Heloflyboy

Looks great. I cant wait to see how it does on the trail.

I would not recommend it. I had a jayco baja with the large platform. The pathfinder would tow it fine until I got into the mountains, then it was a slug. Being you live in Reno area I would say don't do it. Remember weights listed are usually not wet.

Looks good.

I like the TX10 idea because it stays Nissan. I don't really care for other ones. If anything a toyota case adapter would be best. I think North West Fab already makes a dana 300 adapter to TX10. In my experience once you double it and put 4.1 gears in transfer case you start finding the other weak links. Good luck

I did not notice, but are they a C or an E rated tire. That will make a difference.

Keep me in the loop. Clockable would be a big plus, but I do not know if it matters since the engine sits further to one side then other. That might be asking to much.

I have this taking up space in my garage. I do not want to ship it but would give you a good deal. It needs new bushings, but I think I have a set of those I do not have shocks . It is a 4x4 parts kit with rear springs,idler arm brace, heavy duty sway away torsion bars and cal mini drop track bar bracket . I was thinking $250. I live in mountain house 95391 probably 5 or 6 hours from you if your interested.

Where do you live?

I use Monroe's or kyb's on my stock vehicle's. I dislike rancho I just threw away a set of 9000's , second set they are garbage. Rancho in my opinion is crap. I have a set of bilstein's now and are a lot better.

It all depends on how much work you want to do. If you use a front full size axle you should hit the wreaking yard for full size rear also. Will it be legal where you live? Full size axles stick out pretty far. Are you making a rock crawler, or something you can still drive every day? Full size axles are not practical for every day use. I only say this because I have done it to a jeep. I would say the easiest thing to do is find the wagoneer axle. If I were to do another swap I would go that way. The rear factory setup will work to a point(with larger springs and dropped track bar), but you will find it's limitions if it is pushed to hard. Good Luck

Thanks everyone.

No. I refused to bolt through my cab which is the only real way to keep it all tied together. It has worked very well on rocks not slamming against truck. I slammed against a rock very hard on the drivers side and the cage moved enough to dent the bottom of my cab. I figured it was a small price to pay for what could of happened without the cage. My family and I were in a very bad crash in my old 4runner on the way back from tahoe by a guy who crossed the HWY. He hit me in my door at what he told police was about 90mph we had a full cage and rock rails, my wife is now permenantly handicapped because her leg went out the window, but she is still alive.(don't let people rest there legs on dash). Anyway I don't care if the exo hits the cab as long as we all walk away from a roll over of any type. Probably to much info. haha

I think I used about 100' I wasted about 20' trying to figure out how to do main bar that runs from just behind front wheel to rear hoop in one piece . I was trying to find a good way to follow the roof line. It was a little difficult. Practice with your bender a little, figure out the bend radius and center of bend if it is not marked on your bender shoe already . Finding the center of the bend helped me out to follow the lines I wanted. I also used blue masking tape to get a general idea of what I wanted to do. I used a Lowbuck bender, it works well but is time consuming. I am a electrcian so I bend conduit regularly which makes it a lot easier. Thanks on the center bar.

Here are some pics of exo. It has been a work in progress, although it is getting there. I was having trouble figureing a way to put door bars in and still being able to use doors. ( I have 2 kids have to have use of back doors). I ended up drilling a new hole in the door stay about a 1/2" in from factory hole. This makes the door open about 4-5" less then it did factory. More then enough room for kids to get in. It leaves about a 1/2" between bars and fully open door. I did test this by putting some presure on the door when open and it will not hit bar. I am also working on bar running below windshield and some more roof bars.

He is right, I have tried to tie in a door bar in the center and I have not found a good way that looked desent and was still able to use full swing of rear door. The inner hoop is the way to go also, I had thought about it, but was afraid I could not keep the cabin water proof when you bolt through the sheet metal. Keep in mind the weight of all that tubing up high. I could use more tubing but the last Rubicon trip with a loaded truck and roof rack changed my mine. (VERY TOP HEAVY). Watch your door and hatch openings for clearances. Mine has held up very well and taken some good rock hits. Good Luck