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Everything posted by elbpf

  1. I really like this company: https://www.calmini.com/
  2. I definitely did mine within that limit, but it may also depend on where you live. This was also my first engine rebuild, only had experience with general mechanic work before this, so if you have that kind of experience you should have any issues. The specs and information isn't too hard to find for it either. The big things are going to be pricing and time frames for taking the block and heads to a machine shop, getting a quote for new rings, gaskets, etc. I had them bore out the cylinders by .004 of inch and bought new pistons as well, but that might not be necessary depending on your situation. I just had them clean my heads and machine the valves but the rest of it was in good shape (I did replace the lifters as they were tapping, and I was in there already). Obvious things like timing belts, water pump, etc. but sometimes you can find decent kits for these things. You can generally price this stuff out before you get started to get a pretty good idea if it will be within your price range or if you want to get involved with it. Generally speaking it is a good idea to include some of the expenses you won't know if you need to replace until you brake the engine down, just in case they do need to be replaced, such as pistons, etc. Think about other stuff as well, since you will be into it, like: clutch kit and flywheel (if manual), transmission mounts, naturally engine mounts as well, etc.
  3. I have seen rebuilt engines in the past for between $1,300 and $1,500, but I rebuilt my VG30E for a little under $2,000, which included a few of the other bolt on items that the rebuilt units don't usually come with. The woodruff key slot in my crankshaft was chewed up and unfixable so I had to buy a used one as well. Anyway, not sure what a fortune means to you but I didn't those prices were too bad. That was about 6 or 7 years ago as well. If you have the time and tools (or want a reason to buy more tools) then it's a lot of fun and a great learning experience.
  4. I didn't deal much with bumpers, but I really like Calmini products for steering and their 3" lift. http://www.calmini.com/
  5. What tests have you done to determine there is no spark to the plugs? Also, which plugs are not getting spark, or are none of them getting spark?
  6. I put some Calmini torsion rods on my 93 and they worked great with stock everything else and at stock lift. If you want a lift than I would recommend new shocks, torsion rods, upper control arm, etc. (For the front). You can raise the front with these torsion rods on other stock components but it might wear them quicker and it will mess up your camber, wearing your tires unevenly. http://www.calmini.com Calmini will sell the parts individually or as a kit, but I don't think they sell compression rods. I would probably visit a junk yard for these and just make sure the other front end components on the donor appear to be in good shape (no major accidents).
  7. I had to rebuild my engine a few years back. I would adjust the timing and a few hundred miles down the road it would be way out again. Tearing into it I found that crank shaft keyway was chewed up and it was allowing the crank timing sprocket to slip out of the keyway. I had a mechanic change the timing belt and water pump shortly before that and it was the first time the belt had ever been changed, so I assumed they messed it up. I'm curious if this is a common thing with this or maybe there are a lot of people out there taking channel locks to their Crankshafts.
  8. Good advice my friend. Hopefully I do it right and don't have any issues.
  9. Perfect, thanks Terranovation! I think I'll leave mine off for now and see what happens since I do have some newer speakers.
  10. I will try to attach some photos but I have an extra wire coming off the Alternator's terminal that connects to the battery (This is a small wire in additional to the wire that goes directly to the battery). This small wire is only about three inches long and appears to go into a small cylinder that is also mounted to the Alternator housing where the ground wire is attached (the wire is broken so I am not 100% certain where it is suppose to go). Any information or advice on this would be greatly appreciated. I have searched everywhere and cannot find anything, and I am not even sure how to search for something like this. I am installing a new Alternator and I want to make sure I do everything correct to make sure I don't ruin the new alternator. Thanks. I have installed the wire and small cylinder to the new Alternator in these photos to demonstrate how they were mounted on the old one. I also placed the end of the wire near the Cylinder where I think it might go, but it was not necessarily near the cylinder like this when I pulled it out. However, I am unable to locate any other connection that appears to accept a wire like this. https://goo.gl/photos/113aHk7eroJxjb8WA
  11. Awesome, thanks. Do you remember about how much it cost. I'm sure it's different at every shop, but just to get an idea. Sorry to read you got t-boned, that stinks! Hope everyone is alright!
  12. Has anyone ever replaced the rear bearings without the special tool that the manual calls for? Not able to figure it out yet. If not has anyone been able to locate the tool for purchase or rent? I tried to post a picture in here but having some trouble with that also. Any help info on this would be awesome, thanks!
  13. I actually just did mine a few months ago, and I agree with the included instructions being worthless. I don't know that you can take the guts out of it, but you can take the cap off (6 hex bolts hold it on and there should be a gasket also). You do have to take out all the factory guts up to the bearing lock nut or the Warn hub won't fit. Not sure if it is necessary but I did put the snap ring back in after I put the Warn main section on. Then put the cap on it. Mine works great so far. Unfortunately, I didn't get any pics of it before I put the cap on. Sorry about that.
  14. Awesome, thanks for all the info. I actually was able to pull the diff. out alright. I know what you mean about those LCA bolts needing to be reversed but I was able to avoid taking that off altogether. I had to drop one of my torsion bars and it scraped the oil pan a little but other then that it rolled right out. I'm struggling to get the oil pan to separate from the block so I thought it was the plate in front of the flywheel that was getting in the way. Any tricks for getting the oil pan off with damaging stuff?
  15. 93 Pathfinder 4x4 MT I need to replace the oil pan gasket cause I did the gasket wrong the first time. I'm hoping I don't have to remove the flywheel and the plate that sits between the trans and engine? Does anyone know if I can drop the pan without going through that? If you want some background, I rebuilt the engine and was a little hasty putting the gasket on. I also wanted to be extra cautious so I put a little too much gasket maker in the corners where it meets the rubber end gaskets. Lesson learned the hard way unfortunately.
  16. I have a leak at the collector (new Headers, where the two sides come together and go into the single pipe). Does anyone know of a sealant that can be used for these, without having to replace pipes or other parts. I would love to be able to just squeeze some sort of high temp rubber cement or something over the leak and call it good for a while? Any ideas or quick fixes welcome on this, thanks.
  17. So, I finally found the problem. It was the Throttle Position Sensor causing the high idle speeds. Turns out I had to unbolt the TPS so I could freely spin it past the position that the bolts would allow it to go. Then I started the engine and actually turned the TPS until it read 0 ohms. Apparently this allows the ECU to reprogram the TPS so you can turn it back to the position for the bolts to hold it and still maintain the 0 ohms at idle. Once I did that and got the idle speed back to normal, I could then set the timing with the timing light. The engine runs great now so I assume I got the timing belt installed correctly and the ECU is still reading code 55 after three or four full test drives. Thank you all for your input on this.
  18. So, I have done a little more research on this and I have found that there is a ground wire that attaches to all of the components that I am getting errors for. I have gone through the diagrams on the FSM (thank you very much for directing me to that, very helpful), and I have found some diagrams that show a ground wire, but I am having a hard time locating exactly where that ground cable is. I have a ground cable (small metal mesh cable) that is currently attached to the passenger side fender and is broken, hanging, and I don't know where it goes. I was wondering if this might be the one I need, and if someone has a picture of theirs that they could post, so I could see where it goes, I would greatly appreciate it.
  19. The idle never did actually come down to the normal speed, so I did set it while it was idling high, partly hoping that might be bring it down. I bought a new TPS and if I remember correctly the ohms only go down to about .65 or so (before the rebuild I was able to get it down to zero). Based on the error codes I am getting and the fact that I can't set my TPS down to zero anymore leads me to believe that I have my timing belt off by a tooth or two. Not sure if that would cause all those errors though. I also double checked the belt three and four times to make sure I had it in correct, but I guess I could had some of the marks off. I have a friend that works at Delta and he has access to some factory type manuals/guides, but I will download the one you mentioned to see if it is any different.
  20. I completely rebuilt my engine (VG30E) and I have it all back together, but it idles high and it sounds like I have some valve tapping on the drivers side. I hate to run it too long, but I did get it warmed up enough to pull the following codes from the ecu: 11 - Crank Angle Sensor Circuit 21 - Ignition Signal Missing in Primary Coil 43 - Throttle Sensor Circuit The Crank angle sensor (as I understand it) is built into the Distributor which I bought brand new from Nissan, and also have a new Throttle Position Sensor. My Idle Air Control Valve was bad so I replaced that as well with a working part (10 ohms). I have also set the timing with a timing light. None of which has really made any difference at all. Other then the valve tapping and the high idle the engine sounds great. I have read that sometimes the computer needs to be reset, but I am not sure if this is true for my engine. I am also not sure if I possibly need a new ECU, or if there is something still off with my timing (considering the valve tap). Any info or insights on this would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

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