ltsnotme
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Posts posted by ltsnotme
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I don't know if it is since the PO installed it. I figured I would ask here since its the compressor that comes with the kit.
Oh, yeah, then it probably has a "low pressure sensor that automatically activates compressor if pressure drops" below 5 or 10 psi.
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Are they even allowed anymore? Pretty sure that it was Discount Tire who told me patches were no longer legal, but maybe that was just in this state? This was quite a few years ago, around they same time the tightened down on the sidewall repairs.
At any rate, I have not seen any reputable shops around here patch a tire in a long time and the last time I had one done with a patch was in 98-99, when I had a gutter spike in one of the yota's tires. Two or three repairs since have been plugs. I have also repaired one on my own using plugs and it worked perfectly for the 500-1000 miles I put on it before getting new tires all around. In fact I carry plug kits in my vehicles.
America's Tire representative told me what they use is a combination of patching and plugging. Basically a patch with a plug on it that is inserted from the inside, which is what they had on display in the waiting room. It's mostly meant for round punctures though, not tears like mine, as the plug is round. Either way, if it's larger than 1/4", they're not supposed to repair it.
That's just dumb luck there, Itsnotme. Whatever that bar is from, you caught it at the worst angle. Sucks.
If you bought them from TireRack, I'd take the chance and ask them if it's covered. Perhaps you purchased their Road Hazard coverage? How long ago did you buy them, or how old are the tires? There's a 4-digit date code on the tire's sidewall that has the week and year of manufacture...ex. 3412 = 34th week of 2012.
It's been just over two years, so I guess it would've expired either way. I've just read through their road hazard claim initiation procedure though, and it's got so much red tape that I think I would've just purchased a new tire on my own anyway, rather than deal with that.
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Question for those running these.
I tore an air line wheeling (ok, maybe prerunning
) and the compressor wouldn't stop running till I pulled the fuse.Thats normal right?
If your compressor is controlled by a pressure switch, yeah.
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Wow, what did you run over anyway?
I think the problem you'll have is that a tire shop won't repair it. The whole liability thing. It looks like you severed a few of the metal belts. Probably less concerning that it's in the center tread (you'll just end up--hopefully--with only a flat should a repair fail), but wheeling it again may only aggravate things. As a spare not taken off-road? Sure.
Any warranty options? I use Discount Tire around here (America's Tire elsewhere), and they've been awesome about that stuff, even if I didn't buy the tire from them. I've had some unrepairable tires (ignoring for a moment what we think is "repairable" or not) that were replaced outright if they appeared warranty-able (just paid unmount/mount/disposal fees), or I was allowed to buy a new replacement less a pro-rated value of the damaged tire, since it still had considerable treadwear left. They've even offered warranties on some new Rubicon take-offs (Wrangler MTs) I picked up on Craigslist the other year. (And they do free tire repairs, of course.) I'd explore some other options with your local tire shops if they can't/won't repair it.
No idea what I ran over, but this ended up in my tire:
Yeah, America's Tire is where I went (after another shop said no). They obviously said they couldn't fix it either, so I ordered a new tire through them.
I don't think a warranty would cover something like this though, would it? I originally bought these from TireRack. But anyway, America's Tire people were pretty helpful, even installed two sets of open-ended lug nuts (because they weren't "comfortable" putting back the 1/4" spacers I had in the front) and didn't charge me for them.
Thanks everyone, I'll try to find someone to repair this.
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Does anybody think this tire's repairable? For a spare?
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Doubt it. Exhaust leak doesn't tick, and it doesn't go away when you're in neutral or park.. Sounds more like a valves/timing related issue.
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There isn't direct access to that from the engine bay, the only major whole that is there is the fender hole that is to left of the battery.
Im confident it wont be an issue, i was running my old setup for a while, and even with the HUGE whole in my fender liner, there wasn't any dirt or signs of moisture in the area, the washer bottle does a good job at protecting the whole unit.
-Kyle
P.S. Just ordered one JDM power folding mirror, mirror switch, landscape headlight adjustment switch, and a JDM fender mirror!! So pumped, need to find the passenger mirror now.
I can see that spot just looking down between the grill and the radiator support:
It's none of my business really, but I would recommend using an enclosure for any electrical parts placed outside of the cabin.
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Hm, probably not a good idea to have all those contacts out in the open. Even if rain doesn't get in there, how are you going to cover them up when you have to wash the engine?
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^^^Yeah, if you have 4WD, make sure you don't accidentally turn it on, or you'll do a lot of damage to the transfer case.
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Correction: you might be pre-wired with a compass/temperature harness behind the glove box.
I wasn't, so I got a harness from a junkyard and ran it from the main junction. Either way, here's a how-to; my write-up is there on page 2: http://forums.nicoclub.com/2004-pathfinder-overhead-console-upgrade-t543809.html
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Question about the compass and temperature overhead display, mine, being an XE doesn't have that luxury, so was wondering what would be entailed in making one of those things work?
There should already be a harness running from where the temperature sensor mounts (in front of the radiator) to the main SMJ harness (behind the fuse block in the driver's footwell). You'll just have to run two wires from the main junction, along the a-pillar, to the compass/temperature panel, plus 12V. And you'll need that temperature sensor. Or at least that's how it was in my '96.
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I had leaky valve cover gaskets. All I had to do was tighten the valve cover bolts, and all the leaks stopped. Might try that first.
Also, you don't need to drop the engine to replace the exhaust manifold, or at least not the passenger-side one (which is the one that seems to usually go). I had mine replaced for about $100, plus $55 for the part. Not a difficult job either.
And even if it does blow, it's not really that big of a deal. I drove with a cracked exhaust manifold for about 3 years before I finally got around to fixing it. Even passed all the smog checks along the way.
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I had leaky valve cover gaskets. All I had to do was tighten the valve cover bolts, and all the leaks stopped. Might try that first.
Also, you don't need to drop the engine to replace the exhaust manifold, or at least not the passenger-side one (which is the one that seems to usually go). I had mine replaced for about $100, plus $55 for the part. Not a difficult job either.
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Just don't drive past my house:)
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I remember reading also that SEs post facelift vary in width slightly, when compared to LEs. If I'm not mistaken, this is because of the larger tires of the SE? Somehow the track changed, and I assume that's the reason. It would be silly, but interesting to make the "Sports Edition" wider other than tire size.
Yeah, same for us. I put SE-size tires on my XE, and they rub on the subframe.
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where would that info be? Door panel? that one says stock tires are 245/7016
Not sure about the relationship between tire sizes and XE/SE/LE designations in post-face-lift pathfinders, but pre-face-lift pathfinders had 235/70/15 on XE's and LE's and 265/70/15 on SE's. The axle gear ratio is stamped inside the engine bay on the passenger side of the firewall (either HG43 or HG46).
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Check your axle gear ratio. XE's and LE's came with 4.363, and SE's had 3.636, since they came with bigger tires.
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The resistance of the temp sensor varies with the temperature, so you can't replace it with a simple resistor and still get proper voltages at the ECM. From the description of the system in the above section of the service manual, it seems that if you were to install a low-value resistor to simulate EGR flow, ECM would detect a malfunction under conditions that call for EGR to be off. If you were to install a high-value resistor to simulate the absence of EGR flow, ECM would still detect a malfunction under conditions that call for EGR to be on.
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No, I have had my cluster apart and out several times recently and there is no cable running to it. The only "mechanical" part in my speedo gear is the gear itself where it connects to transfer case I believe.. Other than that it's electronic the whole way.
I even have an early production date 96. Born in, 11/95
-Kyle
The R50 speedometer is electronic. The instrument cluster receives electrical pulses from the Vehicle Speed Sensor, and the rate of pulsing determines the speedometer needle position.
Hm, I assumed since the odometer looked mechanical, that it was all mechanical, and that in '97 they switched to electronic odometer/speedometer.
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Nope,
No gears in out pathfinders, the R50's went electronic. But they do make kits that allow you to correct the difference when installing new tires.
MADDDD
-Kyle
My '96 is still mechanical. Isn't yours?
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In my non-Bose system, the tweeters are wired in parallel with the front door speakers:
Probably something similar in your case. It's in the EL section of the service manual.
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currently running kyb struts, and they cant have more than 10-15000 clicks on them. yet within the past few months they have started squeaking at medium speeds, and hard braking, a little bit of silicone spray seems to stop the squeaking for a couple days at a time, but just wondering what could be causing the squeaking, or if anyone else has had a similar problem? not a huge worry to me cause ill be throwing on a 2 inch ac lift in the new year, but i am curious.
Were the bearings replaced with the struts? I had a squeak that turned out to be due to a bad bearing.
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Well, that's kind of normal in 2wd for tires to slip from a stop on wet roads or leaves. Probably even more so in RWD cars, since there's no engine weight on the rear wheels. Giving it less gas is the way to go.
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Is it as easy as it looks? Is it just the 8 or so bolts drop the diff down to maneuver the old mounts out and swap?
Yeah, pretty much just the 12 bolts, assuming you're able to lower the differential enough without unbolting the driveaxles. Definitely shouldn't take as long as 5 hours.
Can you actually see that those bushings are shot though? Because to me, it sounds more like an issue with the driveaxles.
Rear Shock Bolts
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
So did anyone ever measure the size of the rear shock nuts? Going to change out the shocks this weekend and wanted to get new nuts ahead of time.