SantaCruz163
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Posts posted by SantaCruz163
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Is the front suspension easy enough to replace myself with some help of friends? We are all know how to wrench fairly well.
Do guys usually let shops charge them for the install or do it themselves?
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Thanks for the fast response guys
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Since my suspension is absolutely shot and need new components ASAP I figured I would just get the AC 2" coils to stiffen up my Pathy and give it some attitude. I found this package deal on ebay for, I think is a good price. My question is, will these work fine with the 2" AC coils?
And, I was reading thru some threads and heard talk about strut bearings and how they should be replaced as well. When I hear the word bearing, I usually think of a spinning part so what are these 'bearings' you speak of? What is the difference between the strut mount and bearing? Do both need replacing, etc?
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How much are the BP skid plates?
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Just be careful when you are removing the filter off the rubber line. If you are gentle you will end up crack the hard-line attached at the end of the rubber.
Ask me how I know.
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It's already July... :tonguefinger:
Yes. The whole reason why I wrote "less than a month", meaning it is already July. :tonguefinger:
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whoopie! Bring on July!!
Less than a month to go.
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Well, I read that the low speed fan is ran to something in the fuse box, to basically turn on the low speed at a certain temp. Then, a manual high speed. Is there a wiring schematic somewhere????
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I searched and found a few threads on the topic of swapping to an electric fan. But I couldn't find a thread that gave the wiring schematics to wire the fan. The popular choice seems to be running the low speed fan to the thermostat (I assume this turns the fan on with teh stat opens?) and then run the high speed to a manual switch inside the cab.
I would like to wire this properly so I don't burn my rig down.
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I tried searching but come up with way too many results to look thru them all. Even tho the previous owner claimed it was changed I'd like to do it again so I know it was done. So, I'm going to change it soon and am looking for a possible walkthrough guide for DIYers. Is there anything out there? I do have a Haynes manual, but I was hopefully trying to find a specific write-up of some sort.
How many guys have done it themselves? From what I hear and see it doesn't look like it'd be too hard of a job; just time consuming because of all the stuff that needs to be removed.
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Wow. I never thought I'd see another Connecticut member on this site. And one so close to me. I'm in Berlin.
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I bought Denso O2 sensors, a Hastings PCV valve but haven't put them in it. I'll check my MAF and clean it out as needed when I put the new equipment in. Driver's side O2 looks like it's a going to be a real bitch. Passanger side not so bad. Any one have tips to make getting them out easier? I still need to weld the exhaust leak on the rear O2 bung.
I did plugs, wires, air filter & fuel filter all within the last 4 months so I know those are alright.
I really need new suspension too. I'm rolling on the factory stuff and it has about 150k miles. I was thinking about going with a cheaper AC 2" setup.
Then, an alignment job & plastic airsoft BBs in the tires for a true balance.
Finally, Warn manual hubs.
Sidenote: Is it easy to take off the 'nose' of a R50? Having it off would make make doing timing belt, serpentine belts a breeze.
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I have the rarest Pathfinder of them all:
96 Pathfinder SE, 5 spd, white, no sunroof and cloth seats.
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Has anyone had their rocker panels replaced on a R50? I am hoping to get mine done this year sometime because the passanger side is pretty rotted by ther rear wheel. That's what you get when buying a Maine car
I found a place online, hopefully still in business, that sells replacement rockers for Nissans. Here's the link. Is this something that a good body shop can tackle without it costing me a fortune?
Anyone have experience with this?
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Well since I am already running Bosch after cat sensors, will it screw with the ECM if I run a different model sensor pre-cat?
I was looking and the location of the pre-cat sensors and it looks like a PITA to get them out. What is the best tool to remove them. Seems like a socket wouldn't work because of the sensor wires and such.
And, you recommend Denso sensors because chances are that's what the dealer sells?
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Since I probably killed one of my O2 sensors because of an exhaust leak right at the bung I am going to replace all 4 of them. Right now I have Bosch sensors but am looking at other options at this point. Dealer wants something rediculous like $190 per sensor, and being that I'm getting 4 I am not going to drop like $800 on freakin sensors.
I was looking on AutoPartsWarehouse.com and found different manufactures for sensors; Denso, Walker Products, Bosch, 'Standard', SNG.
From peoples experiences, what is the better sensor to go with? My mileage is down to something retarded like 10mpg and I need to do something about, especially with prices the way they are going.
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96 R50 with 150K. Still going strong.
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I seriously doubt having 31" A/Ts is going to kill my mileage this dramatically.
I'll have to reweld the O2 bung to fix that leak and maybe just bite the bullet and replace the O2s with OEM ones...
Is there a dealership or an online store that sells OEM parts at a whole sale price and not at a typical stealership mark-up price?
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i have 32s with 4.3s and get 15 city and 17-18 hwy. check for intake/exhaust leaks. If you have an exhaust leak before the rear 02 sensor and after the front 02 sensor then it will think its running lean by the extra oxygen being fed into the system, hence more fuel to try to level it out. and any intake leaks after the MAF sensor. and some vacuum leaks etc can do that.
I do actually have a small exhaust leak, right at the O2 bung on the driver side after cat sensor. When replacing them, the old sensor would not come out nice so it basically destroyed the threads. I ened up welding on a nut to replace the bung and I must of missed a small area.
I didn't realize that would kill my mileage that badly.
My gears are what ever stock gears are in a SE model. With highway driving bigger tires with stock gearing should give you better mileage.
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I'm been getting like 10MPG and it's starting to piss me off. I replaced the O2 sensors after the cat, air filter, plugs, wires, oil change; and my mileage hasn't gotten any better. I used Bosch O2 sensors and I have mxed feelings about them. Dealer OEM sensors are ~$195 each but I don't want to drop that kind of money on 4 sensors if it's not going to make a difference.
What should I try to get my mileage up? I don't drive with a heavy foot. I skip shift a lot of the time. I plan on getting Warn hubs soon to free up some rotating mass on the front end, hopefully get some mileage back that way. What else can I do?
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I'll try pulling the ABS fuse, but it doesn't sound like the ABS (I've heard that 'grinding' before and this isn't it). I guess I will do the rear brakes and pull the shim between the caliper & pad.
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Mine had the exact same problem last week, the old pads had 80-90 percent material left on them, no mater how much i cleaned them, and checked everything, it still had the grinding noise.
In the end i replaced the pads on the front as a last resort and that fixed the problem.
Maybe try that....
If you read my post you would see that I did replace the pads. :secret:
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I noticed a grinding noise which sounded like it was coming from the passanger front wheel when I hit my brakes. I figured it was brakes because it sounded exactly like worn out brakes. So, I replaced the rotors and pads on the front. Upon removal of the old stuff I still had a decent amount of material still left on the pads. The bearings/races looked fine; I repacked them with grease. Rotors spun fine with no binding, etc.
I have all new pads and rotors up front but when I really hit the brakes, it sounds like metal is grinding still. I checked the backing plates before putting the new hardware on and they both checked out fine with plenty of clearance. The grinding seems to only happen when I really lay on my brakes. I'm going to replace everything in the rear in a few weeks.
Any ideas?
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What year Trans Am? I used to own a 95 M6 T/A. Boy I miss that car :sniff:
KYB GR-2 Shocks
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Air tools aren't going to be a problem.