djratlif
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Posts posted by djratlif
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As soon as I get it home I can let you know. I have a need for manual lockers, and the grill/lamps up front. Other than that It would all be spare stuff for me. From what my buddy said it has 33's on it as well with aftermarket wheels. I have to look at those as well, but i can't stuff 33's yet so they'd be up for grabs as well.
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Well then it's settled, I am going to buy the truck and see whether I can get it running well enough to plow with. If not I will pull the plow and salvage whatever parts that I can. The plow will be on the pathfinder before next snow season arrives.
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I just found an older D21 pickup that has been used as a plow truck the past few years. I can get the truck and plow for $500 total so I know I can get my money out of it, just wondering if anyone here had put a plow on their Pathfinder and how did it handle it? The plow is a small blade, maybe 6.5' wide but without the heavier/upgraded torsion bars I wouldn't want to break anything. Thanks in advance, Derek
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Just did this yesterday, very very happy that I did and that this write up was available. The hole in the frame bracket was about 1.5x the normal size allowing the bar to slap around in there and make an awful clatter. Thanks for the info, any longer and I fear it would have been the end of the bar and possibly causing an accident.
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Fixed the strut rod bushings on the passenger side today, and had to weld in some new metal where the rod had wallowed out the hole. The truck was making a clicking and popping noise in the front end especially noticeable when braking or accelerating rapidly. I decided after three months of driving with the noise to take a look after seeing the write up in the "How To" section. This is what I found, sorry about the bad pics
This is the sleeve that was around the rod. Just made it through the sleeve and started on the rod. The rod was salvageable, with only a few dings in one place. The bracket on the frame however was not in as "good" shape. Luckily a buddy is a welder and happened to be in my garage helping me. After cleaning up the frame bracket and removing the old cup looking pieces that were tacked on, we cleaned up the old washers to use as reinforcements on each side. No pics of the process because my hands were greasy and everything was wet from snow (we got about 2 feet today alone). Here is the finished product, slapped some black spray paint on for some protection as well.
Now its time to do the other side along with all 4 ball joints and driver's side sway bar link.
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That looks fun, just imagine the possibilities. I can see my little Frontier tearing up a sand dune right now...
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Just put on some Goodyear Authority LT31x10.5R15 and they are doing me just fine. They are not nearly as nice as a good set of Firestone Winterforce though in my opinion. My 2wd Frontier was an animal in the snow with four of those
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I got the Champagne/tan color with a redneck black strip on the bottom.
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NY used to test emissions for the inspections, did they change it?NY has an emissions inspection still, but the only thing they inspect is whether the on-board monitors have all reset, ie. o2 sensor, evap system, egr function, catalyst function, and that there are not any DTCs stored in the ecu. This is all done by plugging the vehicle into an inspection station. There is no actual meter that reads the emission output at the tailpipe like in other stricter states. Also, this emission inspection only applies to vehicles 1996 model year and newer as the computers at inspection stations only read OBDII systems. My Pathfinder had a new inspection sticker without any problems. All thanks to a friend that overlooked the blown shocks, almost blown out ball joints, tore up brake rotors and pads up front, missing catalytic converter/exhaust pipes, dripping power steering lines and numerous other oil/trans fluid leaks. Man, I think I still owe him a few beers for that one...
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I am not saying emissions will be better, in fact they will be worse if I'm not mistaken. It will however trick the computer into working the way that you want performance and power wise. The downstream O2 sensor has to read less than the upstream sensor or it will trigger a CEL for ineffecient catalyst as Kafike stated about the sentras. So by pulling the downstream sensor out of the main stream of the exhaust it effectively reduces the amount of oxygen going past the sensor as it would if a catalytic converter was there. This is just a trick to get around the emission test here in NY where the CEL is the only thing that is used for emission inspection. However, as I mentioned before, if you are in a state with the "sniffer" devices that are placed in the tailpipe during inspection this will not help. It doesn't work like a catalytic converter does to reduce emissions, it hides that there is a problem with the emissions. Hope this helps a little, D
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I had to do this with my 2000 Frontier, I then had a low catalyst efficiency code spring up. Solved that by buying a set of spark plug anti foulers from napa for $6. These anti fouler plugs then are drilled to receive the downstream sensor, effectively removing it from the exhaust stream enough to trick the sensor into thinking the catalytic converter is working fine. Sorry for the brief explanation here as I'm currently surfing the net at work lol but it is explained online in several other spots if you search for it. This won't help if you live in a state where the "sniffers" are used in the tailpipe for the emissions inspection either. Helped out immensely here in NY though.
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Saw something mentioned about fires in another post, so I searched and found this thread. Man am I glad I did. The plenum in mine was full of leaves and other crumbly combustible goodness, along with the blower motor itself being filled to the top. The heat has gotten much better, along with peace of mind for me. For only taking 25 minutes on my lunch break I would highly recommend doing this on your rig if you haven't. Thanks again guys.
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Threw on some Goodyear Authority 31x10.50x15 tires on, way better than the old and dry BFG All Terrains I had on. Awesome traction so far.
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Mine just dangles as well, previous owner must have snapped it off at some point and neglected to fix it.
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Blocked the vacuum line between the intake and fuel pressure regulator with a screw and tape, obviously because they didn't know where it went. I just removed the screw and stuck it back on the regulator. Also had used what looked like hot glue for wire insulation on the top of the fuel sending unit, and a hard wired power wire for the pump from somewhere up front I haven't even tried to locate out of fear of what I'll find. Radio was a mess of tape and sloppy wiring connections, the custom welded exhaust hanger was broken and the muffler laid the rear axle housing. Also seems like they left some "extra" wiring in the front from some aftermarket fog lamps they removed when it was sold. The inner fender was also cut and rolled up like someone needed more room. I can't tell if they were removing a starter, making more room for oil filter removal or making room to remove broken manifold studs??? Crazy people and their jerry rigging
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I've been looking at doing the same type of upgrade to my lights, but I have a few questions. Do the HID kits have high and low beam still or does it only function on one setting? Also, anyone know if this is legal up here in NY? I want to avoid hitting a deer (or moose/bear/any other critter) like I did with my Frontier. My poor little truck barely made it without being totaled and don't wanna repeat scenario with this Nissan.
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My defroster doesn't work at all
previous owner didn't take care of the vehicle at all. The rear defroster, wiper motor and lock actuator are all out of whack. Gonna have to look into the wiring judging by the "awesome job" he did wiring the fuel pump I just tore out. -
Figured I should add something to the forums after taking so much from here recently. Yesterday I was leaving my driveway and the engine just stalled out like it was out of fuel. Suspecting that I was out of gas I filled it up and started it again. Life was good... for a mile or so. After waiting a few minutes I could restart the motor and drove it back as quick as I could. After looking under the hood this morning and doing a few tests I found that the fuel pressure would be 36 psi for a bit, but if it ran a while longer the pressure would suddenly drop and kill the engine.
After lifting up the carpet and removing the cover (which was missing three of the four bolts), this is the beautiful sight I laid my eyes on.
It looks like one of the previous owners was a serious redneck when it came to fixing things.
This is what it looks like under all of the silicone/hot glue mess that was there. Looking at all the wiring and not seeing a good way to fix the existing setup I went about drilling out the bottom of the studs and removing the oem wiring attachment points.
This is where I was drilling to remove the studs on the inner side of the sending unit. After removing the stock attachment points I was left with rather large holes for the wires to slide through. To make a tight fitting seal I used some extra vacuum hose I had laying around to go around the wire like a rubber grommet.
That is the outside view.
This is the new inside view before I replace the pump and strainer. I plan on soldering the connections and shrink wrapping them so I don't have any problems later on. Also chopped off the unprotected butt connectors in the first picture as well. They wouldn't last long when I sink this in a mud hole later on. I'll keep updating as I get more done. The pump won't be in until early next week so if anyone has any better ideas I would gladly accept some input and change the design up to work better.
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I saw the same thing while researching the proper fluid for my 2000 Frontier 5 speed. Seems like these stick transmissions like GL-4 but the GL-5 will eat away at the brass parts from what I have heard. Amsoil makes a good replacement that I have been using for a while.
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If you want one contact me, I wont blow you off like the local dealer.Thanks for the offer, just found a stock replacement at a decent price. The brand is International Muffler Co and the whole muffler and tailpipe assembly was shipped for under $67. Couldn't pass it up.
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Here at the Chevy dealership I work at we will cut you a key as long as you bring in one for us to trace. What you do with the key is your own prerogative...
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Borla Stainless Steel Cat-Back Exhaust System for WD21
Production dates 08/89-10/95 (90-95 model years)
50 State Legal.
1 Million Mile Manufacturers Limited Warranty
2 inch diameter, 3 inch tip.
$415.00 (MSRP $515.00)
+ ship insured (about $20 give or take)
(compare that to $375 for a new stock muffler.)
They have two in stock.
I tried to get a price on this from the local dealer and he said they were all gone last month, must be he didn't want to deal with me anymore haha I wanted to replace mine as it is shot from the manifolds back. There isn't a real cheap replacement I've found yet either
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I've always used anything name brand with a good warranty, and easy exchange policy. As for grease zerks, they are a definite plus. When grime or mud gets into the bearing surface while in service the only way I know to flush it out is pushing the old out with new grease. Rockauto always has a good price, but the exchange when they give out takes a few days for turnaround and shipping.
If this is a backup or project truck, it can be worth it. For a daily driver I would check local and buy lifetime warranty if you plan on having the rig for a while. D
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The easiest way I know to find out is to get a set of calipers and measure the sway bar where it is clean. this should give you the bar diameter on your rig. I know with GM products at the dealership I work at they throw different sway bar sizes at nearly identical trucks otherwise. Hope this helps, D
Coil Spring Spacer Option
in The Garage
Posted
Just ordered myself a set of these for Monday from a local vendor, I'll post pictures and measurements after I install them next weekend.