01Pathmaker
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Posts posted by 01Pathmaker
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Sold what?! Don't tell me you sold that pathy!
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Hmmm, I have a very similar set of lights sitting on a shelf in the garage that I've been planning to use as rear facing, just couldn't decide where to mount them...
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5 minutes ago, hawairish said:
Just curious, but what do the rear hook points look like? I don’t think I’ve seen them before. Are they removed when a hitch is installed?
Yes, the tow hitch utilizes some of the holes that the rear tow point would. Had to remove mine when installed my hitch. Just kind of an odd shaped flat-ish plate with an oval cit into it, held on by 2 or 3 bolts. Not something I'd want to use as a recovery point unless there was no other option.
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1 minute ago, 02_Pathy said:
New kid on the block
Although that's an amazing shot, I think the one you posted in the "random pic" thread showed enough of the twilight sky to qualify and it shows off your great looking ride MUCH better. Just my $0.02...
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8 minutes ago, 02_Pathy said:
Complete noob on here so let's see if this works
Welcome! Sharp ride! I'd certainly be interested to read what you've done so far. Consider making a thread with the details in the "members ride" section.
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Gotcha, mine started popping codes in the 50-60k range. I was very busy at the time the 1st code popped, so I let it go for a bit. Shortly before the next emissions inspection, I scanned it again and had 2 codes, so I ponied up and bought/replaced all 4. Knock wood, not a single o2 code since! I'm completely sure I just thoroughly jinxed myself...
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The R51 front suspension is a completely different animal in comparison to the R50 platform. The R51 utilizes upper & lower control arms with coilover shocks, therefore there aren't any mounts or bearings on top, like the qx4 had. Also, IIRC, the Rancho quick lift units are complete wwith springs (hence the quick lift theory). You'd be better off with Bilstien 5100's and your choice of springs.
Check out Prgproducts.com, Greg has some great packages and is very knowledgeable. I dealt with him quite a bit when I had my Titan and won't hesitate to deal with him if I end up with an R51 or Armada in the future.
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7 hours ago, RainGoat said:
Write the above down, you'll definitely be doing it again.
I've done this 3 or 4 times on my '02.
I've only had to replace them once so far on my 01, at about 50-60k, replaced with Bosch units, now have 180k. What brand have you been using?
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1 hour ago, RainGoat said:
Ohh, that’s a bumper tease alright!Yeah, like there's some side boob showing! LMAO!
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Great work so far! I'm due for tires and suspension overhaul again and am leaning towards 265/75's, looks perfect, in my opinion. Maybe I missed the info, but what springs did you go with?
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To my knowledge nobody is still producing an SFD kit, and as much as I love Steve's products, I don't think his spacers are designed to give that much lift and maintain the correct geometry. Search "sfd" and you'll find a ton of info, once you sift through all the "does anyone still make SFD kits" posts. Lol
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Awesome, as always Steve! I noticed tthe last one is yours, correct? IIRC, you were running 265/75's in that picture, which is where I'm leaning towards with mine. What size lift was used, and was it 1" (25mm) wheel spacers used to clear the coil bucket? Thanks in advance.
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In regards to the IACV/ECU issue, the ECU only needs to be repaired AFTER an IACV failure. When the IACV fails, it causes a short that only effects 1 circuit in the ECU. I've owned my 01 since new, have ~180k on her now and other than routine maintenance and a few sensors, she's been the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. Very capable and versatile in near stock form as well. It gets tight for space now with 2 kids and the dog, and I know I really would be better served with a full-size SUV, but this thing has been so good to me (and shows no signs of quitting) that I can't bring myself to get rid of her. At this point I'm curious to see how far she'll go!
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Rest assured, I've had in-channel visors on several vehicles and never had any issues with scratching, all of which were frequently in dusty, dirty, muddy environments.
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Had the same issue on my 96, I cleaned both surfaces with an alcohol pad, then spread a thin coat of super black rtv, just thick enough to hold itself together long enough to get it all into position, then closed the door gently, let it sit overnight & was good to go.
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Hmm, I'm intrigued! How are those batteries supported and secured?
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Proper grounds are very important. You should always maintain clean & proper grounds (battery to frame, engine to frame & body to frame). There are many electrical components throughout all vehicles that use various (some use multiple) ground points. If one "leg" of the grounding circuit is compromised things can start acting winky and sometimes be difficult to diagnose. I've personally seen plenty of instances where people have gotten lost during diagnosis and just start throwing parts at a problem, only to find out later (through a thorough and proper diagnostics check) a simple broken, dirty or corroded ground was the culprit.
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Good progress so far, looking forward to the rest! Also curious to find out what caused the demise of the engine, how many miles were on it?
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Finally got rid of my mushy pedal on Sunday. New front pads, turned rotors and what really made the most difference was properly adjusting the rears. So nice to finally have a high, firm brake pedal again. It's been years!!
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On 7/30/2018 at 12:31 AM, Smallpathy said:
Custom exhaust?
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Nah, unfortunately just a Walker replacement setup
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On 7/30/2018 at 1:45 AM, TowndawgR50 said:
Depends on what kind of hardware you want. The vendor I've been using to make my polyurethane rod ends can supply everything needed for both upper and lower sets, not including the tube, for around $350 to my door. So Im thinking 600 out the door for a complete set of 4 ready to bolt on with polyurethane bushings. The units above were polished and prettied up post welding which isn't necessary and brings up cost. It was purely for aesthetics.
Currie Enterpries makes Johny Joints that are to size for the R50 that run about $55 a piece, 8 required for a set, and that doesn't include threaded tubing adapters or lock nuts but would be a superior product for a dedicated wheeler.
Thanks for the info, I'm definitely going to kick it around. That said, I'm sure the poly ends you reference would be fine for my application, no hardcore wheeling here (although I'd absolutely love if we had decent LEGAL places to go around here), now my path has become my Costco run, dog hauler, beach cruiser & snow commuter. We used to have a bunch of great places to wheel, but between over-development, illegal dumping morons & our local governments looking to squeeze us for every last dollar while giving us more restrictions, has pretty much killed that as a viable hobby. Plenty of illegal places to go, which many frequent, but it's not worth having my pathfinder confiscated if I get caught. After all, it's not just another clapped out, hacked fender, straight piped Cherokee with the doors ripped off!
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Not today, but recently gave her a new bumper cover and exhaust
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Hmmm, now that the 01 isn't my dedicated DD anymore, I've been tinkering more & more. Would love to re-center the rear within the wells, what kind of $ are you asking for a set with ends?
2002 Pathfinder...the long road to recovery (build)
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Ok, thanks for clearing that up, I was about to get a little crazy...