deanslost

how do you find your V6 on fuel, I know it can't be any worse then a worn out z24. How many km's to a tank. I've been looking on gum tree there seems to be some cheep v6 pathy's around the central coast N.S.W.

I'd love to do an engine conversion. I've actually knocked back good commodore motors because of the cost of the conversion kits and the cost of engineering. I had a V6 pathfinder lined up but by the time I got to it there was too many pieces missing and someone had hacked up the wiring loom. For some strange reason every TD27T that becomes available is too expensive or too far away. I found a complete Terrano for $900 but it would of cost me more then that to retrieve it. My plan is to get it going reliably and as economically as I can. then move on to the other the things I have planned. then if I can get the old girl up to a high enough standard I will revisit the engine conversion idea as time and money permit. I think I may just pull my engine and check it out, then make a decision. What do you think?

Yeah Thats option 3, on closer inspection of the photo's that engine is only single spark too. Might send them a message tomorrow morning and ask some questions before I hit them with an offer.

Hello boys and girls, Might sound like a silly question but..... I have a Z24 twin spark that had the head redone by the last owner but for some reason they didn't do the timing chain. It has developed some serious blow by, I'm guessing rings, hone and timing chain atleast. Option 1 I have found a cheap single spark in what is described as a reasonable condition at a reasonable price $375 (AU) for what is essentially an unknown. I have to pull it out myself and it is 340 km's away. If I decided to go with the new engine what other parts will I require ? I'm guessing I will need at least the distributor. Option 2 I know I can rebuild mine for approx $450 including delivery if there is not too much wrong and if I order the parts from ebay America. But I imagine I will have to pull it down measure bearings and pistons then order parts then wait. So it could be of the road for a month. Option 3 I have also found a rebuilt twin spark for $850 (AU) that is approximately the same distance away as option 1. It was rebuilt 2 months ago but the question is how good a job did they do. Its a second car. A weekend warrior if you like. I can do without it........ if I have to. So what would you do ?

yeah sorry, carby is all back together and I didn't take any pics while I was doing it. But the first link is effectively what I did. I just need to find a big enough hill that has another easy way out to test it.

So some progress, in order of the points above. 1. In order to fit the spacer it has to go under the weber adaptor and the allen head bolts that hold it down aren't long enough. So at this stage the spacer stays out. 2. Original fuel pump has been replaced. 3. Fuel filter has been changed. While I had the carby off I lowered the float level 2mm. I also found that the modification in the first link had already been half done, as the bowl was already vented to the charcoal canister but the original vent was still open. I ended cutting a piece of 1/4 inch copper tube, flattening it to a snug fit then tapping into place, I then sealed any gaps with forma gasket black silicon. The beauty of doing it this way is it can easily be reversed. The only problem I have now is I wont know if the problem is fixed until I try it out. Dean

Hi Cwolf, Now that you mention road car carby's I have a faint and I mean very faint recollection of seeing something like the second option on a carby from a sports car to prevent flooding during cornering. Did I say that this was a faint recollection. The one from the first link makes a lot of sense as if there is an overflow it will go to the charcoal canister and not flood the engine. Thanks Dean

P.s. I know of at least three members that will be watching this thread.

Hi guys, Don't know if I needed to start a new thread on Carby's but this is kind of a new topic. As stated in Z24 Fuel Pressure last time I went off road I had major problems with my Pathy cutting out when climbing. I assumed a few things: 1. Carby was getting too hot in low range at climbing speed and fuel may have been evaporating (meaning I need to put the bakerlite spacer back in) 2. Original fuel pump that I assume is 370,000 kms old may be tired and not up to the task at such a steep angle (New fuel pump on order) 3. Fuel filters that I have never changed could be causing an issue (I haven’t had the vehicle that long and haven’t thought about fuel filters but they are also on order) So In the interest of climbing all of the above will be done but....... I have been searching and reading and reading and searching....... And I have found another possible cause. How to make a weber climb a hillOverflow valve on weber So who out there in the Weber carby world has experienced this when climbing and what (other then replacing the Weber) have you done to fix it ? Which of the above solutions sounds like the best option to you ? Thanks Dean

If it wasn't for a family friend with a Land Cruiser and a winch I would still be there. Although I must mention that even with a front diff lock he still had some traction issues in the country we were in. This makes me even more impressed with my little old pathy Dean

So I answered one of the above questions myself this weekend, went impromptu reasonably hard core wheeling this weekend. The hardest terrain I have put the sloppy jalopy (my daughter named it not me) through so far. I got halfway along Oula Creek Fire Trail and half way up a hill/mountain called Babies chair (or something like that) and the old girl just stopped. Stopped dead. I very tentatively rolled back to the next spoon drain got it started then tried again and it stopped. The worst thing was because we weren't planning on wheeling we had no towing or recovery equipment onboard. Now I had plenty of power and for such a worn out engine I was quietly impressed. It was obviously a fuel issue and because the fuel gauge has never been accurate I thought even though the gauge showed a quarter of a tank it must have been wrong. I spent three hours waiting for fuel to come and that wasn't the cause. What I think happened is that without the bakerlite? insulator/spacer the carby when travelling so slow in 1st gear low range and working it hard was getting too hot and the fuel was evaporating before the engine could get it. I think that the other part of the problem is the original fuel pump may not be up to the task any more, in such steep country it may not have been able to overcome gravity, and the combination of the two problems caused the symptom. So Simon if you are planning on doing this conversion I would leave the spacer in there. The removable flutes under that, the jury is still out on and I am hoping to get some feedback from others who have gone this route before. So next weekend I will be remounting my carby with the spacer included this time, and if I can get the parts by that time I will be changing the fuel pump and the fuel filters. I may also fit a second pump up front to help with fuel lift in steep country. Dean

replaced the rear door gas struts, noticed the other weekend that the strut mounts were bent (one of the plastic ends of one of the struts broke and the door hit me on the head). Ordered some new struts and fitted some washers under the strut mounts to allow the mounts to do up and pull back straight witht the washers pulling against the straight undamaged metal. One more job done. Dean

Mines a z24 (carby) twin spark (8 plug) with a double row timing chain. They did make z24 single sparks also. I believe all z24 engines have a double row timing chain that is part of what makes these little trucks so indestructible, but I will also add that I am by no means an expert on these cars. To confirm which timing chain you have you should be able to take off your oil fill cap and take a look. on mine at least the oil fill cap is right at the front and by climbing up and looking through the fill hole I can see it. By your description I would not touch your engine except to continue with the oil changes. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Maybe with the slight tick you could check or have someone check your valve clearances. I brought mine for $1500 of ebay with 360,000 on the clock. I knew little about these vehicles other then Nissan made good ones (my dad owns a GQ 4.2 aftermarket turbo diesel patrol and its awesome). Oh and the two door pathfinders looked cool. I was happy with my purchase when I made home. Since I got it I've replace shocks and suspension bushes welded the chassis where the front compression rods had flogged it out and repaired a lot of other little things. It's quite obvious that mine was not looked after. From what I have learnt about them these little 4x4s go for ever. Mine still starts easy (especially now that it has a choke) and drives well but it is tired. I have been offered a V6 wd21 that has been rolled and missed out on a diesel one that was rusted out but I don't know if I am up for an engine swap. I am starting to think that The little Z24 that could deserves a second chance to be all that it can be. Maybe a rebuild some A.R.P head studs and a small turbo are in order. I would love to find a spare engine I could rebuild and then swap but Z24's seem to be hard to find cheap.

Hi Sim, It took me approx 4-5 hours with the Kids helping, If youve got kids you know how much fun that can be. No special tools and the carby comes with a fairly good set of instructions that gives you a list of all the tools you might need before starting. using the seat of my pants as a judge, I am happy with the improvement. It seems to do everything better and when you do plant your foot the secondaries open and you can actually hear the engine growl as it accelerates. Ok maybe growl is an overstatement but there is deffinately a deeper more throaty sound when the secondary opens. normal driving you can hear it sucking in air. I think it could be improved even more by some fine tuning from a more knowledgable hand, but right out of the box it is better then the factory option. The only thing I think the carby needs is weeker return springs as the pedle is now a bit heavy, but maybe they will relax with use. Taking into account that my engine is shot, it has significant blow by, so much that I have now run a hose down beside the engine as the oil was soaking my filter fairly quick. I really should get a catch can. At the price I paid It was well worth it. Next step is an engine rebuld. I have seen rebuild kits on ebay in america delivered here for approx $350.00 Dean

A question for those that have done this before, underneath the original carby was a plastic looking spacer that I believe was for insulation purposes and under that there was a plate with two round tubes/flutes that penetrated down into the manifold. When I did my conversion I removed both of these. Is there any benefit to performance in putting these back in ? in hind sight I should of asked more questions before I did the job. I can guess that the insulator may help the carby to stay cool and possibly therefore increase its efficiency ? better fuel atomization ? And I guess that the flutes penetrating down into the manifold may help the carby to draw, kind of like a highrise manifold with out the height. when I removed them I was thinking about reducing the potential amount of vacuum leaks and the flutes looked like they could be a restriction. Anyone have any experience with this or any suggestions/thoughts about if I should put one or both of these bits back. Thanks Dean

Hi Simon, http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=271146866186 The above link is the guy I got mine from. Like others before me I had to enlarge the bolt holes in the base of the carby as the adapter didn't line up perfectly. But it was no biggy. Mine has A/C but I haven't worried about the idle up for it as yet. I did see a way to do it on a thread (I think it was in the NPORA forums) but would have to search again to find it. Fuel economy ? Don't have an android phone yet and I haven't worked it out yet. My Pathy is a second car, I have a work vehicle for day to day driving and my Wife has a nice comfy family car for highway work etc. So the old gallopy doesn't do a lot of Km's and most of them are from home to the bush and back. It does seem to drive a lot better and sounds better if that means anything.... So far I am very pleased. Dean

She's done, Carby's on, it was an ebay one from America and every thing seems to be adjusted right straight out of the box. I ended up using the new throttle cable bracket that came with the kit. After a little adjusting it was easier, the original one wouldn't clear part of the carby. It's still no racing car but wow what a difference it actually accelerates now. I need to do a proper road test with hills etc. but it certainly sounds better and seems to go harder. Next on the list engine rebuild. Thanks Dean

Thanks, It was factory carbureted. My instructions say I that I needed one but suspect that the instructions were designed to cover both throttle body and carby vehicles. I know what I'm doing today. Thanks for the pic and the tip. Dean

I've just received a 32/36 Weber kit to replace the original carby on my 1989 WD21. I was just wondering what the fuel pressure should be and do I need to fit a fuel pressure regulator to reduce it to the 2-3lbs required for the weber. Thanks Dean

No it didn't specify I would assume it applies to all vehicles. If it was a standard option then you can have it

I've Done some research, I found a document on the RTA website that details the possibilities. I am allowed to install any engine that was a standard option on this model, I am still trying to confirm what motors were available in a 1989 wd21 2 door in OZ. I am allowed to install any engine as long as it is not more then 20% larger in power output then the original. I am going to have to talk to an engineer to see how much it will cost me if I want to put in something that is not an original option and is more then 20% larger. In the meantime I am waiting on a 32/36 weber and if that makes enough of a difference I'll reco the engine and hopefully be happy. Thanks for the help Dean

I have a 1989 wd21 nissan pathfinder. It currently has a very tired napz Z24 in it. I am trying to make up my mind, rebuild or replace. I have been offered a wd21 V6 pathfinder that has been rolled I dont know the condition of the engine yet. And I might be able to get a rusted out wd21 td27 pathy as well. If I swap to the diesel I believe I just have to get a new blue slip as diesel was an option in this year /model. I have never seen a factory 2 door v6 though. was this ever an option in Australia ? And am I correct that if it was an option It doesn't need to be re engineered ? Thanks Dean

Hi guys, I'm contemplating replacing my very tired Z24 with a TD27. I possibly have a rusted out pathfinder lined up that is complete with the diesel motor. I don't know the condition of the diesel but being a nissan diesel it probably still has perfect compression etc. I have been doing some searching on the net and have noticed how cheap a Nissan TD27 forklift engine rebuild kit is. Does anyone know if there is any mechanical difference between a forklift TD27 and a Pathfinder TD27. Thanks Dean

So I pulled my passanger side compression rod out to find the front cup on the chassis flogged out and the rear cup flogged out and broken off but thanks to the sleeve under the bushes the rod wasn't to bad. My fix was to grab some big washers and file the hole in the washers out to the right size then weld the washers on to the back of the old cups. I then drilled some holes in the washers to allow for spot welding back onto the chassis. My welding is very average so dad helped me weld the back cup back on to the chassis. Due to lack of time, correct tools and technique I haven't been able to string enough hours together and I have only done the passenger side so far (and that took three weekends with an hour or so here and there) Looking at the drivers side it doesnt look as bad. My question is even if it is not damaged do i need to weld washers onto the back of the drivers side cups to maintain the same geometry etc. Talking to my dad he says that It shouldnt matter too much as I can adjust the nut on the back of the compression rod to suit. ? for those that are in the know what do you think. ? Thanks Dean

Most of my suspension bushes had been replaced when I brought my pathfinder......but. the compression rod bushes have not but they where in one piece. I said where. My left compression rod bush has collapsed. Now this is the rod that goes from the lower control arm to the chassis. I would logically call it a compression rod bush but in my manual it has no part number or description for it. So What is it called and how do I find a reasonably priced replacement. It would be great If there was a pinned list of parts with part numbers pictures and descriptions to look at that was divided into categories. i.e. suspension, engine e.t.c. thanks for the help Dean