inqydesu

Ok, so I took off my spare tire carrier, took it apart repainted and am now ready to reassemble. My dilemna is I have to sets of bolts that I don't know where they go. I know that the carrier and the catch attach to the body with grade 7 bolts (about 1.5" long?) The question is how does the tire carrier frame attach to the wheel holder (the part with the wheel lugs) and how does the carrier attach to the latch part (on left side, with the handle). I have a set of grade 7 and a set of grade 4 bolts, one is short and the other regular length. What I need to know is where the grade 4 bolts go (latch part or holder part). Any help would be greatly appreciated. Yes I know I should have labelled before I dissasembled!

Have fun with teh spare tire carrier. I took mine off to paint - I thought maybe 1-2 hours to strip and a day to paint (primer, 2 coats and top coat). Well lets say it has taken a lot longer to strip.... Wire brush takes forever, chemical stripper didn't work too well.. Fun fun....

what wheels do you have - the chrome non lego originals?

They do have a waiver program in NV, but in Clark County it requires a minimum of $450 to be spent (so long new bumper). Also replacing the cat doesn't count towards the cost of repairs! It sounds like the cat might need repairs. I might try that additive, but every time you test it costs $30 (no freebies like my old state). Thanks for the advice. Too bad the bribe won't prob work (computerized testing). Appreciate it!

Ok, a few months ago I tested in oregon and failed the low idle test (HC * CO). I fixed the vacuum lines and cleaned the injectors and someother general tuneup and passed. i have since moved to NV and now failed the high idle (cruising) test. Any suggestions? the low is still fine and it runs fine but is high on the carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons.

I left my Pathy sitting for 3-4 days, and when I went to drive it again i could hardly get the gearshift into gear (5 spd). The Clutch seems to engage like 1-2 inches off the floor, way lower than it was before (at least I don't recall it being that bad). The problem seems to improve once you drive it a bit, but it feels like you are driving a go cart with the clutch kicking in so soon. When you leave it and let the car cool the problem seems to get worse,. So where the clutch engages seems to be a function of the car's running temperature. I really don't want to have to replace the tranny and don't want to damage the truck. Any suggestions on what the problem might be and potential fixes?

on the 89 it is in the back - towards the firewall behind the air cleaner - it is a PITA to get at

That is the other part of the motivation. It doesn't happen much anymore put when i first got my pathy i was constantly leaving the lights on. I would leave early (5-6a) when it was dark, or have to drive in snow and rain, but would forget to turn them off when i got to work, and since there wasn't an alarm or ding sound I had to have my battery jumped like 8 times in a month. I tried to put in an alrm, but the product didn't work, and it screwed up my fuse board (had to rebend the clips that hold the fuses in) Argh.. Anyone remember the site ultimatesuv.com, a guy named eli darland had a pretty tricked Pathfinder, but it looks like the site has gone down. I was trying to find it because he had pictures of his battery set up that was pretty trick. It was a custom box mounted up in the frame rails (underneath the rear seat). I had thought about that as an option

Illegal... Uh Music is one of the purposes, also other entertainment options (dvd, older games etc). I am also planning on including GPS with mapping programs, wireless internet (still looking for a provider), as well as potentially engine management/tracking (if this is possible) and the wow factor. I thought about adding an MP3 hd (like the kenwood keg) but for about the same price (with a little extra labor) I can get a full blown car copmuter, the only down side is I haveto then purchase a LCD monitor. I wonder what a 19" flat screen would look like mounted on the hood ....

Not planning on 24 v - as I want to run a Computer using a dcdc power supply with a startup/shutdown controller (avoid nasty spikes and drops when the car starts). from what I understand those take max approx 14v. I might have mistyped earlier. I am putting in a minitx form factor (approx 6x7 inches - just small enough to fit in the arm rest) computer and wanted to have the cleanness of a straight dc PS - rather than getting a 12v-110v inverter and then a traditional PS that converts 110 to 12v. It sounds like a regular/deep cycle is the way to go for me. I want to be able to run the computer and potentially dvd system for a little while after the car shuts off so that would work the best. Any problems mounting the car underneath?

i've allready pulled all the inside trim panels off allready (to wire for a/v and other gadgets - i didn't see the line - and was hoping to save a bit of time. now just to figure out how the dang nozzle comes off....

Do you mean a problem on your pathy or the trailer? If it is just your trailer you might want to start a new thread. Though I found the problem you described when my switch was going bad (MT - switch attaches to housing - PITA to get out).

is there a particular reason you want to keep the old balls? I just unscrewed mine and put the new ones in. They have worked so fine so far.

I am looking to switch to a dual battery setup. I am in the process of installing a minicomputer in the armrest (gotta love the minitx form factor) with a DC DC connection and don't want the battery to go dead too soon. I am curious if any NPORA members have done this allready (88 has i am pretty sure) and how they did it. I am curious as to 1) Location of the battery. It seems like in most trucks the batteries are both put under the hood - tho I have seen some in the back (primarily for audio use) and I saw one guy who relocated the batteries to the underside of the truck in a custom battery tray. 2) Types of battery - 1 reg, and 1 deep cycle, 2 starting etc 3) Hookup - use of isolator switch, hooked up in parallel, diode/solenoid etc I know questions 2 and 3 are related, but any info or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

My rear windshield wiper sprayer doesn't work. It is an 89 - hence the 2 door. I can tell the pump is working, but nothing comes out the rear. I would imagine the line has gotten crimped/clogged/torn etc. Any suggestions for clearing a clog or repairing? I looked in the Nissan shop manual (Factory, not Chilton's) and it didn't have the routing of the line. Any one know how the line is routed? This isn't a huge deal, but since I moved to Vegas I get a lot more dust and it would be nice to be able to clear the rear windshield. I appreciate any help

I know it is just paint - i should have expressed this early, I am mainly concerned about longevity of the finish. I repainted my commuter car's blades a while back and within 6 months they looked crappy. The spare tire carrier on my pathy was repainted and looked crappy. I was just seeing if anyone had experience. One idea i heard was to get black shrink wrap tubing and place this over the arms. Anyway - any other detail tips would be appreciated.

I have dug a little more and look like people have used all sorts of things 1) gloss black 2) Flat black 3) Satin Black 4) Vinyl Coatings 5) Specialty Black (Ie High heat etc) Any pros and cons?

I am refinishing some of the accessory pieces that have faded. Specifically, The wiper arms (front and rear), rear wing, spare tire carrier. Does anyone know what the original finish was on these? Was it flat black, shiny etc. The rest of the paint is in great shape - but these make it look old. Also any tips for refinishing/stripping/repainting these? I appreciate the help.

I thought I had you all beat until Mike. I paid 5000 for my 89 SE with 72k miles (in 2002). Perfect paint, interior, etc. New tires, nice. 88 - 26% Nice

This am I saw 87 octane (cheapest here) in Provo Utah for 1.97-2.15 and in SLC for 1.90 - 2.07. Costs me $12 to drive to work and back! Need to get a Diesel!

thanks for the input. The mileage warranty ws an issue. Not that I have replaced them, but i want them to last for a bit. i do see the BFGs all over, and it would be nice to have something different. I want something with a good tread, but don't want to be running super agro as this is a weekend offroader. I saw the Yokohama Geolanders. Does anyone have any experience running these?

I am looking to replace the tires on my 89 SE. I am running 31's now, and probably will stay with that. I do in town driving, but also do some trail running (not much mudding tho). Cost is also a factor as well. I am looking at the BFG AT k/Os, and other similar ones. Recommendations please?

Well I cleaned out the injectors, and my local mechanic notice a vacuum hose was disconnected. After that was fixed it passed with flying colors. Before it had a tapping sound to it, now i don't notice that. I have noticed that it runs a little rough. It seems to lug a bit now until it is warmed up. Before I could get it going without giving any gas, now it is morel likely to stall if i jut let out the clutch. Is this normal? Any suggestions now.

I just had my Pathfinder inspected yesterday for Oregon Emissions. Passed the high idle with flying colors, but failed the low idle portion. The standard is apparently 200 or so PPM, and I had 800 (was this Carbon,CO?). Anyway, I need suggestions on what i can do to help it pass. The engine is the TBI (it is a 1989) and has 83k miles. I changed the plugs, wires 2 years ago when it failed emissions and that worked, but it wasn;t this far off. It also has poor fuel economy 10-15 MPG, so maybe tuning it up would help. Could a cracked manifold affect emissions? Thoughs, Please give me your suggestions. Thanks Jay

I am running 31s on my stock pathy with no problems at all.