TacitBlue

I don't have a DTC for knock sensor on now. I can't clear individual codes, only all or none. The DTC for the knock sensor would only come on with varying EVAP codes. I never did any work to address the knock sensor code, but I did do work to address the EVAP codes and sometimes the check engine light would stay off for a couple hundred miles. I'm wondering why the check engine light isn't coming for just the knock sensor code after a drive cycle. I use 87 octane fuel.

I've had some EVAP code issues, but as of now, the check engine light is off (knock on wood). My question is, in the shop manual, it says a knock sensor fault doesn't trigger the check engine light, but there is a DTC for the check knock sensor (P0325), every time I got an EVAP code, the knock sensor code was always there also (P0325). When I do work on the car to fix the EVAP system, the knock sensor code never comes on by itself. The time I had the car at the dealer for the knock sensor and EVAP code, they only got the EVAP code. What's going on here? I don't hear or feel any engine knocking, what's the deal with the knock sensor not setting off the check engine light, but there is a DTC code for it???

I'm 99.9% sure it's the MT oil as I wiped the bottom of the transmission, and around the drain plug and after a day or two, the last couple of threads on the drain plug are oily. I just bought a small tube of Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker - 3.35 oz. at the local Auto Zone. I'll try the method of just back the threads out a little and applying the silicone. I would try the plumbers tape, but I don't want to o have to deal with draining and refilling the tranny. I tried tightening it some more, even with a little extra leverage from a breaker bar, it didn't turn, I hope I can get it loosened. Thanks for all the tips.

You can't use a washer as the drain plug is just a male threaded plug, not sure of the name, but I think it's called a tapered threaded plug. Can you use the RTV sealant with oil on the threads coming out of the tranny drain hole? just putting it on the drain plug threads?

I changed the MT oil in my 1998 SE and I now have a slight drip about a few drops a day. I'm thinking of either using plumbers tape, or possibly Silicone Permatex. I'm thinking the silicone will not work well because I would need to get the female threads on the bottom of the tranny perfectly clean in order for the silicone to make a good seal, but with the oil always doing a slow drip even after you wait while draining it, that's going to be nearly impossible. SO I figure plumbers tape? Anybody have this problem and what have you done? Thanks in advance.

With my 1998 SE 5 Speed 4WD and stock 265/70/R15 tires I get about 17-18 mpg on my commute to work which is about 8 miles each way, mostly highway. I definitely noticed a drop in mileage during the winter time, compared to summer time. Possibly the different blend in the fuel and the fact that my engine barely has time to warm up on the commute each way. In the summer time on the highway not going over 65 mph I have gotten around 22-23 mpg on long trips.

I looked in the shop manual and code P0440 is "EVAP Control System, small leak - negative pressure". Would a gas cap leak be on the negative pressure or positive pressure side of the system? Which lines in the EVAP system are under negative pressure? Thanks.

Ever since I got my 1998 SE last summer, I've been having recurring DTC's. I got an Autel Maxiscan 310 scanner and these were the first two codes I got, P0325 and P1447. I brought it to the dealer and they only got P1447 from their scanner and replaced the Vent Control Valve. About 1 week and 100 miles later the MIL came back on and I got the same two codes again from my Maxiscan 310. Back to the dealer they said the charcoal canister particles had clogged the lines, replaced Purge valve, canister, and blew out the lines. All was well for a couple of weeks and couple hundred miles when the light came back on and I got codes P0325, P0440, and P1448. Brought it to my local repair shop and they replaced a little white circular valve assembly called the vacuum valve. That lasted about a week and the codes P0325 and P0440 came back, I reset it myself, but those same two codes keep coming back after about 1 week. The P0325 is for an engine knock sensor, but since the dealers scanner never got that code (and I imagine their scanner is much more sophisticated than mine) I just ignored that code and figure it's always accompanying some other code like now the P0440. I'm guessing there may be a leak somewhere and the smoke test is my next option, any ideas on this? My main concern is the P0325 code. Is there something wrong with the knock sensor or not? Every now and then I do hear ticking noise at around 2000-2500 rpm, sounds more like a sticking valve lifter though, not an engine knock, are sticky valve lifters an issue, I have only 107,000 miles. Thanks.

As for the temperature sensor. It is located on the metal plenum coming off the top of the engine block right before it transitions to a rubber hose and goes into the top of the radiator. I cleaned the connection and so far it seems to be working fine.

I think I isolated the rattle to the muffler itself. It sounds like one or some of the baffles inside are broken or loose. The muffler shops use the cheapest parts available...

I have a what sounds like loose metal rattling sound at 1500-1600 rpm. it sounds like it's coming from somewhere along the exhaust but I checked everything from the muffler to the exhaust manifold including the heat shields, and nothing seems loose. It does sound like it is coming from somewhere along the exhaust manifold though. Any ideas what this could be? Also I just noticed my temperature gauge has started to go erratic. it would take a while too move, then drop all the way down, sometimes on a bump, sometimes on it's own and then pop back up to normal cruising temperature. Anyone have a similar problem and solution? Thanks.

I know this is an old topic, but I didn't want to start a new thread unnecessarily. I have a 1998 Pathfinder SE 4WD 5 speed. Is the transmission and transfer case all one in terms of the oil in them? In my service manual it has "manual transmission gear oil" (10 3/4 qts of 75W90) and also "transfer fluid" (Nissan Matic D or Equivalent Automatic Transmission Fluid). Is the "transfer fluid" the 4WD transfer case? Since it states to use ATF, I'm thinking that can't be the transfer case? Is it separate only in the automatic transmission Pathfinders? Thanks for any help on this. -Mark

I just purchased a 1998 Pathfinder SE 5 speed 4WD and noticed that in 5th gear at 2500 rpm I'm only doing 58 mph (speedometer) 57 mph (GPS). The rpm seems kind of high for this speed. In my Honda Odyssey at 2000 rpm I'm doing 70 mph (speedometer) 66 mph (GPS). I get about 19 mpg around town and about 21 maybe 22 mpg highway. Thanks for any input on this. Also I got it at 106,000 miles and the dealer didn't know whether the timing belt was changed. Are there any signs that the timing belt is wearing out or about to go? Is it possibly to just take the plastic guard off and check out the condition of the timing belt? Thanks. -Mark