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aley
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Everything posted by aley
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Since the remanufactured rack comes with the inner tie rods, I hopefully won't need the correct tool. If they're not installed (or aren't installed correctly) I'll probably make do with a pipe wrench, with rags and duct tape to keep from scarring up the inner tie rod. Thanks to everyone for their insights. I understand a whole lot better now how the entire thing goes together. This is the first truck I've worked on with rack and pinion steering, so it's a new beast to me! Dave
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The entire subframe is slimed with oil from the leak, so I imagine I'll start with lots of degreaser. :-) I suppose I'd worry a bit about the longevity of a salvage yard rack, especially the boots. Did you replace the boots on yours? $40 sounds a whole lot better than $300. :-) XPLORx4, thanks for the detailed steps. You make the process sound plenty simple, and probably saved me breaking my clock spring, which I hadn't even considered. :-) Any suggestions on removing the inner tie rod ends? Will a pickle fork work, or will that just damage them? I'm not clear on what the parts guy said about "inner tie rods included," but if I go with the reman rack I guess I'll find out. :-) Are the bushings a dealer-only item? I've seen various other threads where they contribute to sloppiness and cause a clunk when the wheels are turned, so I guess I ought to go ahead and replace them. Thanks, Dave
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The rack and pinion on my '97 SE is leaking. It's not a huge amount yet, five or six drops in the driveway after sitting overnight, but it's picked up quite a bit over the past couple of months and I don't expect it to stay small. I also just discovered a torn boot on the passenger's side of the rack. Is there any reason I should try to reseal the rack rather than just replace it? My parts store quoted me just short of $300 for a reman rack assembly, complete with inner tie rods, so it's not horribly expensive to replace it. Also, how involved is the removal and replacement of the rack? It's not clear from a cursory inspection how to get the rack off the truck. I'm assuming that the toe-in has to be set after replacing the rack? Any other tricky things? Is this a job that's better left to a shop, or is it something that can reasonably be done in the driveway?
