hose clamp by the thermostat housing, then pull the hose off. It will look like this
Once off there is three bolts holding the housing on these are 10mm. Take these out, and the housing should come loose. Once off it will look like this
The thermostat will be held in the housing of the top picture, I didn't get a picture of it sorry.
Once out clean both halves. They will have silicone on both, scrape them clean.
Once done put a bead of the new silicone on.
I used this
Put your new thermostat in.
There is a copper tab on it, it needs to be on the top when you put it in.
When you go to put the housing back on it can only go one way, there is a tab here as well that will go to the top
You can see it on the very top of the housing.
Start to assemble finger tighten bolts back, and let set a few minuets. Then finish tightening bolt now.
Now reattach radiator hose to housing, and reassemble everything.
Once the bracket is back on put you belt back on, carefully tighten the bolt back on top. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN!! It will break.
Now refill your radiator with new 50/50 or your clean antifreeze.
Bled the air out of your system, and remount your skid plate.
Your done!!
Don't forget to clean up, and dispose of your fluid properly.
Hope this helps, & have fun -
Was wondering about wires too? Is there any one that does better than the rest? I've got one that I'm going to tune-up here in a few week & would like any input.
Thought it would go well in this thread
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Didn't know that about the hexo-mats, I looked them up. I personally like the look of them better than the weather tech, but that's just me.
Plus the price is a big difference too. Love the life time warrenty for me. I'm rough on my floors.
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I second that. If it's worth it to you by all means go for it. You can't put a price on history.Don't sell your friend just cause someone said the project might be difficult. Sell it cause your done and you want to move on to something else.
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Will admit the weather tech is pricey, but they work really good!
I'll check out those two for sure. I've got to have somethin with all the mud, & two kid riding.
I've got a cheaply rubber mat in the cargo area, but it slide around like crazy!
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The curse of the apathy strikes again
Someone told my wife that the mats went to 04, but it only goes back to 05.
Said they only carried your basic style mattes for my year model.
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It's a local store here, my wife went by yesterday to check on some for our van 12 T&C. They gave her a price of around 250 to 300 installed. Exact price not sure, but on line they are around 300. Then you have to get them installed, or do it yourself.
Going to call today & find out more. Just wanted to know if there was any point.
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I bled the air out of the coolant system Sunday afternoon. There was some, & it's blowing alittlebit warmer now. The heat gauge is still dropping a good bit when I run the heat on high tho. It looks like I'll be changing the thermostat soon as I get the extra time.
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I found a good deal on some WeatherTech digital mats, but was told they didn't think the would fit in my pathy.
I couldn't argue that, bc I wasn't sure. So far I haven't found anything that talks about any change in the interior, but was going to ask y'all.
There might be something that's not written about that changed.
I've got a pre-facelift 99 SE. The mats that I've found only go back to an 03.
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Yes, I've already been buggin some of y'all over in the garage
Everyone has been a BIG help, & I'm sure I will have plenty more questions to come.
But here's one
How do I post pics?!
I'm new to technology, so please bare with me.
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Haven't done this yet, so hello!
Just found NPORA. Have just bought my second pathy.
99.0 SE 4x4, it's completely stock!
Has 163,xxx. In really good shape.
Will post pics as soon as I figure out how
Another gas mileage question
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Ok, here's what I'm running into. I just bought a 99 R50 SE 4x4 with the manual transfer case, 3.3L with the auto tranny. It has 163,xxx on it.
I had before this one a 95 WD21 SE 4x4 with the manual transfer case, 3.0L with the manual tranny.
The 95 was knocking, and using oil, but I could count on it to get 18mpg, every time! That's on paper, not guessing.
My 99 tho the best I have ever got out of it so far is 14.8 - 15.
To say I was shocked would be a stretch, but was only thinking I might loose half to one mile per with the change from manual to auto.
I've read to put manual hubs on, but I was wanting to know if there really was that big of a drop in mileage between the WD21 to the R50?
Or did I have a fluke WD21?
The tires on the 95 were 31 BFGs T/A
The 99 is running nexems hwy tread size might be 30.
If I do the hubs,I've read that I could pick up the mileage to what I'm looking for.
I didn't have manuals on the 95, that's what's getting me here.
Any input?