01Pathmaker
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Posts posted by 01Pathmaker
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How's the inside of the throttle body look? If whatever's being done doesn't work, probably would be a good idea to pull the throttle body and give it a good soak (leave it submerged for at least a few hours, overnight ideally), this will clean up any deposits inside all the linkage pivot points also.
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Wow! Which Sylvania bulbs were they? I've been running Silver Star Ultra since they first came out, the shortest they've lasted me was just over 18 months, but they usually last me over 2 years, longest was 39 months. I've tried all of the competition, except Hella because they're hella expensive and have terrible reviews, in my opinion, nothing compares to the output, clarity and color of the SSU's. I always wear clean nitrile gloves, never touch the glass and a little dielectric grease on the connection, all key to halogen bulb performance.
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Not sure about a relay in the system, sorry I can't help you there, but wouldn't it be easier to track when you need gas by using the trip odometer, instead of carrying extra gas around?
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Pre-95 = WD21
96-04 = R50 - comparable size, no 3rd row
05-12 = R51 - a little larger, 3rd row, still a midsize
13-present = R52 - 3rd row, midsize crossover
Being the active, hands-on Dad of 2 girls (currently 3 & 5), my R50 can definitely be tight at times, but I can't pry myself away from it. Thought briefly about a year ago about "upgrading" to an R51, but in all honesty, for me anyway, if I move on from my R50 it would only be for the right Armada. After I sold my 96 I got myself a 99 Suburban, was awesome in terms of space and utility, but turned out to be a money pit, so I sold that, got my wife a 17 Rogue and took my 01 back. In retrospect, I should have kept my 06 Titan, just bought a bed cap for it, but live & learn...
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No worries, sorry to hear about all that mess, we're currently bracing for a "potentially life threatening" nor'easter here, heavy rain turning to snow & 40-50mph winds gusting to 70!
Thanks for the info! Stay safe and best wishes in the recovery.
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Sucks, but might not be as bad as it seems. I think you said it was crossthreaded with an impact, still not the end of the world. Get the bracket out of the way, carefully apply some heat to the surrounding area (aluminium heats and cools quicker than the steel bolt), even a small propane plumbing torch might work (I have a little map/oxy torch for small jobs like this to give pinpoint heat in tight places), get a good bite with vice grips and back that sucker out. Remember, lefty loosey! Lol. Then I'd find a tight fitting drill bit to GENTLY ream the hole clean and rethread it. A little bit of well-placed heat can go a long way.
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Seems some engines like certain flavors of oil. I know the 5.6 in my Titan made a ton of noise unless I used Mobil conventional 5w30. The 3.0 in my D21 was never quiet, but was best with Pennzoil 10w30, my various 3.3's seemed pretty quiet no matter what I used, but my 3.5 seems to be best with Valvoline conventional 5w30.
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"huh, how about that, guess we oughta look into that," which I'm pretty sure translates to "I have no idea what you just said and it's not currently on fire, so I'll just assume it's fine and let it ride."
Thank you! I almost just spit beer out my nose! So funny, I'm sure, because I can relate!
Aside from the smod wiping out the trans, it sounds quite possible that they weren't exactly the "maintenance is a priority" type of people. I've seen some relatively new and fairly low mileage vehicles of many kinds, in surprisingly poor shape. I've never been able to understand how some people neglect a substantial and important investment, but then again, back when I ran a lawn care business, I had a customer complain that her lawn was turning brown in the middle of a heat wave, when I told her she wasn't watering enough, her response was "for what I paid for you to install this sod lawn, I shouldn't have to water"...
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Congrats guys! This is an awesome idea, Steve! I'll be ordering up some more goodies from you within the next few weeks, then I'll have to send in some nice oceanfront beach pics. Cheers, my friend!
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If you live in an area where codes will not effect your inspection, pull the bulb! Lol It took me almost 2 years and a bunch of parts to finally correct the issue on mine. Once I finally found someone with the knowledge to properly use a smoke machine, it ended up being the o-ring gasket on the top of the fuel tank...
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Sweet! 285/75's I assume? Were the 2" wheel spacers necessary, or could they clear with 1" or 1.5"? Any rubbing? What lift did you go with? Sorry for all the questions, but I've just retired my 01 from DD duty and it's due for a suspension overhaul. Mine is the same color combo and wheels, so I'm very inspired now! Lol
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3 clean, rust free R50's AND you have a self serve yard 20 miles away?! You're killing me!! Lol.
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Nice work! I am however, thoroughly disgusted by the lack of rust, on a frickin 96!! My 96 looked nothing like that and my 01 is starting to show quite a bit... So jealous
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Food for thought at least. I do remember the last time I did rear brakes on mine, I adjusted them, with a brake spoon, through the hole, just as I have always done with every set of drum brakes I've ever done. The result was a nice firm pedal, good, even braking, but the first time I went to apply the hand brake, it wouldn't come up more than a click or 2, backed the adjustment down slightly and ended up with the softer, slightly less responsive pedal.
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I remember CDNS4(sp?) built a custom one as well, but his truck was green, in a well-kept garage. It was somewhere in his million page build thread. Lol. That's a sweet find though, Patrick!
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For what it's worth, you're not the only one experiencing the double pump issue, my 01 has been this way for as long as I can remember. The brakes aren't bad on the first hit, but the pedal is definitely higher and more firm with a second pump. Been through the entire system, even enlisted the help of a good friend who owns a repair shop, everything has checked out fine, bled everything, then power bled, no change. I've owed it since new, unfortunately I don't remember how they felt back then, but it's been this way for years.
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Awesome work as always! I'm very interested to see the progression and adaptability of these brackets, and may be interested in picking up a set, but probably not off the 1st run, as I have other more pressing issues. Are you still going to build your own bumper around these? I'd really like to be able use a hitch style bumper, something like this https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/DIY-XJ-F.html as I really like the versatility of a hitch mount winch, plus need to maintain the ability to use my Snowsport plow. Oh, and that upper skid design is great! I instantly thought about installing a red LED strip behind there, which is odd cause I'm definitely not the "flashy" type...
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It's not terribly hard or scary as long as you use quality tools, take your time, be smart and safe. Most auto parts stores now do free tool rental, so no real loss if you get into it and decide you're still uncomfortable with it, just a bit of time. If that's the case, yank the other strut assembly out, load em up and bring them and all your new parts to a shop. No harm done.
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Just another oil change, but also changed the air filter and in-cabin filters since it was time and they were a bit funky. Also cleaned all the glass, then actually cleaned the dash, center stack, console and door panels, since it's been a really long time! She's a bit happier now... Lol
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Looking good! A couple quick questions; 1)For your 2" lift, did you do spacers or springs? 2)What size and backspace are those wheels, and are you running any spacers? And just one quick suggestion, you can pick up electrical conduit brackets and some metric bolt w/washers, remove your factory crossbars and mount that roof basket right to the rails. Gives it a much lower profile and a cleaner look. Thanks in advance for the info, I'm about a month away from another suspension overhaul and will be needing new tires, so I'm gathering as much info as possible, to see which direction I'm going to take.
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I'm from the old schoool, change my engine oil every 3k, trans & t-case every 30k, front & rear diff every 50k, coolant every 60k, on older (2004 & older) stuff. The newer stuff I follow the "extreme conditions" recommendations in the book. My 01 R50 has 175k+, bought it new, put all but 2 miles on it, just maintenance & mods have been put into it, save for a bad sensor from time to time and the recent IAC gone bad, never a single mechanical failure (probably just jinxed it). I wouldn't be surprised if it rots away before it dies, but even that isn't nearly as bad as some I see around, and I'm on the beach a lot from April-October. She's not babied, pulls my 6x12 trailer fairly frequently, fabbed a front hitch that I use for my 7' Snowsport plow (for mine & 2 other long family driveways). Spend a bit on maintenance, pays dividends in reliability and longevity.
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Good work! Had a slight noise from the rear on my 96, and the LSD wasn't working very well at all. I changed the rear diff fluid, it got a bit quieter and the LSD got a bit tighter, changed it out again when I did the next 2 oil changes. After a good thorough flush like that, it was nice and quiet and the LSD worked as it should. Worth a shot before tearing it apart.
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I've been extremely impressed with my General Grabber AT2's. Have proven excellent in all but gooey mud. Have worn very well (65+k miles and still about 25% tread, wet traction beginning to suffer, snow still good) until recently, but that's because my kyb's seem to have worn out after only about 25k miles. My first set of kyb's weren't nearly this bad when I replaced them after ~60k. My first set were the old silver gr2's, replaced by the newer black excel's about 3 years ago. Now looking for other strut options.
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Interesting, I never noticed the difference, but then again I couldn't pass up the deal I got on my milemarkers. I have to say that although I haven't had any functional issues, the quality of the chrome is terrible. After the first winter it began to peel off, and at this point my driver side is almost all pitted metal, pass side is about half peeling chrome/half pitted crap. Doesn't bother me much though, as long as they function as they should, I couldn't care less what they look like. Those RR's sure are purdy though! Lol
Throttle getting stuck at 4k rpm 00 pathfinder
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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It's not all that hard, pretty self explanatory once you give it a good look, pick up a new gasket before you remove it otherwise you'll likely end up with a vacuum leak afterward.