brycap

Lol mine is usually the Pathy or sometimes Cathy the Pathy. Occasionally the Pathfinder or dumpy because my aunt who I got her from used it to push some steel fence posts out of the ground and bent the bumper so the fog lights are cocked in a little. Together with the sad eye headlights she looks a little retarded but I felt bad calling her dumpy all the time with it being such a good truck despite being abused severely all it's life and that's when Cathy came about. But my new vanity plate when I move to NH is probably going to say Dumpy. As my aunt says "Good truck runs good"

This is how I feel whenever I drive the Pathy. Well I can't seem to get embedded video to work so here's the link http://youtu.be/RoysQe-2HS4.

Turns out it was a bad wire. It's running much better now and I think I'm getting better gas mileage thanks to the tune up and using NGK plugs instead of the mismatched set of autolites that were in there. Thanks for your help. Hopefully I can keep her going for another 100k miles or more I'm at 193k now and drive about a 1000 a week. Next project new radiator and change the timing belt while I'm in there.

Thanks for the reply. I was looking at the FSM and realized that I could get to those without pulling the plenum I'll check them after work. I'm going to try replacing the wires tomorrow.

I think the fouled plug was cylinder number 3 (middle cylinder passenger side) I should have been paying closer attention. Do I need to pull the intake plenum to check the injectors? If so I assume I need to replace the gaskets? I'm going to change the wires and preform a compression check tomorrow.

Last weekend i was driving home from Vermont and all of a sudden my truck felt like it was running a cylinder short. I stopped and checked all that i could on the side of the road and had to continue my drive home. The next day I filled her up with fresh gas just in case the gas I had bought in Vermont was bad. Still stumbling so I replaced the plugs, rotor, distributor cap and PC valve. One of the plugs was badly fouled this seemed to fix the problem but the next day on the way to work it started happening again not as badly as before but still missing a lot mostly when its working going up hills. Additionally this happened at all RPMs and only really once the car warms up and goes into closed loop mode I assume. Yesterday I checked the timing it was closer to 20 degrees so i backed it down to about 15-17 since it seems to jump around a little. This helped on the drive home but it was still stumbling every once and a while going up hills. When I got home I tried adjusting the timing further to like 14-15. On my way to work today it was still stumbling maybe a little worse than on my way home yesterday. My fear is that I skipped a tooth on my timing belt but I'm not sure. I have checked all of the vacuum lines and the air filter is clean. And there are no codes (just 55) on the ecu right now. Sorry for the long post I want to give you guys all of the details. If anyone has any ideas of what to try next that would be greatly appreciated she's my daily so I really don't want to have to take her to the shop.

Yesterday I had my pathfinder inspected and failed because of a bad lower ball joint on the passenger side. I have searched the forums and cannot seem to find a consensus about what manufacture makes the best replacement ball joints. From what I can find it seems that Moog used to make quality parts but their quality has declined in the last few years. What brand do you guys use? Should I be looking for replacements that have zerks or are zerks really only required for older style ball joints that use a metal on metal bearing surface?