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maddoc

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Everything posted by maddoc

  1. Wow its been a minute since ive done anything to the pathy. Mostly just my DD while my jeep was with out axles. Currently deployed so not much work is getting done to the car, just picked up a instrument cluster on ebay from a 87, gauges config matches mine and the needles look good. Guy said it worked fine when pulled so we shall see. she is sitting in my backyard right now, battery pulled and put on a trickle charger, covered with tarps to help keep some of the snow off. I should be back in the states around Feb and I want to go through the front end suspension/steering and get it tightened up
  2. Thats not a problem, lets see what I can come up with for you
  3. +1 to above reply, you can do a lot with three things, proper off road tires, at least a LSD in back and selectable locker up front, and a winch. tire size isn't all that critical here local we do a stock tire jeep run, where we take our lifted jeeps and put the stock size tire back on and run the trails, now we also run hard core trails but if you stick to mild trails a rig with 31" tires lockers and a winch could easily pass, especially if your not concerned about body damage.
  4. The chances of something large enough or with enough mass to knock a belt off or cause damage is pretty slim, but since I'm not a mechanical engineer I would assume that the engineers at Nissan designed the cover for a reason. That being said, the cover being off doesn't sound like it had anything to do with your belt splitting. More likely, the belt split due to manufacturer defect or something sharp rubbing on the belt. Hope nothing too serious happened to the internals
  5. If it was me I would replace the gauge. Sounds like everything else is working
  6. From what I got out of the wiring diagram, the Tach gets a signal from the coil through a resistor pack which should be at 2.2k Ohms resistance, being intermittent it sounds like loose connection somewhere, or a busted wire that looses contact. It could also be the gauge itself having internal problems, if the resistor is good, and all the connections are clean and tight, then i would start with the gauge.
  7. glad to see you figured it out. bulbs go out all the time.
  8. Is the Transfercase locking into gear and the front end is still not pulling or is the Tcase not going in gear at all?
  9. Here is the over all, but I can get you better ones if i knew what part exactly you were working on, EX: starter, or TPS
  10. Going to have to pull the instrument cluster apart again, the bulb that lights up the left side of my speedo went out. Figures seeing as how i was just in the cluster last weekend.
  11. I Did that a Little bit mostly just removed the dust and dirt from the gauges and cover
  12. Sorry about the crappy pics but basically the FSM for my 87 says the most common problems are going to be with spark plugs, poor connection at the air flow meter, or clogged injector
  13. 174k but mine sat for a few years in WY when the fuel pump went out. New fuel pump and fuel tank, oil and filter, spark plugs and wires and she started up for the first time in years like she had been running all along
  14. I was thinking along the same lines I could probably make a jig to hold the needle and glue it back together. Also a little history on this pathy, it was a rollover and was repaired by a shop which is why i have a aftermarket sunroof on a truck that shouldn't have one Cool mine is a "W" so looks like it came from Japan. Thanks for the information
  15. Yeah, just wish I would go back and be a little more careful with it. No luck on the local junk yards, none around here have pathy's or hard bodies with my instrument cluster. What I started with. How the needle broke Cluster Pulled apart ODO gears looked ok cleaned up ready to go back in
  16. I pulled apart the Instrument cluster and tried to bend the needle back straight, but as soon as i touched it the 24 year old plastic shattered. on a good note, when it shattered it also dropped back to 0mph and now properly works. I just need to figure out how to repair/replace the needle.
  17. Word thanks for the insight, that was my conclusion as well. If the cable was damaged enough to cause problems it would also not work. i had the gauge off a while back and rolled the truck slowly and the cable rotated just fine at low speeds. My guess was the gauge was sticking. This pathy sat for a few years in wyoming so i would assume that triple digit weather beating down on it unprotected took its toll. next question, since the dash is pretty shot and eventually this thing is going to get gutted and caged. would a aftermarket manual speedometer work or would i need to shell out the bucks to find a OEM replacement?
  18. Haven't done any work to the pathfinder in a while, its been my DD since pulling the axles out from under my jeep. I need to figure out the speedo. It sits at 25mph when stopped and while driving up till about 45-50mph then it starts reading normal and works proper all the way out to 70 then as i slow it sticks again about 30 and stays there all the way to stop and when driving at city speeds. any ideas? i think its the speed sensor or the speedometer unit itself.
  19. removed my neutral inhibitor switch today, diagnosed that it was bad and that i couldnt repair it. Looked in the FSM for how it operates, which is just continuity between the wires so i hacked off the switch and wired all the connectors together for a temporary fix till a new one comes in. Which fixed all of my intermitant lights and wiring problems. Here is how it works when in park the switch connects wires 2 and 5 sending continuity up the line telling the computer that the transmission is in park. when the switch starts to go bad it no longer reads park which the computer still thinks that you are in drive not enabling the starter in park. In my case it also randomly lit the fuel, AT oil temp, and parking brake lights at different times, also would not allow cruise control to come on and a few other interesting things that i cannot explain. Since i connected all the wires at once when the computer sends a signal down wires 2 and 5 it recives continuity, along with all the other gears. PS for anybody wanting to repair/replace one of these they are on the right side of the transmission and the connector is wedged up between the tranny and firewall there is barely enough room to fit a arm in there to disconnect it/reconnect it. Next i need to reassemble my center console and dash, figure out why my spedo reads randomly what it wants to and replace a lot of light bulbs. pics to come
  20. what if the battery is only a bi-product, if the charging system was starting to go out the battery would be low causing slow starts then when the system started working again then it would bring it back up, when the alternator goes out for good then the battery doesn't get charged thus resulting in no power. thats my $.02, for what its worth. as for the idiot lights, even though I had a bad alternator and the idiot lights were on, they are still on with a good alternator. I'm not entirely convinced that its a 100% guarantee that if the alternator is out the lights are on.
  21. Dug into the wiring today, the ducting was clean, and as for the resistor the connector is not receiving any power on setting 4. I also have continuity between the connecter at the blower motor and the resistor for the setting 4 wire which is correct according to FSM. its just not receiving any power, right now i think the problem lies more at the switch or the relay.
  22. Adding a few more symptoms to the Brake, A/T oil temp, and Fuel indicator light issue; Lights come on during the following; any time the transmission is in park when in drive, if i idle for a few minutes the lights go off, as soon as i hit the gas the lights come on and off if im at idle or touch the gas pedal. holding part throttle for a minute the lights go off then come on at WOT, i can also hear the WOT sensor click and the lights come on. this is more of a note for my self for future reference when i find out what is causing the lights, Parts i have changed since owning the car fuel tank fuel pump plugs and wires air filter alternator battery
  23. that would be a dead battery. what i would do is jump the battery off another car and then run a multimeter set to voltage across the battery and note the voltage, take a look at my thread located here as i have pics of what the voltage should be between. im thinking your alternator stopped charging the battery which is why it was slowly dieing
  24. I would get a second opinion on what all needs to be replaced, that sounds like alot of money for anything less than a new axle
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