ltsnotme
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Posts posted by ltsnotme
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No, unfortunately, I believe the speed sensors are the same. The way that Nissan "re-calibrated" the speedometer was to regear the front and rear diffs when going from 235 to 265 series tires. Models that originally came equipped with 235/70R15 tires had 4.363:1 gearing in the axles, while models that came with 265/70R15 tires had 4.636:1 gears.
How difficult is it to regear the diffs?
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I switched from 235/70/15 to 265/70/15 (which is stock for the SE trim), so my speedometer is off by 5% and odometer by like 10%. Would getting a speed sensor from a 96-99 SE fix that, or is the wheel size programmed in the ECU?
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Sorry, I live on a tiny island with no "chain" auto stores.
That is awesome.
But are front control arm bushings that 'generic'? (ie, can be shared by most large vans/trucks/pickups/SUV's?)
Pretty much - they're just bushings. If those are your only two options, I would go with the chinese ones as well. Sounds ridiculous to spend $700+labor just to replace bushings. And like Howie said, I'd look somewhere other than the dealership to have them installed.
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devonianwalk - I have a question on your brush guard. Is it strong enough to protect the car for example in case if you hit another car on a parking lot?
Or is it just a decoration? I am looking for something like this for my wife...A brush guard is called a "brush" guard for a reason: it's meant to "protect the front of your vehicle from brush, limbs and debris," not from other vehicles.. Although at parking lot speeds, it might save your front bumper from minor dents and scratches.
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Hmmm, I like the stock rims better. Those, I believe, are stock SE rims, by the way. Stock LE rims were these:
I guess the SE rims (with larger tires) came as an option on some LEs.
Tires look great though!
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yesssssssssssss
That's pretty cool. Would a 3.3L have enough power to get up something like that?
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Wait a sec, that device you installed on the dash that looks like a fancy digital inclinometer also tells you the AWD axle torque ratio? How does it do that?
That's what I was wondering too.
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I'm going to try to swap out my Front LCA's (4WD,) and I've searched all over this forum trying to find out whether or not I need to separate the ball joint from the knuckle...
If I just remove the 6 bolts holding the LCA in place (3 to the chassis, 3 to the ball joint,) can I just drop the control arm out with the ball joint still attached to the knuckle? I think that would make my life a lot easier.
Thanks.
You sure can.
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Ha ha, thanks. I think they give it a slightly "Steampunk" look because they kind of look like huge rivets!
:laugh: Also, that's what the Mile marker hubs look like installed if anyone needs a visual.
And this is what they look like if you cut holes in the center caps:
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To change the isolator the rack has to be removed from the chassis. Can this be done with out raising the front wheels off of the ground? Im going to have to replace my rack this summer. :thumbdown:
You don't need to remove the rack to change the insulators. Just remove the two mounting brackets, and you can get them out. I raised my front when I changed mine, but I don't see why you would necessarily have to, as long as you have enough room under there to get the brackets off. Also, I don't remember if that's how I did it, but the brackets should probably be removed one at a time so the gear assembly doesn't move off center. Below are tightening specs (for my '96).
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Well, if it's the same as in my '96, it's next to the steering shaft as in the diagram below.
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Also check your steering gear mounting insulators. One of them is located directly under the oil filter, and after prolonged exposure to oil (during filter replacement), it deteriorates and the whole gear assembly starts moving laterally.
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Here's a pic, of the original tires (235/70/15), with fender flares.
I thought SE's came with 265/70/15's stock.
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Thanks for the new pic, it, gives me a better idea of the "look". The bummer is, I just threw away my old flares
I removed them a month or two ago & had them laying around the garage, then a few days ago I thought "what the hell, I'll never use these again" & tossed them! 
"
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Well, in your last picture it says on it that it's the 54057, which goes right under the spring seat in the illustration above.
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I think R50s with larger wheels look much better with flares than with their flat fenders.
With small wheels, it's the opposite. They definitely look neater without the flares on small wheels.
True. I have smallish wheels, and it does look pretty weird.
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Actually it depends on what vehicle you have, some mounts have rubber &/or a bearing in them.......
http://www.kyb.com/technical/what.phpWell, the part with the rubber is the isulator (part No. 54320), which should probably be replaced with the struts. But the part I meant was the mounting bracket (part No. 54322), which is just a metal plate.. But I guess if you want to be thorough and don't mind the expense, you might as well replace everything; the plate is only $13 afterall.
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The strut mount is just a metal plate. If it's not corroded, there's no reason to replace it..
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I removed the plastic fender flares no my 96 in an effort to make it look less like a soccer mom minivan & now (of course) I want to put some rock crawlers on which have a -3.75 back space. This means that the tires are going to stick out beyond the (now flat) fenders. It looks like I'll have to make some fender flares as California law states that the body must cover the tread of the tire & I don't want to put the cheesy OEM flares back on. Anyway, my question is, if I use 33x10.5 or 33x11.5 tires any idea on how much they would stick out with them mounted on the rock crawlers? & yes, I know the 33x11.5's will stick out 1/2" more than the 33x10.5's
:laugh: I thought those fender flares were what made the pathfinder look less like a soccer mom minivan
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Second thing, this is a problem I managed to forget about until my CD player went out and found myself driving in silence a lot more when it is much more noticeable. When giving it gas, there is a buzzing sound that comes from either the engine area or under the middle of the car. The sound only lasts while the giving it gas and does not happen every time I'm accelerating. I know this is about as vague as can be but I thought I might ask in case this is a somewhat common thing. Anyways, thanks for your help guys.
I had a buzz from under the middle of the car while accelerating, which turned out to be a loose oxygen sensor.
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"12161216" I'm glad to know that the stock caps will fit over the hubs, I had planned on trying it but wasn't sure if it would work. Thanks for the good news:)
It'll look sort of like this:
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or i wonder if these would fit
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That is very sad news. Mile markers probably aren't any shorter?
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Final product...
Do stock center caps fit over the hubs on these wheels?
Finally thinking about getting a lift..
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by ltsnotme
I thought of getting 31x10.5's, but decided to go with 265/70/15's (29.6x10.43) instead (on stock alloys), and they still rub on the frame at full lock.