Bluewulf73
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Posts posted by Bluewulf73
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Good reason for which these guys use it for their platform. Pretty impressive for a work truck.
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Update:
I asked the techs at the dealership and they said:
It is very unlikely the cat is clogged unless:
Bad fuel is used regularly
There is an issue with the head-gasket (fouling up the cat with oil)
Rotten egg or sulfuric smell can be due to bad fuel (as mentioned above)
The likelyhood that the vehicle would stall and not start due to a clogged cat is nearly impossible. Rough running could signify a bad o2 sensor but more likely a MAF sensor.
Recommendations:
Start with the simplest stuff:
Check the MAF
Check vacuum lines
Check all the leads and sparkplugs
Check the distributor, cap and rotor
Replace O2 sensors causing code(s)
Check temp before and after the cat(s) - Should be uniform (nearly the same temperature at the inlet and outlet, if temperature at outlet is lower than inlet then the cat is not working optimally.
(If you have a two-way reader) check the voltage on the O2 sensors (inlet sensor should be reading quick changes in voltage, outlet sensor should remain at near the .4, .5, .6, .7 volts and fluctuate slowly only) If outlet sensor reads low voltage and quick fluctutations it is bad.
Ofcourse they recommended using Nissan spec parts as opposed to other brands...but well, we do what we can, right?
Other things that can kill a cat-converter:
Impacts
Rapid immersion in cold water
Interestingly, I was told that a customer (with a 2000 maxima) experiencing a similar issue, stumbling, stalling, not starting recently went to the service department. It was diagnosed as a MAF. The customer had it changed by another mechanic and it ran rough so Nissan had to perform some kind of ECU re-learning as (apparently six different types of MAF can be used in the 2000 Maxima, depending on engine & transmission choices) Thankfully, the service tech I spoke with doesn't seem to think the Pathy's have the same issue. (only one type of MAF for all 3.3L V6)
N-E way, hope this helps.
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My 2002 have a VG33, I went out lastnight to a mechanic, we observe even if i step on the gas pedal it wont rev up and it start to shake/stamble until i release the gas pedal then it will shift. he told me to check the catalytic conveter and remove what ever is in there. is this a good idea?
Funny you should mention this as there is another thread just posted where the culprit appears to be either the o2 sensor(s) or the cats. Maybe I should remove the cats now...
Seriously though, thank you CHAOSMARINE for this.
I had an MAF go bad in a Mazda Protege but the stumbling and white smoke started as soon as the ignition started. There was a ton of white smoke. My Pathfinder doesn't stall until it's warmed up really good and there is no smoke what so ever.
Although, I did find this on another forum, won't name it, don't wanna get banned from here already. lol
Problem:
"I drive a 1996 Nissan Pathfinder SE (4-Wheel Drive). About 2 months ago, my check engine light started coming on. Some of the symptoms I was experiencing were an abnormal idle, stalling (when completely stopped or slowing to a stop), hesitation, and a lack of acceleration. About a month ago, I took it to an Autozone and discovered the codes were for multiple misfires and the knock sensor. I replaced the spark plugs (which were long overdue anyway), then took it to a mechanic who replaced the rotor and cap. Thankfully, this fixed the hesitation and lack of acceleration. It also cleared the multiple misfires error code, and the check engine light has not come on since. However, it did not solve the abnormal idle and stalling. In fact, the engine has now started to stall more frequently. It starts back up with no problem, but in order to prevent it from dying out again, I have to stick it in neutral and hold down the gas pedal every time I stop at a light."
Fix:
"My problem ended up being the mass air flow sensor (which I had seen posted in other areas of the forum as the possible culprit). I initially tried replacing the spark plugs, then the distributor (hoping it was something simple and inexpensive). Unfortunately, that didn't do me any good (although replacing the cap initially helped for a day). I finally had to bite the bullet and take it in to a mechanic, who properly diagnosed it. He said would tap the sensor (while the engine was running), and the engine would sputter out. Apparently, it has something to do with an element in the sensor or something like that (sorry, I'm no mechanic). Anyway, it cost me $345.00 to get it replaced, but I haven't had a problem since."
Maybe that'll help? I guess I'm gonna try it but it'll be a while, at least a few weeks.
This just makes me feel all better since yesterday I ordered a $#itload of parts (all four o2 sensors, MAF, fuel pump) and I still have to replace my distributor.
Had the same problem before, it was the entire distributor. You could see a small black area on to where it was arching to the body. Another thing i had to replace was the positive connector to the battery. Removed those crappy terminals, cleaned up the wires and installed nice connector J-Block that had two openings that I could install the two smaller gauge wires. Worked like a charm.
Good Luck on the distributor. Hopefully that has resolved the issue.
Hey Timmons,
I did not notice any arcing or burn marks on my dist., just some rusty areas. Regardless, I think tomorrow I am going to replace my distributor and if that does not work, next on the agenda is the fuel pump, MAF and o2 sensors (whenever they arrive)
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That sounds eerily similar to what my car is doing...it has gotten worse, except my car will start...for now.
I've changed pretty much the same parts you have changed, except for the distributor and fuel pump. The car stumbles and shakes and while this is happening, it runs richer than Trump. To the point I can see the black smoke coming out of the tailpipe, as if it were a diesel. I also get a strange smell, not of rotten eggs but just very heavy spent fuel smell.
I have changed the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, TPS, AICV and ordered a new distributor, new fuel pump, new MAF and all four O2 sensors from Rock Auto yesterday. Hopefully they'll be here soon.
You make a good point though jayjay6888, what if it is caused by clogged cats?
I'll have to ask at my stealership to see if they would know... 
Hmmmmnn...
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I'd hate to be behind one that flips...just gives you a real-life glimpse of your future as you head to your doom without being able to do anything about it.
Still, funny when it happens to others...
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sometimes it's best not to see things.....OH the paperwork....
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Finished the install last week and was able to take the truck camping this weekend. I have to say that this is exactly what the pathfinder needed. I loaded it up with the family and all of our camping gear and you couldn't even tell it was loaded by looking at it (it used to sag when I would fill up the gas tank). I didn't do any real off-roading this weekend other than the short trail up to the site, so I can't really report on that aspect yet. Since I did the lift there has been no rubbing at all with the 265/65/17 tires. I haven't had a chance to take some really good pictures, but here is one from right after the install. I don't think this picture does this lift justice. The stance is perfect and the tires fit the wheel wells perfectly IMO. I'll post some better pictures and the before and after measurements when I have some time. Let me know what you think.
Looks awesome!
Photo angles can be very deceiving with respect to measurements and distances. Still, I can tell the difference between this shot and the one you posted with your new tires.
Congratulations. You are well on your way to becoming a modification addict. It is intoxicating!
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Will this fit in 2002 VG 33E engine?
I think the 2002's have a VQ35, don't they? Being as how you are in Qatar however, 2002's might have come with VG33s there. If you are sure you have a VG33 then it should fit.
I just got the code PO0325 knock sensor. will this fault can cause this? what happen when knock sensor fails.
I am not sure. Might be, since the knock sensor is meant to detect detonation. If your engine ran lean during the stumbling/stalling it could have caused code PO0325 (someone please correct/add if I am completely wrong or missed something)
There is something odd with my engine...spring last year, I ran some horrid fuel (only gas station around) and it messed with my fuel system. Said fuel caused the engine to miss and detonate ( I could hear the pinging) yet my knock sensor never went off. After that fuel tank, I used a fuel additive to get rid of impurities in the fuel and got some good gas. Didn't have issues again until late last year when the car started stalling while idling.
I should have never sold my Scangauge II. I could be using it right now to monitor fuel pressures and such when the engine stumbles/stalls. I might need to get another one.
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There is a video of a go-cart with a Hayabusa engine. that thing is insane! and he's driving in on city streets.
That's that monster kart, right? They have videos of it doing the 1/4 mile against a KTM X-bow and a Yamaha V-Max...caraazy! Kicks butt!
I totally expected the cop car to turn around but then again, he and his kart are so small, the cop might not have even seen him...
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If you can get one from a wrecking yard for el cheapo. Then worth a shot.
It would be nice...problem is that wreckers here gouge everyone on everything...
Set of flares for my 98, without hardware...$100/flare...used, off a wreck.
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he did that to have access u dont have to grind the wheel to make them fit u could just leave the hub caps off or pop them up everytime u need to lock the hubs he just did it for convienence u will see in the picture u posted only the center of the cap was cut to make a hole.
u will notice a increase in mpg plus less wear and tear on your cvs i have them on both my r50 pathfinder and i got 2-3mpgs from both of them
I have had the hubs on for only two weeks and I am noticing a difference of about 50-55 km/tank and that is in the city, with the RTT on top. To me that is HUGE. So, yes, you will notice a difference and daily driving, the Pathy is easier to drive, especially in tight U or three-point-turns. -
I have read somewhere here that they used a MAF from nissan Maxima, although the engine is VQ, can we use the same in our VG.
Thanks
I think what you are referring to is this.
It seems to work on the VQ engines. I did not find anything for the VG33. I am just going to try and get one from a wrecker (unless they ask for stupid $$) then I'll look into alternatives.
Maybe someone else can chime in if they have actually done a maxima VQ MAF to VG33 swap.
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This sounds like a problem I have also. Replaced distributor, plugs and wires, nothing, still happens. I live in an emissions free city so I cleaned out my catalytic converters, still happens but it has more power until she decides to stumble and stall. I'm thinking it is a fuel related problem also. It has the original fuel filter, most parts on it are still factory, so I'm hopefully taking care of that problem at the same time I get my valve cover gaskets replaced.
One thing I don't understand is if it is a fuel problem wouldn't it be harder to start or stumble and stall shortly after starting? It NEVER happens to me until its warmed up and especially on hotter days.
Maybe the issue is caused by the pump warming up and that is when it starts acting up...otherwise it could be the O2 sensors as it only happens when they are supposed to be at normal operating temperature...
Anyway, I just got my distributor and I have a course of action that I'm sticking to. I am going to replace the distributor first, then the fuel pump and then the O2 sensors. If that does not work well, the last two things to replace are the MAF sensor ($$$$) and the fuel pressure regulator ($$$$ or long hours taking the IM off...again just to change the FPR.)
I want to keep this truck and I guess that replacing parts that are 15 years old is not that bad a thing. If anything, I will, hopefully get another 10-15 years out of it. Still cheaper than buying a new car...
I'll see if I can do this on-by Friday n I'll post. Really friggin busy @ work this week.
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If you need a timing light I bought one for around 10 dollars at princess auto. If you have one nearby.
We have a Princess auto around 45 min. away from me. I might just wander over, fall in the store and come out with a timing light...
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NOt yet. It hasn't acted up for a while (until this afternoon) so I have not been able to get any kind of reading
I still think its my dist. or fuel pump. My friend seems to think it might be a fouled-up O2 sensor. His reasoning for this is that the Pathy runs very rich while it stumbles and stalls...
Still, no codes at all which make this job very confusing. I already ordered my replacement Dist. and will pick up a replacement fuel pump soon too. Both are things I can easily replace at home. I am going to do one at a time so I can get definitive answers.
I'll post up once parts are changed.
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This kind of mud is very funny to watch people get stuck in but very dangerous. Especially when found floundering in a place like Turnagain arm near Anchorage AK, with the tide coming in at lightning speed. There are records of people getting stuck and drowning because they could not get free before the tide rolled in.
Lucky "Bill" is not in a place like that. Still, you can see how quickly he was sinking and how difficult it was for him to climb and /or actually get pulled out.
On a different note, the mud around here smells like shiznit and is sticky as heck thanks to the underlay of shifty clay.
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Happy Belated Birthday!
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Just remember you still need the DRL, you can get a VI (Vehicle Inspection) ticket if they are out. That requires repair and correction at a licensed facility. I know it is unlikely but it does happen.
I will be using a set of LED light as DRL's once I iron out the projector...project
u guys got DRLS wtf screw that im moving to Canada
Funny - those w/o DRL's want them, lots with DRL's want them gone...
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When I replaced my rear LCA and UCA the ride did seem (visually) a bit higher and it definitely felt tighter. After things loosened up, YoDa once again became a saggy bottom boy. (take that last comment as you may)
My rear CA's were completely shot and were replaced with brand new ones, along with all rear bumpstops. My shocks and springs were all replaced because they were shot after 200,00 km.
Chaces are your ride will once again look lower at the rear once the bushings losen up a bit. After that, you'll have to decide whether you want to replace your springs or add a helper air spring.
If you add the helper spring, make sure you enlarge the hole the hose is going to go through, (as stated in on of the prevous posts) but do it enough to be able to use a ruber grommet to protect your hoses from chafing on the metal ends. You should be able to get the grommets from any automotive parts store. Doing it right the first time should give you years of enjoyment and use out of your air springs. (Even with the OME lift, I am thinking of adding the air bags to help with the exttra weight I carry in the rear on our long tirips)
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lookin' great!
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Yup got them here in canada. check the fuse, relay, n' box beside the battery. I unplugged my DRL's from there, then the box fell off its holder causing a short. put it back in its place and changed the fuse, everything's fine now. Checked it and returned it to its unplugged state.
unplugged then 'cause i was thinking of getting sum HIDs. Not 'till i can find them projectors though...
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Great idea! I have been toying with the idea of attending this http://www.overlandexpo.com/ next year but I'd be just as insterested in GONE MOAB in 2014. A strong NPORA showing would take the cake too.
I got permission
to attend the Expo, now to convince her that both events are totally worth it! -
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Im not too fram from WA so I will attend wherever. Maybe even try n get one going in BC and meet those is WA?
Foul smell will not start
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Really? 3.8L V6 Mustangs? I mean, I can see the Qx4, Frontier and Xterra (all with a 3.3L) and maybe even the Villager ( I think also a 3.3L, if I'm not mistaking but a Mustang?
Wow! I need to get out more...