TugboatTony
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Posts posted by TugboatTony
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You sure your injectors aren't leaking or your fuel pressure isn't too high?
Fuel pressure is perfect, ran around for a day with the tester zap strapped to the wiper. It doesnt even drop when its bogging out
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Sorry, I don't know about that, but I have to ask...
Have you checked/replaced the temperature sensor for the ECU? I understand this can effect fuel ratio considerably...
B
I have, I've just swapped the ECM as well but to no avail. I'm not getting any codes and It's become a serious bug hunt. It's running very very rich and the fuel i'm going through is intense. Not to mention it bogs out badly under load intermittently. The only thing I'm going to try now is to order this resistor and hopefully it changes the issue. I noticed in the dist. cap (being brand new) the contacts are already getting buggered up. Could this be because there's 12 V running to the coil even at an idle therefore creating too much heat?
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Yet another nagging issue with my truck....I'm still getting a gnarley hesitation under load and it burns your eyes to stand near the tail pipe its running so rich and after testing and replacing everything and I mean EVERYTHING on this thing except for the paint job, I've noticed the resistor for the coil is completely frapped. When i look on the FSM it shows the resitor and condenser being one unit but with mine thats not the case, they're seperate. With this, the only one I can find new is in Saskatchewan and the shipping costs as much as the part itself (which isnt cheap). The parts prick (he was a real dink so pardom my french)at the dealer even asked "is it the brown one or the black one?" i replied it was the brown and all I received in return was an "oooooohhh ouch, the brown one". Anywho, would it be recommended i buy the exact one or could I use a combined unit out of a different year? And/or would this cause my problems?
I'm completely stumped everyone so I apologize for yet another answer hunt.
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i have a vg30e and i'm no mechanic so i need info on where to locate it
.Its on driver side fuel rail in front of the firewall.
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i have a vg30e and i'm no mechanic so i need info on where to locate it
.Its on driver side fuel rail in front of the firewall.
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There are two temp sensors right next to one another. One to the temp gauge, one to the ECU. The ECU one is what Adam is talking aboot. The FSM is available for download, pinned in the Garage section for the details and it is worth doing...
B
Yeah i fihured out whichj one it was by unplugging it and checking the guage. I'm gonna download the FSM tomorrow. Thanx again for your help
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That won't make his fuel pressure drop to 20PSI under load.
Unplug the pressure regulator for a few, see if it makes any difference. That'll force the pump to run at full pressure. If it maintains more than 40PSI while driving your regulator is probably defective. Or if it doesn't make a difference it might be time to pull the pump.
awesome, i'll check it with the vacuum hose off. thanx for the tip!!
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Since it only does it when it gets warm (according to your post) I would look into a defective new o2 sensor (unplug it and see if the truck runs better) or the coolant temperature sensor, it is known to cause these kinds of problems.
I haven't checked my coolant temp sensor as it seems to be working. On the guage the needle is maybe a quarter inch above the 'c' line, is that the normal needle position? and would the coolant temp sensor cause it to bog down as hard as it is?
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I know it sounds stupid, but is the fuel filter on the 'right'way? I'd also check the condition of the fuel lines and make sure none of them are collapsing, kinked or obstructed. It is possible you have a bad fuel pump. This happened to me a few years ago. I went through 6 'good fuel pumps' before changing brands, and settled with a Bosch fuel pump before the same problem you described was corrected. My truck would idle for as long as I wanted, however under 'load' or driving it would stall out and quit at exactly the same place while driving up the road. It was running the lines dry under load, but idleing it was fine.Stay away from the Airtex and AC Delco replacement pumps. I wouldn't recommend a Nissan pump either since they run about $700.00 from Nissan! Is your pump located in the fuel tank too?
Hope that helps.
That sounds a lot like whats happening to me, it seems to stall out around the same place heading to and from work, I'm going to drive to work with the pressure tester zap strapped to my wiper and watch it on my way to work tonite and see what happens. Thanx for the input!
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I'm having a helluva time with my 95' SE. I've changed everything in the ignition system, checked it all twice. good compression in all holes, all filters have been replaced, (the fuel filter twice) new O2 sensor, new coil, cleaned and tested all connections, cleaned and tested the MAF and the TPS. The distributor and crank sensor are fine, and the timing is perfect, all of the injectors are working and code 55 on the ECU after numerous checks........yet its still BADLY hesitating under load. I can rev the piss out of it in park or neutral and it wont miss a beat, yet driving it and touch the pedal once its warm and it'll bog right down 'til it nearly stalls.
I've just done a fuel pressure test on it and it runs between 30 and 35 psi but it'll start to bog out under load and drops to nearly 20 psi. I realize this is a fuel pressure issue but is it the pump or something to do with the ECU telling it to 'chill out' on the fuel draw because of an external problem?
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mine drove me nuts too, it just came down to replacing the tach head itself. Now to fgure out why my speedo reads 10 kms too fast all the time.
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Ok well whatever was causing this has failed completely...It is not the tranny. On thursday night I was driving home from brandons house and about 1km from my place it started missing real bad and had no guts. I bought a new cap and rotor and spark plugs and replaced them. It drove a lot better but as soon as it warmed up enough it started again. It is not as bad with the new plugs though.
I thought the timing belt had slipped but then again wouldn't it run bad all the time if that was the case? I find if I am VERY easy on the throttle it won't do it. And somewhere over 3k it will go away sometimes. If you put any load on the motor it will do this. I checked the codes and got 55 no malfunction...
I checked the coolant sensor and the maf and they are both within the specs in the FSM when the truck is warmed. My plugs were white which apparently means running lean.
I know I shouldn't have done this but if you floor it, it will pickup really nice after 3k and go all the way to 6k, and it doesn't seem to hesitate while doing it.
I'm going through the exact same problem right now........I've changed EVERYTHING including the O2 sensor, cleaned the MAF new plugs, wires, cap, & rotor, air and fuel filter. I've checked all the plugs (no cracks) they seem to be burning just fine. Ran the codes and all I'm getting is a code 55. It acts up intermittently all the time. Sometimes it runs great the whole drive to work, then I leave and it sputters, misfires and acts up as soon as I try to accelerate.
Did you find the route of the problem? I'd love to know!! Thanx mate.
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I've just finished doing the exhaust on my '95 SE. I drilled, ez-outted and replaced the typical broken manifold studs and if that wasnt a pain in the a** enough. I replaced the entire exhaust with 'Walker' pre bent pipe only to find out the O2 sensor bung from the factory is the wrong size. I had to grind it off and weld in the proper size. (the parts store had the bung alone). Just wanted to throw this out there if you decide to go this route as well.
Anthony
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Which pump? If the transmission was on its way out you would definitely notice it. Once it starts on these, it usually quits pretty fast.
Try cleaning the MAF sensor (there is a how-to here) and checking the connections to it.
I was wondering about the fuel pump, it does have a pretty loud 'hum' to it so could that mean a dirty sock? or is the hum pretty standard in pathfinders?I've filled it with premium fuel and filled it with a bottle of seafoam fuel treatment. I even took the new filter off and can blow through it pretty easily. The truck sat for a bit before i got it so maybe it'll take a bit to get the crappy gas and/or water out of the system. I will check the MAF sensor though.
Appreciate the input mate!
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Check for vacuum leaks yet? What plugs did you use? Sometimes these trucks won't run right unless you use NGK plugs.
I've checked for vacuum leaks and used NGK plugs. ever heard of the pump not working while heading up a hill?
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I have, I've replaced every filter except for the trans filter. I've replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, air filter oil & filter. It seems to run great while idling and even driving it without any major load but as soon as i go up a hill or put my foot into it, the whole truck shakes and shutters.........this is where i'm stuck, the fuel pump is working fine BUT I cant tell if its pushing the volume of fuel it needs. Being a low pressure pump it could be that or.....does this sound like a transmission thing? I might just bite the bullet and do a flush , crossing my fingers thats all it needs.
Well............not a flush but a filter/fluid change.
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Hesistation is probably not the tranny. It will shift slow, then funny, and then reverse will go out. I'd check for water in fuel or bad/loose ignition wires? Are the plugs properly gapped? Distributor Cap/Rotor?( I know you said you did complete tuneup) Is ignition timing properly set?(Too much advance or faulty knock sensor) Worn bushing in Distributor can cause issues also, but doesn't sound like your issue(check last) Coolant in oil?(head gasket?) Any codes from ECM? Carbon in the intake? (Seafoam or Exxon Techron fuel injector cleaner) Loose/Dirty battery contacts? There is an issue with faulty grounding on the MAF sensor that can cause misfire issues. There are some threads detailing the correct fix. I believe there is even a factory part that addresses the TSB on this...
BTW Erratic tach is a grounding problem or bad solder joints in gauge cluster...
The trans is shifting slow but i thought this just might be due the the age and mileage (240k) It does act up from time to time but yet again i figured this might be due to the age. I still have reverse, the OD and cruise control both work great. The ignition components are all tight as I've been checking and re checking everything. battery terminals are clean and tight. The timing is good and the oil is clean. Good compression in all 6 holes. I've topped it up with premium fuel and added seafoam fuel treatment (used seafoam in the trans too).
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The proper fuel pressure is listed in the factory service manual, which you can download. The link is posted in a sticky this garage section.
Thats great, Thanx!
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Have you changed the fuel filter?
A flush on high mileage transmissions without previous service is often questioned, but unless the transmission is already slipping, etc then it's generally safe. A "flush" today is nothing more than using the transmission's own pump to exchange all of the fluid. To be safe, you can do a pan drop to change the in-pan filter/strainer and then do several drain & fills within a week or two to exchange most of the transmission fluid if you are still hesitant about a flush.
I have, I've replaced every filter except for the trans filter. I've replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, air filter oil & filter. It seems to run great while idling and even driving it without any major load but as soon as i go up a hill or put my foot into it, the whole truck shakes and shutters.........this is where i'm stuck, the fuel pump is working fine BUT I cant tell if its pushing the volume of fuel it needs. Being a low pressure pump it could be that or.....does this sound like a transmission thing? I might just bite the bullet and do a flush , crossing my fingers thats all it needs.
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Hello all! I'm new here and although very experienced pullin' wrenches, new to my Pathy. ( '95 SE 3.0 Auto) I just bought this truck from my uncle in law for 500 bucks and I love it!! Besides the typical erratic tach, it's practically immaculate body/frame/interior wise but it's causing me some serious problems. After just replacing broken manifold studs, the whole exhaust system (including the O2 sensor, a COMPLETE engine tune up and a bottle of trans tune. It's still having a severe hesitation problem under load. As stupid as it sounds I cant tell whether its a fuel issue or auto trans issue.
- Could anyone tell me what the fuel pressure is supposed to be?
- I've heard these transmissions go in the worst way, I've been scared to give it a full flush/filter change as in past experiences this made the situation worse.
Much appreciated!!
condenser & resistor?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
brand new, even re-tested it this morning after the 'heated oxygen sensor code' flashed but it tested out fine and the code hasnt come back.