Fatso1234

This procedure worked for me last week. To access the switch within the door, you pop off the larger part of the arm rest around the window switches (not just the switch and not just the closest trim). It took a couple tries to get the reset to work. The switch was just a black button that doesn't really "press in". Afterwards I lubed the track with some silicon spray.

I had a similar problem with steering wheel vibration. I got an android app called "vibrations" that uses the accelerometer in your phone to measure vibration frequency. By holding it against the steering wheel and measuring the peak frequency and using the speed, tire diameter, and final drive ratio, I was able to determine that it was a drive shaft.

I also have Warn hubs and bought 1" spacers from the link in the first post. They are really nicely made, but the ID steps down for the hub centric "lip". With that, they wouldn't fit over the manual hubs. I got a friend to machine the lip off on a lathe. Since the Warn hub doesn't taper until ~1.6 inches from the hub face, it still mounts (mostly) hub centric. No vibration probs. If you're ordering, I would specify no "lip" for the fronts. I think you would have to have a pretty thick spacer before they wouldn't interfere.

I thought I'd update this in case it helps someone out in the future. I was able to access some more connectors to the rear/right of the TC. Put some dielectric grease in them and sealed the ends with RTV. I was finally able to drive in the rain for an extended period of time yesterday and it seems to be fixed.

Here's a pic of the rear springs. I guess the AC coil has nearly 8 wraps, if I'm counting right.

Here are some dimensions I measured tonight when starting to install an AC 2" lift in the rear. Originals on a 2002 LE: 15" length / 5" ID / 0.512" coil thickness / not flat ended (therefore the OD is about 6) AC springs: 15.25" length / 5" ID / 0.630" coil thickess / not flat ended If I can figure out how to post a pic, I took one, but the original has 5.5 wraps and the AC has almost 7 wraps Hope that helps. I can update this with the lift amount and front spring info when I get there.

I was wondering if something like that might work. Fresh water isn't very electrically conductive and I'm a bit hesitant to spray salt water in case it permanently makes it worse. Things are pretty tight down there and it's hard to access the wiring and connectors. Part of what I was wondering is if the connectors are best accessed from above (by removing the console, which i doubt) or below. I did read the service manual so I think I know a bit better where to look, but it doesn't say exactly where the electrical connectors are located.

I have a 2002 LE with the all-mode 4x4 system. I think that's the ATX14A transfer case. When I drive in the rain or it gets wet the 4x4 short out, which needless to say, is frustrating and kind of defeats the purpose. Here are the symptoms: 1. 4x4 light is on. 2. ATP light ( that indicates that the transmission is not locked in park) will glow dimly in P, but transmission is parked. In 4x4 low and Park, it glows more brightly. 3. In Auto mode, there's a buzzing noise from under the vehicle. 4. Self diagnostic mode gives a 1 long and 4 short pattern indicating "2-4WD shift solenoid valve circuit is shorted or 2WD switch of 4WD shift switch is shorted." 5. It seems to dry out and fix itself relatively quickly (several hours). There are two electrical connectors near the transfer case on the driver side that I was able to disconnect. I put some dielectric grease in them, but it did not solve the problem. Does anyone know where this short might be occurring? Any other ways to diagnose? Thanks.