meangreenmachine

After reading this forum a couple of times i havent been able to find a factory wiring diagram for the amps. I have a 94xe would like to use a diagram to unplug the amps and build a jumper harness for the speakers. Or is this even possible? i have done this on many other vehicles but not sure what they have for inputs but on the ones i have done had a +and- for each speaker in and out. just jumped between the two voila! Ne Help is greatly appreciated.

i have a 3" sl with 32-11.50 pro comps had to trim the fenders to keep them from rubing when turning tightly but it performs awesome off road and is my daily driver.

The psi on the door is for stock pathys under "normal" or should i say suburban driving. Like it has been stated many factors change the ideal amount of pressure you should run. How old are your tires and have you run the same pressure in them the whole time. If so I would look at the wear on them. If they are worn more in the middle than the out sides i would lower the pressure. If they are wearing more on the outsides i would raise it.

got the same prob just have to keep greasing the steering stops.

Your best bet is jgc springs. Use the ones out of the front with a v8. This seems to be the most common and it is the method i used. I then cranked my front t-bars and installed b-joint spacers to correct the alignment. This is not the best method but it is the cheapest. The ideal way is to use aftermarket uca's. Use the search function and you will find tons and tons of info everyone here is very helpful. It is all really very easy. My jgc springs yeilded a full 3" of lift on a 4-door with a spare tire carrier.

I would say it would be fine if you wash it off, a little brake clean maybe. Its not like it has been running in coolant for a long period of time.

would like to get a few people lined up before I order them but I also want to install my b.l. asap so who knows.

yeah I told them that they had to be about 7 1/2" and they told me that was 190 mm so the bolts are long enough. I would be willing to sell them for cost + shipping.

well maybe we can find a few others looking for the same bolts and all go in together and buy them Ill post in the classifieds also

On my 5-door the rear are 12-1.25 and the third is 10-1.25 I found some at my local bolt store (fastenal) but they had to special order them and had to buy a box of each. 25 per box and they want about a buck a bolt. 50$ for 4 bolts that I need no thanks. Maybe if I can find enough others to go in on a buy in I would get them and send them out.

http://s175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/me...t=4-7-07014.flv stock manifolds dynomax super turbo no cat and 2 1/2" pipe single out If you want more I can get a sound clip here in my drive way.

I do alignments every day. I have used race strings, laser and the new visualiner from john bean. They are all accurate if done correctly. But all their own downfalls. Race string=do your own math. Lasers=have to be level. Any user errors are also possible. In my opinion take it to someone you can trust (probably not the garage that is advertising cheap alignment specials)

I would definately change the water pump while you are in there. Its behind the t-belt anyway. I had a w.p. go out. Got a new one put it on without putting on a new belt cause I had to work the next morn. New one went out 3 months later. Put another new one (warranty) on with a new belt. Put the belt on a tooth off. Took it back apart to get the t-belt right. Getting pretty good at getting under the timing cover now. ha ha

Glad to hear you finally got it figure out. Did the garage absorb most of the bill?

The rear is what i was talking about ,can you see the hole that it threads through in the rear when the carpet is up? Same story for the one in the front that threads in second one back iirc (maybe third).