Superkirby

Got everything ordered tonight. I ordered Gates everything. Hopefully it will be here Thursday and I can start working Friday morning before work. I figure it will probably take me 2 or 3 mornings of work since I only have 2-3 hours at a time. But I'll get it done. Thanks for the help. Vince

One other question, sorry. Do I want the idler pulley or the tensioner pulley? What I thought you were talking abut was the tensioner pulley that tightens the belt going to the AC.

Thank you very much for all you help. I will get everything ordered this morning and so hopefully it ships tomorrow and then I should have it Thursday. Precise1, based off your description I'd bet it's the idler. I was talking to a buddy and he asked me to describe the noise. Best I could come up with was trying to rip a cat in half. All that said, I'm still going to order the whole shootin' match. I planned on changing the timing belt and water pump in the spring anyway. I have to change my thermostat before it gets any colder, if that's even possible. I don't know when the belt was changed last, so might as well get it done instead of draining the radiator twice. I changed a timing chain on my 72 mustang back when I was 15 trying to get the thing running. That was almost 15 years ago. I seem to remember it being pretty straight forward, just tedious. I realize there's more to this, but it seems to still be fairly simple, just a lot of time. Is that correct? Anything special I should know? I know I'm supposed to mark the timing gears before pulling them off to get everything lined up right when I put it back on. Anything else I need to know? Any special tools? Thanks in advance. I appreciate the help.

Looked around on Rockauto. I can get the gates water pump and a different brand belt that comes with the seals and has a better warranty, plus the bypass hose for $65 and change before shipping. I don't know about a 5% discount code, but I'd be ok with using it if someone wants to share with me. I'm going to order the parts probably tomorrow. I actually just got the thermostat a couple days ago and haven't had a chance to change it yet (I have almost no heat). I was wondering about idler pulley but it's seems awfully loud for something like that. I guess I should check that out. Or... I just looked and I can get one from Rockauto for 13. Maybe just tack that on as well.

I think its my water pump that has started making a lot of noise. It doesn't sound good. I thought it was my power steering pump at first, but closer inspection and it appears to be coming the water pump. As I understand it, if I have to change the water pump I might as well change the timing belt. I was going to get this kit. Is it my best bet or can I get better/cheaper parts elsewhere? http://www.ebay.com/itm/94-95-Nissan-Pathfinder-3-0L-V6-SOHC-VG30E-Timing-Belt-Water-Pump-Kit-/400441521876?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1995|Make%3ANissan|Model%3APathfinder&hash=item5d3c2cb6d4&vxp=mtr Thanks.

I don't think I can access the terminal to tighten it. The wire is corroded about a quarter inch, if that, from the connector. I'm thinking cutting a terminal from one at the scrap yard with several inches left and splicing together will be my best bet. I'll take pictures tomorrow to better demonstrate what I'm talking about.

Is there a place to get the terminals? Would it be better to find a connector from another vehicle and splice it together? There's several wires that are pierced, just one so far that's causing problems.

I think I finally figured out where my problem is coming from causing my rough running. There's a couple wires that have been probed at some point with a multi meter. Problem is they went through the jacket and tore it up pretty bad, so I'm assuming it's corroded. I can move the wire around and here the engine change when it's running. So what I need to know is, how do I get the wire out of the connector? It's the yellow wire running from inector #2, at the plastic connectors above the passenger valve cover. It's the left side connector, where the wires eventually run back to the ECM. There's 8 wires in the connector, and the middle of the connector is a different color plastic (yellow I think?). I need to take an inch or so off this wire and I suspect all my problems will go away. Is there a way to get it out of the connector? It looks like the middle should pop out, but without a lot of prying and risk of breaking something I so far haven't gotten it out. Can anyone help? I can try to get a picture if needed. Thank you for your help. I feel like I'm finally about done with this problem.

That's what I was thinking so changed the connector. Still nothing. After playing with wires - literally, I was trying to trace the yellow wire off the inector back to the plug and essentially ended up moving them around a little - it worked great for the last few days. Finally last night I noticed driving home from work there was a hint of a stumble creeping back in on occasion. If it follows suit like it has in the past, it should be an on and off problem today and pretty much a constant issue after that. The new harness should be here tomorrow or Tuesday and then will get it changed out and see if that helps.

I read somewhere that the only difference between injector colors is the spray pattern. What I read said Nissan spent a lot of time playing around with different spray patterns to see if they could improve power or gas mileage with something simple like injector nozzles. The different color dots differentiate the nozzles, and as long as you have all the same color it won't matter. Anyone know if this is true?

Didn't hear it run. It's already pulled out and sitting on a pallet. I haven't got it yet. I'm still trying to line up someone to give me a ride in their truck to get it But I'm trying. I wanna get it though.

First off, Vividkid - your Pathy in your picture is awesome. I want that one. But anyway, I found a wiring harness at a junkyard. Well, specifically, my dad found it out in WY at a junk yard. But for $40 plus shipping it should hopefully take care of my problem. I hope. I plan to swap the harnesses and then I'll try to pinpoint the problem and replace the wire so I have a spare. Just in case. So that's where it's at. I'll hopefully have it and get it swapped out in about a week. Thanks for the help I just might win.

Thanks guys. I found a used harness for $40+shipping. I'm going to pick that up and change it first and if all works well I'll pick up the engine if it's still available. But I don't want to spend all my money on the engine and then still have to spend money on something else to get it fixed.

I've been looking for some used engine parts for my 1995. I found a good running engine from a 1994 for $220. It seems like it would be worth it for the parts but before I pick it up I want to make sure that parts from a 94 will work on my 95. Can someone please confirm this? Thanks.

I removed the MAF and cleaned it and it didn't seem to make a difference in anything. It looks to be in acceptable condition as does the wiring to it. When I first narrowed it down to the #2 cylinder, I found I could disconnect all the injector connectors one at a time and #2 was the only one that didn't change how it ran. Changed the injector first. Still the exact same. Changed the connector and again, still the same. This injector has a white/red wire running to it and a yellow wire. I believe the W/R wire is common to all injectors and the yellow is #2 specific. After I was done changing the connector and nothing improved, I was trying to remember what briefly made it better in the past, which was taking apart and cleaning the plugs up above the passenger valve cover. So I moved to those. The yellow wire runs into the lower connector. Pulled them both apart to inspect for dirt and damage. Didn't see anything. Looked at the back of the connector to check for wire damage to the yellow wire. None that I could see. Put them back together. Decided just for kicks to start it up. Sure enough it started up, the CEL went off right away and all was better. Idle is smooth and consistet, blip the gas and it quickly responded, etc. Basically it ran like a v6 should when running on all 6 cylinders instead of 5. Through all this I've concluded my issue about has to be either the connector or the yellow wire. But which one and how do you tell? Better yet, how do you fix it?

And if you want to help me push a Pathfinder off, that would be great as well. Ok, so it's not quite that bad yet, but I feel like I'm running out of patience for this thing. I've been chasing the problem that's causing the "Fuel Injection Circuit" code since shortly after I got this thing in May. I've narrowed it down to cylinder 2. I've changed the fuel injector and the injector connector. I've also changed the TPS, cleaned the MAF, and taken apart and cleaned all the electrical connectors. The only thing that has helped some is taking the connectors apart. Put them back together and it runs great for 2 to 50 miles. If it's not the injector connector, then it would leave me to believe that somewhere the problem is with the wiring in the fuel injector harness. Would that be correct? Working on that assumption, I've been looking all over trying to find that harness. It's possible I could rewire the harness, but wiring scares me and I don't have the luxury of the vehicle being out of commission for more than a day or two. So yeah, trying to find a new harness. I can't find one anywhere. I called a couple of junkyards somewhat close to me and they don't have anything. Don't know where else to look. If someone can help I would appreciate it greatly. You can tell me I'm barking up the wrong tree. You can tell me where to get the harness. I just need some help. Vince

Thanks. I have downloaded the FSM and have been trying to study it as much as possible. I had to wait until I got paid again and then bought a decent multi meter. I work second shift so I'm going to start trying things this morning to see what I can figure out. A buddy of mine that's pretty good with Nissan/Datsun engines told me he was guessing TPS, EGR valve, MAF, or something around the IACV, though I would have to check exactly what. Could be the sensors themselves or wiring to any of them. I'll also check the wiring to the injectors. I'll post results once I find the problem.

If anyone cares, today I got some cleaner and sprayed out the MAF sensor. While I was at it I used some electric contact cleaner and disconnected and sprayed out the connector for the MAF sensor, the back of the coil, connector behind the coild (unsure what it's for at the moment, sorry) and the four connectors above the passenger side valve cover. I reconnected everything, cleared the codes out of the ECU, and started it up. I didn't have any codes and it ran smoothly. After about a minute of idling the CEL came back on, though the idle was still smooth. Shut it off, checked codes - EGR function (new code, but also the EGR is new in late May) and the code for the fuel injection circuit. Cleared codes again, started it up and no light. A couple hours later I left for work. When first started the CEL was on, drove about a mile and it went out. All was great for about 10 miles, then the light came on again. It continued to run smooth for about 10 more miles, then began to stumble on occasion, but it didn't last long. The problem was also intermittent coming home from work. I'll check codes in the morning but it seems like it has to be something I messed with today, right? I'm thinking MAF maybe but don't know. Is there a way to specifically test the MAF to see if it's the issue? Where else should I look?

Awhile back I asked about changing fuel injectors. I'm getting code 51 - Fuel injector circuit. I checked the injectors as best I could, and ultimately changed the one I thought was causing the problem. Either I was wrong, or it's not an injector specifically, and instead a wiring issue or something along those lines. Not sure where to go next. I've been setting money aside to buy a bow for hunting, but at this point I think I probably might be better off to put it into the pathfinder to get this figured out, and especially to get it running better before winter rolls around. So here's my questions - first, is there anything else it could be? I read on one sight that a guy claimed it was his MAF, even though he was getting a code for the fuel injectors. Possible? Next, When I was looking at the injectors once I had the intake off, it's pretty obvious that the previous owner had played with this as well. There were two different types of injectors under there with two different colored paint dots. Is there anyway to find out what the engine is supposed to have, and how do you order specifically those colors? And last, depending on what I decide to spend, is it worth it to try to find the wiring harness for the injectors from a junkyard somewhere? Sorry for all the questions. I can usually do the work without too much of an issue, but the diagnostic part isn't really my strong point. Thanks for the help.

I guess what I wasn't sure about is whether I could pull the manifold and still run it? If so that's not so bad. I looked at the services manual and it says to change the injectors there's a whole list of parts to pull/remove. I figured it would take most of a day. Yesterday I was looking at it and it seems like I should be able to just remove the intake itself and get at it. I'll have to pull the plug wires as well but that should be it to get the manifold off. I did check the 3 passenger side injectors and all 3 were right around that 12 ohm mark, so that's good.

Are those OEM or aftermarkets you picked up? One of mine doesn't work and the other the lens is broke so I want to replace them. OEM looks expensive but I don't see why I couldn't just find some close to the right size and figure out a way to make them work?

How do you check ohms on the ones under the manifold? Or do you just stab the wires wherever you can get to them? Sorry for the newb questions. I'm, well, kind of a newb.

The injector I ordered has a pink plastic top, as do the ones on the Pathfinder now. Is that what I should be looking for or is there something else that determines if I have the right one or not? I went out and listened to the injectors I could reach using a long ratchet extension and I could hear all of them clicking. But then it was idling great and no problems. I took it out and drove it around for awhile and couldn't get it to kick out so I'll leave it until it does and try checking again. I keep hoping it's just some gunk in the injector somewhere and it's working on clearing itself out and I won't actually have to replace it. *fingers crossed*

Haven't tried it on standard 2 lane road. I live on a dirt road and if I try to do a U-turn I can make it a little over halfway and have to back up. It's not like Austin Powers bad or anything like that. For the comfort driving it down road and overall feel to it, it's a trade off I'm pretty happy with. If I can get this injection thing figured out I'll be thrilled with it.

Hmmmm... I hope I ordered the right one. I didn't realize there was a difference. I'll have to look. I'll download the service manual and see what I can find. I'll also check the wiring. If I find it to be in a lead or something similar, do I have to replace the wiring for the whole injection system? Or can I replace the wiring for just one injector at a time? Thanks again for helping. I'll read a service manual for awhile.