TutorN1
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Posts posted by TutorN1
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Ok, found a 91 on CL and need some info. To say the least it's in ruff shape, but for the money they're asking is not bad ($700)
The problems, that I know of right now:
1) needs a rebuild/ new rearend
2) the reverse is out (rebuild tranny)
3) guys said he's not a machanic when I asked if the PM work had ever been done.
As of right now the mileage is unknown, still waiting on some info from seller.
So what kind of work/money am I looking at on this thing? It already has a strike against it for me being an auto, I perfer a 5 speed.
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I thought my ears were burning
Yes I do have one that I started building up.
It still needs the steering linkage figured on robbing some parts from a honda, or another Pathy to build a long section.
Also will need the pan hard drop in the rear.
The part I'm not 100% on is the line up of the holes on the strut towers. They should be right, BUT I can't say they are until they are on. I had nothing to go by on the line up, & they blocks need to be finished as far as grinding goes. BUT I WILL WORK WITH ANYONE ON THE PRICE BECAUSE OF IT!
Now to the qustion of can it be done, the answer is yes, but the question I started asking was should it be?
If you are going to be on road 99% of the time, with no real wheeling in the other 1% the straps should do fine.
If your wanting the most out of your rig a SFD is the better bang for the buck.
Yes it drops the transfer case, so you don't really gain any clearance "at first" but it gives you the clearance to put bigger tires on, plus then your able to still run the 2" spacer blocks. With them you can gain around 6" of lift after the SFD, bigger tires, and then the strut blocks.
It just depends what you want to end up with.
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Got in mind of building these to go on the spring perch to hold the jw springs from the link above
Here's a pic from another thread on here, sorry can't remember who, it's in the R50 section. Gives an idea of where the sit, and how they work. Also gives a nice view of the pan hard drop I'm going to start in a few weeks.
Feel free to ask questions, or give any thoughts on how to do it better.
The pic on top is a SFD from krfabs. That's the one that got me to thinkin I could build my own.
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Figured I'd update where I'm at now
Got my towers all welded up, got some grinding, and machining left to get them to finished hight.
Not looking bad, for a first time build. Just hope I've got all my holes where they need to be.
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Yepper that's 3"
The tower tube looks bigger cuz I had them stacked in the pic.
Started laying the holes out for the plates on them today, going to have to go with a 4.5 center hole to fit my tube. Maybe over engineering, but would rather be safe than sorry.
Once I get those welded up, I'll move to building the parts for the rear. It's a slow go, but I'm not in a hurry.
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OH, ALMOST FORGOT!! Big thanks to DustinP for all the help!
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Figured it was time to post what I've been doing.
This is what I've got so far, all I lack on getting the front SFD kit finished is the strut towers. Hope to have them finished sometime this next week. Once they're done I'll start getting all the stuff built for the rear lift.
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I'll check it out first thing in the morning, all my stuff is at work.
Thanks for all the info, what I love about NPORA. Everyone's willing to help if they can
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No, not enough to really to notice. The last was, last week...?
That's why I was thinking ac drain line, but I'll check the other too. Can't hurt to check.
FYI Sonic ice cream is half price today, I'm working on getting in shape! Round is a shape!!
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That really is a help, it gives me a place to start looking.
I didn't clarify much at first, was preoccupied drying the stuff I had sat down there. Soaked my range bag
!!Anyways, it's the passenger side floor board. Mat is dry, just the carpet is soaked. No smell of coolant, just water. Been running the act a lot, and have been on the road more the past couple of weeks too.
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Just noticed it today, but my floor is soaked!
I done a quick search on how to clear the drain line for the AC but no luck. Anyone got any pointers. I can blow it out, but just need to know where it is.
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I've found a Carr EXP3 light bar on CL here, but it's coming off a Cherokee. I've looked, and can't find if it will fit the 99 pathfinder.
Anybody got one, or know if it will?
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I have to agree with everyone else, the prices you got were outrages. All the parts I've replaced on my 99 have been factory parts, so after 14-15yrs it time to replace. The work your needing done isn't rocket science, a good backyarder can take care of it. (If I was closer I would
) I've replaced most everything you've listed, and might have around 400-450 in all of it. That's also with parts that has LIFETIME REPLACEMENT. So if something does fail I've already paid for it, just save your ticket.
I had a 95 that I talked myself into selling because of needing work, and want to kick myself ever since! I still see it running around.
Anyway, that's my two cents, and if I can help feel free to PM.
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Sorry, what I ment was he raised his jeep higher! He was all ready at least 3" before. I think he's at 6" or better! If still has them I might can get a used set of lift springs.
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AWSOME! I looked at some of those, but weren't sure if that's what I needed.
May check with a guy here who just lifted his wrangler, again. He may have some from and old lift I might can get.
If not 200 for the rear isn't bad for a lift.
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Anybody know a part number for the jeep lift springs? I've looked a few different sets, but not sure which ones I need.
Found a set of the F-350 shock yesterday for around $50 so I can get them anytime.
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Man yeah, that helps!
I do remember reading about using F-350 shocks before, you have to mount them upside down. I'm going to make all the parts I can myself, nothin against Steve, just trying to do this on a TIGHT budget.
I'll put a spacer in for now, then may get some iron man springs later on.
Hadn't thought about my lines, I'll call and get some prices at a place here. They can make any lines in house. (Made some for a bike build I helped on)
What about bolts that I'll need? Anybody remember what they are?
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I've tried a search before this, but didn't really find what I was looking for. I remember reading how someone built the parts for their steering when they did a SFD. I've built my blocks, and wanting to get all the parts done before I start.
I'm going with 3" if that matters. I'm wanting to get this on this winter. Any info would be helpful.
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No I haven't cleared it yet, I was thinking it had just come on when I cranked it after I put the new distributor on. I got to asking my wife about the day it quit, and she told me she thought the check engine light had been on sense we bought it.
So it's not new it's from when it went out.
I'm going to go get it cleared this week, it just needs to be rest is all.
Can you unhook the battery to clear the codes?
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Got the new one in and it's doing great, but my check engine light is on now. Went by to get the code pulled again to see if there was something else after it was running that was showing.
It's still showing the same code tho p1320. Is there a rest that I need to do or is there something else wrong?
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Went and bought a new distributor on my way home today. Swapped it out and it fired up the first time, is running better than before. Was idleing at 1100-1200 rpm before now at 800rpm.
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Please let us know if the distributor fixes it!
Mine just started the same thing this week, I've replaced the cap, and rotor still no good.
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Well after checking all I could on the fuel I found all of it was good no clogs.
Went up to the parts house, got them to come pull the codes. It's showing
Code: p1320
Ignition Control Signal Circuit Malfunction
CKP sensor or CMP sensor has failed
CKP or CMP signal is erratic or missing
Ignition coil condenser is shorted
Ignition coil primary circuit is open or shorted
Possible fixes
Replaced ignition distributor assembly (replaced rotor & cap today)
Repaired distributor wiring
Replace ECM
Replace ignition coil(s)
Replace plugs (done a week ago)
Cleaned engine wiring harness connectors (cleaned best I could with a rag and brush)
Replace ignition module
That's what I've found out this afternoon. I've replaced, cleaned, & checked all I can think of.
Both sensors, and ignition coil are dealer parts, and can't check on them till Monday anyways.
Any info on the problem? Maybe a quick fix that I'm missing?
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Fuel pump is good, let's just say the back seat is going to smell like gas for alittlebit
. Filter was stopped up to the point of no air going through at all, even with a blower.
The coil I just don't know where it is. But I guess that's next on the list.
When it gets fuel it try's to run, just can't find what's stopping it from moving.
Any ideas?
WD 21 questions
in The Garage
Posted
Never mind the boy just sold it.