djratlif
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Posts posted by djratlif
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Too bad we live so far apart, I'd snatch that up in a heartbeat. Cleaner than most the 2005 vehicles up here with all the road salt. Plus I love the 2 door
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I have a set of Authority tires as well, 31x10.5R15. I drove them all last winter and loved every minute in the snow. They seem quiet enough, although my exhaust leak is so bad I can't hear much anymore anyway. Pretty good in the rain as well, no hydroplaning even at 70-75 mph in downpours. Overall for the price I couldn't be happier.
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I had to access the starter mounting bolts from underneath the truck on the passenger side. Took me a minute to get the right combination of extensions/swivels/sockets to work them out of there. With all the wires detached beforehand and the bolts removed, I had to wriggle the starter out from the top. After about an hour of wrestling with it, she popped free and I was able to start fighting to get the old one in again haha.
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I have a gas chugging monster, 12-15 around town nursing it, forget double digits if I'm hammering. Did get about 17 mpg the last trip down the highway though.
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This is the only pic I have of the Genuine Nissan one I got last October. Not an up close one but it shows what it is. And this is just the grill guard, I couldn't get the outer loops to go over the headlights they were all sold out when I went to order.
Way back before I got new treads and fixed the "lazy eye" of a headlight.
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Mine is nicknamed Patty, and she's a smoker for sure. Always coughing and blowing smoke everywhere...
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From what I can see the factory grille guard that I bought is kind of like a damage multiplier, not really armor as it should be. The bottom pivots off the frame and the top just attaches to the bumper, so it just swings back into the radiator/grille instead of protecting like it should. However, I love the look and it provides a decent place to sit when you forget a chair lol
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I found this with mine as well, every once in a while the wire will ground on the frame and my oil light will come on. Scared me the first time it happened right after I changed the starter.
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I checked both sensors while I was sitting at work, and I have replaced all vacuum lines within the past few thousand miles when I did the engine swap. The engine swap is the reason I think I have a wire issue, I figure with all the movement in the engine bay knocked a connection loose or pinched a wire. I guess its time to Ohm out some wires and see if there is a broken one, and check connectors to make sure they are all good.
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So I have been slowly getting after my Frontier now that the snow is finally gone here in Upstate NY. The truck runs beautifully except once it gets warmed up, and throws a MAP sensor/ Barometric pressure circuit fault code. I have replaced both the MAP sensor and Solenoid, (at a pretty penny I may add) and the code is still there with a serious drop in power when it gets up to temp. With the truck running I can plug in my scanner and see that the MAP sensor is reading the same all the time when I when I look at the live feed data. I am now assuming there must be a break in the wire or something that would cause the sensor to read the same all the time. Is there something else that could be causing the issue or is this a logical place to start? I am horrible with electrical diagnosis and could use any input anyone can add at this point. Oh yeah forgot to mention its a 2000 Frontier KA24DE engine, with a 5-speed trans. I would post this on another forum but I always get better results here, seems to be a way better community here than on other forums I have tried. Thanks again, Derek
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Looks like the steering shaft will have to go then. Heading out to spray it down on lunch to hopefully free it up a bit. Going to get after it by the end of the week if all goes well. Thanks for the tips
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I'm currently in the process of gathering parts to do the exhaust from the front to the back of my truck since it has rotted away almost completely. It's a 1992 Nissan Pathfinder 3.0L 4wd. The right side manifold has plenty of access and room to work, should be a pinch I figure. After looking at the drivers side manifold however I can't see how to get enough room to get my tools in to remove it. It looks like pulling the a/c compressor and the intake collector off will free up some room but it seems excessive for just a manifold replacement. I am thinking maybe through the wheel well with the tires off I could gain slight access, but I don't know if it'll be enough to get to all the bolts needed. I've been soaking the bolts with penetrating oil and contemplating where to start. If anyone has any tips they would be appreciated as I can't have it down too awful long being my DD. Thanks ahead of time, Derek
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Jumped the solenoid with a screwdriver and the help of a buddy. Sprang to life again like the day I bought it. Next replaced the starter with a Napa re-manufactured unit as it was the best price, and so far so good again. Now it looks like I have a broken wire somewhere between the MAP Sensor and ECU or between the Barometric pressure switch/solenoid valve and ECU. It never ends......
Thanks for the help with the diagrams and tips/hints guys
Derek
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I tapped the starter already while my brother held the key to the start position and nothing still. Had to do it on the pathfinder several times before and had it work. I am thinking the solenoid may be stuck on the starter although I'll have to jump it to be sure. Just thought maybe a relay was in the circuit somewhere. Thanks for the help guys
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Pre-Engine Swap/post deer accident
After the long winter of replacing the engine and repairing all of the damage
I'll start off with a little background information about the truck. 2000 Frontier, KA24DE, 2WD, Regular cab, Manual transmission. I've had the truck since 2007 with 140k miles on the clock, now its had the engine replaced 5-10k miles ago and has ~225k on the truck. Since I changed the engine it was starting fine and having no troubles for the first few weeks, then after some more miles were put on it the starter would not work. Hit the switch and nothing, no click, no crank, just the lights on the dash dimming slightly. Pop started the little thing and brought it home to charge the battery hoping it was that. Still nothing with a full battery.
I've tested the clutch interlock switch, the ignition switch, and battery. I am wondering if there is an ignition relay somewhere to be tested or anything else I am missing before I pop off the starter to test it. Hoping some of you are like me and collect Nissan trucks with a little more experience in repair. Any help is appreciated, Thanks, Derek
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I just saw it posted up this morning on Facebook that Lokka will be giving away a free lokka every month on their page. They said they will be posting rules on the contest in the next few days. I figured it would be cool to win one so thought I should share so someone here might win. I could really use one of these things, 4x4 is kinda useless without lockers...
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These things are classic, rugged, pure awesomeness in vehicle form. If only I had the money...
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Just to update, I have been driving this daily since the repair was made without an issue. I have not swamped it in water or mud yet, just a bunch of snow/salt/sand/water mixture.
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I have a tank that only holds 15 as well, the owners manual says it should be 21 gallons or something but it certainly doesn't. Ran it out of gas when I thought I had miles left to go.
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After rebuilding mine I still have no gas gauge, unfortunately I don't know how to repair it either.
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I would check the sliders as mentioned before, the pins get stuck and the caliper can only push on one side of the rotor.
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the black was originally connected to the short blue/red stripe wire. When I got done it connected straight to the ground wire from the pump. A word of advise if you do plan on rebuilding it, use PTFE coated wire if I remember correctly. The gas will eat most wire insulators from what I've heard, and bare wires in the tank are a no-no.
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Search Fuel Disaster and you will find my thread with all the pics I have
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Glad to see somebody could make use of the write up I did on mine. The sending unit and pump assembly is pretty easy to rebuild with materials around the shop/garage.
Lokka special for Nissans
in General Forums
Posted
Just saw it posted the other day on the Lokka facebook page that they are having a special on their Nissan lockers. Looks like its about $100 off with the discount code. They don't make one for the H233B axle, although they do make one for the front of some models... like mine. Seem to be cheap enough, although the job to install looks rough.