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Bluewulf73

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Posts posted by Bluewulf73

  1. This! I've handed parts back to them when they quoted the price and told them I could buy a new one for that price. They don't care and throw it in a bin filled with others...

    I really only go anymore for things I can't get elsewhere; trim, bits and pieces, etc.

     

    B

    Especially after you saved them the work of pulling it off the donor vehicle...basterds!

  2. Hey Kittamaru,

     

     

    :my2cents:

     

    I'm sorry you are having these issues with your vehicle(s). By the sound of it, you are looking at spending more on yer Path than the $1100 you were told it would cost to get the Cherubee back on the road.

     

    Unless you are going to do all the work yourself and you have the time, I fear this is not going to end well for either you, the Cherubee or the Path. I mean, you are even looking at purchasing another DD just to get your Path back on the road...

     

    Perhaps think about purchasing another Path? One that is more...um...complete and would actually pass inspection? I hate to 'dispose of "loved ones" but sometimes you just gotta let go...no offence and I wish you luck if you decide to fix up yer Pathy.

    • Like 1
  3. Subaru makes something to add to your coolant that I've heard good things about. Subaru people would know as fast as those things pop head gaskets.

    That is a coolant additive to prevent clogging of the radiator>overheating>premature gasket failure. It is not a gasket seal.

     

    Subies are finicky...and the older models (1998-2005) do pop head gaskets...lots, that's fer sure. Electrical-wise they are backward to pretty much everything else out there too. Still, I like Subaru... :rolleyes:...still.

  4. I don't think there is a long-term fix, other than replacing the gasket. I *think* I've seen some sort of leak-stop product out there meant as a temporary (get outta-the-woods and back home) stuff out there, just don't know where and/or if you'd have it in AU.

     

    I was right...for once :jig:, I have seen some Head-gasket repair stuff out there... :wiggle:RXAuto Head Gasket Repair

     

    Again, I wouldn't trust it as a long-term solution...

  5. Its your wind chimes...

     

    No, but seriously, last time your rear brakes were checked? Perhaps the ABS sensor or something of the sort? Did you do anything to the truck just before this started?

     

    Sounds like thing metal hitting an exhaust pipe...Check the prop shaft. Maybe something has affixed itself to it and it is smacking an exhaust pipe, muffler or the fuel tank protector. Sometimes when things spin (like wires or something of the sort) they are actually shorter going one way (because of the way they curve) and don't hit items but as soon as you start rotating the other way, they'll hit.

     

    Play around with the camera, placing it in different areas of the car, facing it toward the center-line of the car starting in the center, (around the b-pillar) and work it backwards. Check the video right after every different location to see if the sound gets louder or not. If it gets louder, you're getting closer to solving the mystery. That way you won't have to raise the truck on JS. :lmao:

    • Like 1
  6. Lookn' at new cars today...

     

    Checked out the Dart Rallye...in Tangerine Orange with black whels...fully loaded...roomy...feels solid. N.I.C.E!

     

    Then went and checked out the Golf TDI - Nice...@1000KM/tank but a little too sedate looking for my taste and $37,000? C'mon!!!!

     

    Lastly, checked out the Veloster...mmmmm :wub: turbo...double :wub::wub: even my wife like this one the best...can't decide between the silver or burnt orange. Next, a test drive.

     

    Blevinger, I have a question for ya...base, do you get bluetooth/hands free, backup camera and such? My wife wants a full load but its pretty pricey here ($33,000 all in for the Turbo)

     

    Both the Dart Limited/GT and the Veloster Turbo are in the same price range...like the 3 doors and the panorama roof, W.O.W! Only thing that disappointed me a bit was the lack of head room in the back...with kids that use booster seats, it might just be a tad too tight...

     

    Well, at least it'll keep 'em from jumping up and down... :lol:

     

    Looked at the Mazdas too...didn't do it for me wifey... the only one I would get would be the Mazdaspeed3. My wife liked the CX5 though. AWD... :/

  7. Usually a sticker under the hood, IIRC, where it shows how the belts are routed and in your user manual, the sizes and capacities section.

     

    Got a call today from NIssan, as they were taking the top of the engine apart, they found a couple of pipes and hoses which were rusted/deteriorated to the point where they were leaking coolant. The parts will not arrive 'till next Tuesday...a few more days without my baby... :(:thumbsdown:

  8. Supposedly my problem is MAF. A plug for the sensor is broken. $220 part. Also the wiring harness got pinched somehow and had a short, replace from a junker. Anyway, with that, the valve cover gaskets, front and rear diff. fluid, coolant flush, steering fluid cleaned out and a few other minor things itll be $1000. Ill have her back by mid next week.

     

    Wow, great! I'm glad they found the problem(s). How broken is broken? Like falling apart or not working? So even with a junker replacement it is still $1000??? Wow!!

    Im thinking since I have a '96 its an R50. ? Im no mechanic, but is that a correct assumption? At least thats my thinking due to all the topics in this section.

     

    You do have the R50 with he 3.3L. R50's also came with the VQ3.5.

  9.  

    Check and see under your back seat for the Nissan provided tools, some of its for spare tire replacement, but three of the tools are for spark plug changing.

     

    these saved my butt when i went to change the spark plugs on my car, ESPECIALLY number 6

     

    But this photo i took of me doing my knock sensor change might help to give you a visual of how hidden spark 6 is.

     

     

    8305596371_0144152ede_c.jpg
    So this is taken right about where the harness would sit coming from the firewall (firewall is on the top left, front of the engine and car is going towards the bottom right), so pretty much reach down and its the only thing back there with a stud (So putting the boot back on it much easier) and the ONLY upward facing socket headed anything larger than 14MM
    But like i said, having the Nissan tools MAKES A WORLD OF A DIFFERENCE for this job.
    -Kyle
    EDIT: as far as getting them out, trodgor is right on the money, a small amount of PB at just the right angle and given time to soak, will be just the ticket. if not, start P...
    (Kidding, please don't do that)

     

    :lol: - For the first few minutes, lookinga t your photo, I couldn't find the plug... :headwall: I guess I was looking for a hole...then, after a few frustrating minutes, found the plug...

     

    Just goes to show how difficult it really is to find... :shrug:

  10. Not sure what your backspacing is with the OEM wheels or what it wil be with new wheels but here's what I experienced:

     

    On my 1998, the original tires were 235/70/15. Sucky doodle!!!! When we bought the truck, they were replaced with 255/65/15 Radial Rovers (roughly the same size as a 30X9.5X15. With the original LE wheels (mesh-like) they rubbed the driver's side wheel well trim (with the outer shoulder blocks)and unibody on the passenger side (with the inner shoulder blocks) every time I put it in reverse and turned the wheel all the way to the right.

     

    Later on (last year) I changed my wheels to some ARE's with 3.75" backspacing and had some on-road-worthy 235/70/15's on again. I quickly got a flat (sliced sidewall) and got meself some 30X9.5X15 radials. They still rubbed the same places, but not as much. Later, I thought, with the lift the rubbing would go away...it did but only on the driver's side. The passenger side rubs lower on the Unibody (although not as much as before)I will try and post photos of the locations once I get my Path back.

  11. I don't have the A/C lift but did the Old Man Emu lift with spacers all at once and regret it. I achieved a lift of 3" with the OME/Spacer, same as the AC + spacer. I was expecting 1.5" lift. The inboard boot on my passenger-side half-shaft pulled off its track and spewed grease all over.

     

    I would say, in my opinion, (even thought it does not make sense from a do-it-right-the-first-time point-of view, I think doing it right means waiting for things to settle...I think exbrit did the same thing I did (with AC springs) and decided to pull the spacers off because it was causing too much trouble.

     

    Personally, now that I found a half-shaft that will probably work on my path (all others I tried to replace the leaky one with kept binding) I will wait another two months for the suspension to settle further before replacing it.

  12. :aok: :aok:

     

    Awesome! finally some closure... :ohmy::beer:

     

    Amen to that Brah!

     

    Sweet! Glad they found something.

     

    Mines in the shop now. Went in Monday Late and they were to run diagnostics today. Hope to find something out by tomorrow.

     

     

    Somethign IS better than nothing...funny asked them today if they would or could guarantee this was the issue...they said, no guarantees but once this is out of the way, any other issues would be a piece of cake to find.

     

    Good luck with yours...I hat playing the waiting game...

    I called it. :happy:

     

     

    Ye sure did rebelord, ye sure did...I hope the manifold is not warped in any way...

  13. Apparent culprit: Lower intake manifold gasket. There is vacuum leak between the head and lower manifold. They're going to change the knock sensor and fuel pressure regulator while they're in there too.

     

    PS - They tested the temp sensor and readings are normal with no spikes or sudden changes of any kind.

  14. Sounds like something my friend did to his 1998 TDI.

     

    Was lowered and drove through a back lane (according to him, at 30kph) and completely tore the snot out of the under body of the car...ripped his body kit clean off the car tore his cross member...and this was just a speed bump...serves him right for speeding and talking on the phone at the same time...through a back lane no less.

     

    Almost $8000 in damage repair...it would've been scrapped here too.

  15. Oh, people buy them...here in Vancouver I regularly see:

     

    R8 v8's R8 V10's, all kinds of Lambo's, including the new Aventador (saw one last friday, driven by a guy looking to be no more than 21 with a New Driver tag), at least two M3s and/or M5's every day, Aston Martins of all kinds, yesterday, I saw a 2013 RS3 while on my way to work, Lotus-ie/es? of all kinds, Ferraris (saw a California and an Enzo sitting side by side as I was driving to work. A while ago (over a year now) I even saw a couple of Veyrons, and Zondas cruising together. That was awesome! Their thunderous exhausts echoing off the high buildings of downtown Vancouver.

     

    Vancouver is insane for premium brands and Supercars. Tons of wealthy people here. What really kills me is seeing kids who are still in or have just graduated high-school, and have just their learners or new driver's sticker, driving $150,000-$300,000 cars.

     

    Not too long ago there were several people street racing their exotics on our city and highways 13 got caught and their cars taken away for 7 days and ticketed for excessive speed and driving without due consideration (whatever that means). The oldest was 21 and it was his dad's car...(his dad got the car back) :broken:

     

    Bit of the story HERE

     

     

    The only brand I have not seen on the street here, is Koenigsegg. Not to say there aren't any here...I'm sure there are, I just haven't been at the right place at the right time...

     

     

    Anyway, this thread is about sexy sounds...of the V10 R8...oh, who knows...I leave you with this...

     

     

    Ok, why is this not working? I copied and pasted from the address bar...N/M, found a way...

     

  16. To be quite frank, I'm a little annoyed with the dealer you're truck is at right now. I know they have to have a decent scan tool, they can plug the thing in and moniter the live data from the ECU. All four O2 sensor readings, short and long term fuel trims on each bank, the timing advance, TPS values, MAF values, etc. Why the hell aren't they doing that?

     

    One thing I noticed you/ they haven't tested or replaced is the ECU Coolant Temperature Sensor... big overlook I think.

     

    Hey Kingman, I too am annoyed with them and thank you for suggesting they check the ECU Coolant temp sensor. I will find out if they have at the very least, tested it...(I'm not sure how this would affect idle in the way its affecting my ride...had I known I may have suggested it myself.)

    According to them they've checked All four O2 sensor readings, short and long term fuel trims on each bank, the timing advance, TPS values, MAF values, etc and nothing is out of whack. According to the service manager, they've also done compression and voltage testing to see if maybe the alternator is causing things to wonky...nothing. Everything within necessary parameters. They've had three different technicians work on the vehicle, one with 27 years' experience and even he is stumped. They've called in their Nissan Service Hotline (in front of me, while I wait) for guidance and noting came of it.

     

    :yeahthat: I said the same thing a few posts ago that this dealership doesn't seem very competent. If there are no other dealers around how about a reputable independent shop?

     

    Hey stioc,

     

    Yes, you did mention it and I am having trouble with finding another reputable shop that knows Nissans as well as these guys do. The one reputable independent shop I know of, although they work on all brands, works mainly on Subies and Volvos. Their wait list is huge and they are fairly far from me. I had a subie before which I took to them (they replaced my prop shaft) and stopped by to ask the master tech/owner, explaining my woes and what I had done to try and mitigate the problems. He suggested taking it to a place that specializes in Nissans. He was so busy he didn't want to deal with it himself. I was quite surprised 'cause he was extremely helpful on prior occasions.

     

    The long and short of it is that this dealership has the best service-satisfaction outcome of all of the ones near me. They are the closest to me and this is, really, my only option.

     

    I guess i'm just going to have to wait...in the meantime, I will suggest the ECU coolant temp sensor and/or the PCM as the culprits.

     

    Thanks for all your input.

  17. So...I've been eyeing a Missing Link myself from Jacson Autosports for many months now....finally got off my butt and picked up the phone to call them today. Bad news. They are out of them...and can't make them at the $40 price point without at least 10 orders. Was wondering what the interest level is out there and maybe get lucky and see if there are 9 of you out there who might want to order one? I do not intend to hijack the thread...but being as it's exactly about what ennacac posted about...thought I'd avoid creating a separate thread.....but happy to do so if more appropriate. Whaddya say guys? Any takers?

    If you have no luck rounding peeps up for a JA ML and you're in a hurry to get something like it, you might want to contact Fleurys, he has his own version of the link which I would imagine is just as useful... I believe he uses his as an attachment point for front and mid bash plates too.

     

    Just sayin'...

  18. Still no word... called 'em today and apparently they checkd the plugs, wires and distributor and found no issues. Spark, compression and timing are good. :aok:

     

    They are going to swap my old MAF back in to see if its the MAF...I doubt it...maybe the PCM...?

     

    They are at a loss for words... :wtf:

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