Leo94

Show the lady that saw it get towed away pictures of pickup trucks from that era, if she can identify the model then you can at least talk to people in the neighborhood and see if they know someone with a similar vehicle. Good luck with the search.

You could always run an aftermarket fuel gauge that matches your factory ohm range, but it would be neater to have the dash gauge work properly.

If you know the ohm range for the fuel guage then all you need to do is get a universal fuel sender to match that range. The fuel sender is usually adjustable in length to suit different sized fuel tanks so you can get a proper reading and so the pickup can reach the bottom of the tank.

I can't stand when people only sell 4 or are only willing to buy 4 matching pairs of a rim, it just doesn't make sense .

Fixed it for you

This is my h233b diff, the lsd sticker is said to be the most durable part on the pathfinder but as you can see it hasn't been there for some time, if that's the case then i'm in some serious trouble.

Enjoy

Going by your profile i'm going to assume you have a v6? if so you don't have a carburetor you have the throttle body injection motor. Start by checking your codes and go on from there.

Pretty much when you adjust the rod adjust it till there's no play, then back it off half a turn. When it comes to bleeding the clutch I didn't have to bleed the dampener because terranos don't have them, so what I did (with a helper to pump the pedal) was: Top off the reservoir Pump the clutch 4 times and hold on the 4th Crack open the Master cylinder bleeder valve with a CLEAR tube on it leading into a clear container, make sure it makes a tight seal around the bleeder valve Close the valve and release the pedal after and ONLY after you have closed the valve and repeat till there is no more air coming through the line. If you are still getting air through the bleeder your master cylinder, hydraulic lines or bleeder valve might be defected (I would recommend rebuilding or buying a oem nissan master/slave) I would recommend you just bypass the dampener and then just follow the same above steps but for the slave cylinder afterwards, otherwise as stated above bleed the dampener after the slave cylinder

Maybe you could get a rebuild kit from Rob the parts guy on here? If not you can get it here, and this forum post shows how to rebuild it.

Get a weber 32/36 carb, it's a pretty common mod for the z24, there several writeups on the internet and you can get adapter plates and whatnot on ebay.

Unfortunately it's like that with most of his posts because he Facebook to upload the photos, I don't think he goes on this forum much any more so you could try sending him a pm if you haven't already and that should send him an email.

I'm guessing he meant that his block warmer wasn't plugged in.

Correct.

Cool trick, you should post this here.