ltsnotme
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Posts posted by ltsnotme
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did you just mount it to the rear bumper?
like put a metal bar behind the bumper and bolted it to it?
No, it mounts to the hitch:
I have always kept a couple of 4"x6" wood blocks with me to use my factory bottle jack since I've done my AC lift. Why wouldn't that be sufficient? I've just recently been in the market for a hi-lift jack for another project that I've been working on. I have never really considered one for my 99.5 R50 because it only has the plastic bumpers. I just can't find a feasible way to use one without destroying the body or bumpers on my Pathy.
Yeah, you're probably right. I got the jack as a gift though, and figured I might as well mount it.
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Well, I made this:
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@itsnotme, where you been bro, you're missing some cool trips with SCORE!
I know, I meant to come along a few times, but it just never seems to work out
I'm keeping an eye on the SCORE homepage though, so hopefully something comes up soon.
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Just do not buy the Harbor Frieght ones.
That is all.
I've used those on the stock front springs with no issues.
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Also, the spring might not be seated correctly. Check if the bottom end of the coil is propped against the notch in the seat of the strut.
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We're all so far from each other! There are three of us in Las Vegas, but the others aren't very active on the boards. Shoesnsocks, ever wheeled the Grand Canyon? I've been wanting to.
I've once wheeled in Grand Canyon:
Nothing serious though.
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I had my local mechanic do it for around 60-80 bucks after I bought the part. I probably could have done it myself, but I didnt want to- for the same reason you mentioned above.
60-80 bucks for the driver side does sound really cheap. I had the passenger side replaced for about that much.
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Also make sure there are no cracks in the rubber air duct that leads from the air filter to the intake manifold.
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What size tube did you use? I had tried two different tubes when I was replacing my struts, but neither one worked.
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The stock replacement for our R50 front coils is MOOG Part #81302.
Inside Diameter: 5.87” or approximately 5 and 7/8”
Bar Diameter: 0.609”
Outer Diameter: 6.479” (add the inner diameter and bar diameter numbers together to get this)
Should probably add two bar diameters to the ID to get the OD
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I'd most likely be going with a general grabber or good year dura trac depending on funds at the time.
I have 265/70/15 (~29.6"x10.43") General Grabber AT2's, and they do rub at full lock. Although I don't know how relevant that is considering I have a '96.
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It also depends on the tire and its tread. For any given size, a more aggressive tire will actually be bigger than a highway tire of the same size.
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And judging from how clean the inside of my coil is, im gonna go out on a limb and say its been flopping around in there causing my suspension clunk. , either way it needs to be changed.
I doubt that's what's causing the clunk. I've had that thing bouncing around for a while, until I replaced it with Airlift, and never heard any noise. If it had come off with the metal plate that was holding it up, then it would probably clunk, but since the bolt and the plate are still in place, it's just rubber.
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Bad fuel economy...somethings wrong that cannot be traced down...and it gets expensive...
Our 94 had all kinds of issues, expensive ones, it was more expensive to keep it than it was to just buy a 93
Oh, well I get about 16 mpgs combined, which seems to be the average for my year. I think you were probably addressing the OP at that point, and I thought you meant me.
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Funny you say that because my vaccum gauge tells me that vaccum drops more easily under 2.5k.
I did a drive up to the mountain and back on monday and over a controlled (filled up before and after) 100.2 miles I used 5 gallons; 20.4MPG. I watced the vacuum gauge to try and keep it in the green, My foot was very gentle on the pedal but I was shifting at 4.5-5k to make the next gear run at 3k.
This is actually how I normally shift but my rev matching was more gentle and my acceleration was slower.
Normally I think her truck gets arround 18.5 going up and down the mountain.
I understand shifting early and limiting your RPM but you might also try shifting in your torque band an limiting your air intake(fuel too) by being gentle on the throttle.
maybe you have a lemon? My 94 was a lemon, I'm glad its gone.
Not sure I understand...how would that make it a lemon?
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I have no idea how to do this . . . there is absolutely no power band under 2k. I mean, I follow people that drive like this on the way to work everyday, but I don't think I could live with myself if I drove like them
Haha, I know. It's definitely not an everyday solution. I've done it for 1 tank, and it was pretty depressing. Keeping it under 2.6k is more realistic though, since this is closer to when my auto trans. usually upshifts, and it still adds about 1 mpg.
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Im a guy, so i gun it from time to time, but im not rally racing my pathfinder,to the point where mileage decreases are noticeable.
I've noticed that if I keep the revs under 2k while accelerating, I gain about 1.5-2 extra mpg's in the city. This does make for some pretty boring driving though.
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So who gets the dollar? because i've seen my passenger side manifold and can tell it was cracked.
-Kyle
Nobody yet. We were betting on my manifold, and I have yet to have a closer look at it.
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You are still within acceptable gear ratio running (29.60) tires.
Oh, and it's cracked you can bet on it.
Check this site out on ring and pinion gears
I shall bet you one US dollar.
Nice table. Didn't know angelfire still existed.
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Howdy guys, i see that a lot of you fellows r talkin bout the 31" tires. Im not sure what his had on it factory, but my 96 SE manual has 31's factory, and i was rockin the 19mpg for 4yrs since i owned the truck. unless he had the 30" package and a different gear set than mine, i would say it should probably have 31"s on it. Just a heads up on that. And 1" of tire shouldnt make that much difference in gear ratio. when u get to the 1:1 its like, 400rpm lower with the the 31" instead of the 30" so really not much at all. I do agree if you go BIG then ya. u need to regear, but 1" isnt really anything to worry bout. Just my 1/2 cent on the matter. have a good one guys.
PS im almost sure u wills see a big diff when u fix ur manifold.
Yeah, I haven't noticed any difference in MPGs when I switched from 235/70/15 (27.95") to 265/70/15 (29.60").
I have an exhaust manifold leak too, but I don't think it's cracked. Probably the gasket or the studs.
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Did it Saturday, and it was not as big as I feared. I just get really nervous messing with wiring because of the whole "point of no return" thing. The knock sensor on my truck has been bad since I last owned it in 2008. There was no MIL on the dash or anything, but I scanned it when I first got my scanner just for fun and found the code. Even back then, the relocation was pretty well established as a cheap fix for the problem.
Which code was it throwing? p0325?
Has there been any noticeable improvement in fuel mileage?
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licence plate frame is on the rear hatch so im gonna do it
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What app is that?
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Hmmmm, strange. I have the 2" lift so that must give it the clearance from the frame. Maybe if you went with slight negative back space wheels it would clear the frame without hitting the fenders?
Maybe, but for now I plan on installing 5/16" spacers. I think that'll be enough to clear the frame.
What makes it even stranger is that this is the stock tire size for '96 SE's, and I'd thought XE's and SE's were the same, save for the tire size and some other minor options.
where did you mount your hi-lit jack?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Made it from scrap metal. Jack is 48".