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MrEviLDeD

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Posts posted by MrEviLDeD

  1. Much easier than I expected. I went through the process of removing the wheel but realized that when it comes to the shocks you really do not even have to jack up the Pathfinder for access to either the front or rear shocks.. I can see it being a bit easier with the wheel off for the front but the back it made little to no difference at all. At least that is out of the way..

     

    Thanks everyone.

     

  2. Hello everyone!

     

    This morning I drove my wife to work and things were working just fine. Got home all fine. Took a bit of a nap, got up to go pick my wife up from work and started to notice the truck was loping up and down as I went over a bump like the shocks were suddenly shot. Got to my destination and looked and there is a complete section broken off from the rear drivers side sock and what looks to be penetrating oil in the bolt for the passenger side. DOesn't look like they are leaking as there would be oil all over them wouldn't there?

     

    With that said when I was driving there was no sounds or noises that indicated that anything broke. I didn't do anything outside of driving on the road at speed.

     

    Anyhow I was wondering if anyone could tell me why or how something like the following images could have taken place between my parking her and getting back into her 4 hours later..

     

    Shock_Rear_Drivers001.jpg

    Rear, drivers side.

     

    Shock_Rear_Drivers002.jpg

    Rear, drivers side

     

    Shock_Rear_Passenger001.jpg

    Rear, passenger side.

     

    Is this common? I have never seen this happen with a shock before. I have seen them go but I have never had one break completely off and or look like the passenger side one does.

     

    (Sorry about the bright shots, my phone camera likes to pick up sunlight more than any other light it would seem)

     

  3. I was actually surprised at just how easy it was to do the wheel bearings and the CV axle. I am very glad I replaced the whole axle as it looks like a much larger job to replace the boots and the parts internally.

     

    I ended up getting a channel lock tool for this and it made it a breeze. I think I expanded one of the rings though a little wide that I would like to replace it just to be safe but out side of that It was one of the more straight forward jobs I have had to do as so far.. Still putting off the fuel lines as the weather and just feels like it will be a huge pain in my rump roast.

     

     

  4. Hey everyone! Happy Saturday!

     

    I was wondering which of these were better for Nissan/Pathfinder applications? Both seem to have very high ratings, however one seems to be for domestic while the grey appears to be for imports? Most vids and folks suggest the black and have never heard grey suggested. Does it matter? They are the same price just wondering which would be the best for my application? (valve covers, plenum, iacv and egr valve gaskets?

     

     

  5. Hello everyone,

     

    I have kind of asked this before but it was before having actual fuel lines for my pathfinder.

     

    Does anyone have first hand experience with the connectors that hold the each of the three lines going front to back? The images I have seen and the diagrams I have do not really convey what I will need to do to properly re-use the connectors. In fact I am thinking that the previous fellow tried to remove the old fuel lines and this is why he broke them and resorted to using rubber lines instead. To me this means those connections along the body of the pathfinder will not be of use to me meaning these three fuel lines are at this moment useless to me unless I buy and replace all the connection hardware to the body as well.

     

    Anyone want to buy a 1993 Pathfinder XE-V6 for 5000$ :)) IM KIDDING!!!

     

     

     

  6. Pricing those gaskets is going to set me back another 150$ through Napa. So I am hoping that I can get a better deal from Rob just waiting for a response. Otherwise I am off the shelf for a little bit or I need to do my own wheel alignment and buy the gaskets. However I am in agreement with you. If I am going to do it I might as well do it properly and complete as I possibly can.

     

    Will give me a good chance to clean the throttle body assembly as well.

     

    Eventually I might even be able to answer help questions here :)

  7. Day 30 of 10 :deadhorse:



    Ok not a lot of progress bloody weather. Next place I moved to will have a frigging garage I can work in. This was and is absolutely ridiculous. I would have been done a long time ago had I had a good break in the winter weather. Too much to ask for I am certain but at least I did make most of the progress as so far.



    Found a place finally that did the windshield for 245$ + 20$ for moulding, and another 25$ I splurged for Aquapel coating for the windshield. When she goes under insurance I will take out a special policy on glass this time :) Thanks everyone for the encouragement to shop around for the windshield I was reserved to have to go into speedy or apollo and pay 500$+. Now that should leave me enough room to pay for a proper front end alignment to be done opposed to my trying to do it myself on an uneven street.



    Before it gets dark I should probably get out there and put on the new drive belts and get them off the list as it looks pretty silly those items still being there, :)



    Current day 30 score:

    1. Valve Cover Gaskets (Left/Right) - Status: May Require Replacement
    2. Rear Oil Seal (May Leak) - Status: Purchased, May Require Replacement
    3. Windshield - Status: FIXED
    4. Accessory Belts (Alt/Water Pump) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement
    5. Accessory Belts (Power Steering Pump) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement
    6. Accessory Belts (Air Conditioning) - Status: Needs Replacement
    7. Fuel Lines (Fuel #1) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement
    8. Fuel Lines (Fuel #2) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement
    9. Fuel Lines (Fuel Return) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement
    10. Left CV Axle - Status: FIXED
    11. Tie-Rod Ends (Left-Inner/Outer/Adjuster) - Status: FIXED
    12. Ball Joints (Upper-Left, Lower-Left)- Status: FIXED
    13. Wheel Bearings (Front-Left-Inner+Races) - Status: FIXED
    14. Wheel Bearings (Front-Left-Outer+Races) - Status: FIXED
    15. Right CV Axle - Status: FIXED
    16. Tie-Rod Ends (Right-Inner/Outer/Adjuster) - Status: FIXED
    17. Ball Joints (Upper-Right, Lower-Right)- Status: FIXED
    18. Wheel Bearings (Front-Right-Inner+Races) - Status: FIXED
    19. Wheel Bearings (Front-Right-Outer+Races) - Status: FIXED
    20. Daylight Running Lamps - Status: FIXED
    21. Battery Hold Down - Status: FIXED
    22. Rear Bumper (Full Bumper) - Status: FIXED
    23. Tire Condition (Front Set) - Status: FIXED


    Getting SOOOO close now... Still cannot believe that I am 20 days overdue though. This is going to bother me for ever :)



  8. These snuck in while I was replying :)

     

    yep check the fuel pressure regulator vac line on the back end of the plenum mine rotted off and caused the same miss behavior

     

     

    I will do that first thing tomorrow. Seems to be the popular consensus regarding the rubber.

     

    try putting some gas line antifreeze in your gas, you may have gotten bad gas. I would also check the throttle body and if their are any deposits where the butterfly closes clean it as best you can with carb or TB cleaner and a tooth brush. If you haven't done it already ( which you should on a vehicle 20 plus years old), replace ALL the vacuum lines, one at a time, even if they look good, the ends tend to crack.

     

    I will pick up a couple bottles tomorrow as well.

     

    I know dumb question but will the FSM tell me what size of hoses I will need? I doubt they would all be the same diameter. Guess I just go buy some spools and make a morning of pulling and replacing.

     

     

  9. Have you run the ECM for codes yet? I am just learning about these rigs too but that always seems like a great place to start.

     

    No I have not. I was going to do that tomorrow if I can find the time. However there was no further problem today. She idled at 750 like she should be and ran like a top. However I did go in and fiddle with the IAC sensor connector as well as the MAFS connector before heading out the second time. Maybe that was part of the sudden cure.

     

    I figure soon as it happens again I will pull the passenger seat and do some LED counting.

     

     

    With the age of your truck if you have not yet changed the vacuum hose lines that is the first place I would start. I'm guessing but I wouldn't be surprised if the line behind the block isn't connected by the way you describe your situation.

     

    Like gv280z said...a good injector cleaner etc is a smart thing to do. You can't light a candle with a wet wick. After I did my cleaning the engine's compression came back to life. I went with TerraClean to do my cleaning and was happy with the results.

     

    I will locate and go over the rubber as suggested.

     

    Just to be clear about the injector cleaner. This is just a simple fuel treatment I add to the fuel or do I need to take the Pathfinder in to have someone do this? Someone outside of the forum suggested that I clean my mafs. What would I used to clean it? Is this the kind of thing break cleaner is ok for or do I need more finess ?

     

    I am pretty certain I have a drivers side valve cover oil leak so I have to pull the intake and can have a better look at those rubber and replace the IAC valve and sensor, clean the intake if it is cruddy.

     

    Let's just hope it was an isolated incident.

     

    Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

  10. Thanks for the section heads up. I have a fsm for the 93. Just wasn't sure where to look in the thing it is huge.

     

    I am going to go and check the MAF connector. I should replace the valve cover gasket anyhow which means being able to replace the IAC valve.

     

    After all the work so far I just didn't feel like having to pull my passenger seat and go code hunting. :/ Patience is growing thin on this project but have sunk so much into it so far I cannot properly walk away. I will be honest I have spent everything I can on this pathfinder so I simply cannot afford any more tools or parts in good conscience to get it going. To add I still need valve and intake gaskets. :/

     

     

  11. Hello everyone,

     

    Not sure what happened. The pathfinder was running well before starting the repairs. This morning I was driving it and the idle is very very low. Barely enough to keep running. When Driving there seems to be no problems. Soon as I come to a stop and take my foot off the gas it takes this nose dive. First thing this morning when I turned her over she was running. But then I noticed that the rpm was going up to 1000, down to 750, up to 1000, back down to 500. Eventually it was dropping down to 250... And almost stalling as I slowed down enough to turn a corner or stopping at a light or sign,

     

    I have no idea really what to do. Notable things that have happened is that the battery has died (while I ran the radio working on the truck). Since it has been charged and the pathfinder seems to turn over ok. It was cold out yesterday morning and I tried to turn the pathfinder over and the battery died so I put the charger on it. After a number of hours she turned over just fine. Plugged her in last night and this morning she turned over fine.

     

    What things would cause this kind of behavior? I have searched through the forums and the only thing that connects to my problem in any way is poor fuel pressure. I have no proper way to test this. It has been snowing, then melting, snowing then melting.. Could water have gotten into something?

     

    What are some suggestions for my next move? One step forward, two back with this one... :/

     

     

  12. Day 24 of 10 :deadhorse:



    Hell or high water I needed to get the axles done this weekend. They are both finally completed.



    The only things left now are the fuel lines, oil leak (starting to really think its from the valve cover fairly confidently) and the windshield.



    I cannot believe that it has taken this long. Had the weather stayed nicer for a few more days this would have been done. Either way it is SOOO close now.



    Thanks for sticking with me everyone! I appreciate it huge.




    Current day 24 score:

    1. Valve Cover Gaskets (Left/Right) - Status: May Require Replacement
    2. Rear Oil Seal (May Leak) - Status: Purchased, May Require Replacement
    3. Windshield - Status: Requires Replacement
    4. Accessory Belts (Alt/Water Pump) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement
    5. Accessory Belts (Power Steering Pump) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement
    6. Accessory Belts (Air Conditioning) - Status: Needs Replacement
    7. Fuel Lines (Fuel #1) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement
    8. Fuel Lines (Fuel #2) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement
    9. Fuel Lines (Fuel Return) - Status: Purchased, Needs Replacement
    10. Left CV Axle - Status: FIXED
    11. Tie-Rod Ends (Left-Inner/Outer/Adjuster) - Status: FIXED
    12. Ball Joints (Upper-Left, Lower-Left)- Status: FIXED
    13. Wheel Bearings (Front-Left-Inner+Races) - Status: FIXED
    14. Wheel Bearings (Front-Left-Outer+Races) - Status: FIXED
    15. Right CV Axle - Status: FIXED
    16. Tie-Rod Ends (Right-Inner/Outer/Adjuster) - Status: FIXED
    17. Ball Joints (Upper-Right, Lower-Right)- Status: FIXED
    18. Wheel Bearings (Front-Right-Inner+Races) - Status: FIXED
    19. Wheel Bearings (Front-Right-Outer+Races) - Status: FIXED
    20. Daylight Running Lamps - Status: FIXED
    21. Battery Hold Down - Status: FIXED
    22. Rear Bumper (Full Bumper) - Status: FIXED
    23. Tire Condition (Front Set) - Status: FIXED
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