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shaggy

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Posts posted by shaggy

  1. I had 19 mpg before and now I'm getting 21 mpg but would probably get more if I went easier on it. Following the maintenance schedule is everything. Also, remember that this truck has the aerodynamics of a brick so the faster you push it, the more energy you will waste. If you look at some early WD21 gauge clusters, there is an arrow right above 55 mph. I think that is the most efficient speed for a WD21.

     

    That mark might be because 55mph used to be the national speed limit back in the dark ages (70s-80s) of the 'energy crisis'. (Now we've still got gas, but can barely afford to pay for it).

    BTW, I'm carrying a dinghy on my roof. Probably doesn't make much difference around town, but will be interesting to see mpg on my first trip (coming up). My feeling so far is 65 will have to be fast enough (i.e. cruising speed). Then I wouldn't be surprised if my mpg is pretty reasonable (20mpg?) even with the boat on top (it's actually pretty aerodynamic compared to the vehicle).

     

    Shag

  2. For wiring an aftermarket, it's not exacty a cut, hack, destroy thing... The 80s are gone :lol: you can get a harness at most parts stores/audio shops that plugs directly into the trucks harness (not even snipping a wire) and it is a simple match-the-colors to the aftermarket units wiring.

     

    I say keep tinkering with the stock unit if you haven't thrown it under a bus yet though. 1 it's the original piece (if that's something your into), 2 YOU fixed it!

     

    Yeah, thanks! Hey I saw the plugs on Evilbay - is that what you meant? Is the color coding stock Nissan. Even if it is I would still need the wiring diagram(!) Haven't seen one yet (certainly not in the Haines or Chilton manuals).

    You're right on the last two counts - I hate throwing stuff away that could be fixed; plus new aftermarket CD players look cheesy compared to the original.

     

    thanks again

    Shaggy

  3. Hooking up an aftermarket deck isn't hugely difficult. I did mine with a plug that slotted right into the factory harness, and then soldered it on the bench to the plug the deck came with. The new plug had what each wire did written on the insulation. I didn't end up using all the wires from the deck plug. (Also note, my 95 had a 94 plug. I don't know if the stereo people confused 95 wiring with 96 wiring or what, but the 95 plug did not fit.) I installed mine with no other parts except the plug and the shrink wrap. Since you've got two holes, rather than one, you could pick up the coin tray that goes beneath on the one-deck models, or some kind of blanking plate setup. Or, you know, full equalizer setup, if you decide to go crazy with the audio. :)

     

    As for getting what you have running, check (and clean) the plugs inside. Your tape deck probably has either a loose plug between the face and the unit or a loose plug/bad solder joint in the face plate itself. The CD player could have anything from a bad reader head to a bad motor to a little switch that checks if the CD's in there that's worn out.

     

     

    Thanks for the reply. If I can get hold of the exact wiring diagram/color codes for the factory harness, I'll probably end up putting in a new unit. The fact is that my eyesight and my old back will not tolerate hours of under-dash wire tracing BS and cursing. It's always been a pet hate of mine, under-dash work. So finding an original unit would be my preference. Plus there's the satisfaction of it being vintage-correct! Too bad it crapped out, it looks like a quality unit.

     

    PS - yeah I had the lids off both units and had a look. If I find the time and patience I might have another go at cleaning and checking them. thanks

     

    Shag

  4. My OEM CD player ('95 SE) doesn't work - it loads the CD, goes click/click/click, then stops and ejects. I might have another go at fixing it, it seems like it almost wants to work.

     

    The radio/cassette player works, but the LED display has a bad connection somewhere and only lights up when you push on the chassis.

     

    OK, they're junk, but rather than fitting new replacement junk, I'd prefer to get the originals going again. I hate working under dashes, and don't have the wiring diagram even if I wanted to put in a new one. Does anyone have either of the OEM unit(s) that still work? Or alternatively, recommend a plug-and-play replacement?

     

    If you have a '95 SE, you'll know they are piggy-back units - the Radio (with cassette player) is on top, and the CD player is mounted underneath.

    (OEM/Nissan part number for the CD player is B8182 89921, and on the front panel is marked PV705. For the radio, it's PN-9661H, made by Clarion, and has 'CK581' on the cassette-loading door.)

     

    Let me know if you've got one or both you want to get rid of. I'll pay a reasonable price if they're in decent shape. I think they'd both fit into a flat rate box.

     

     

    thanks!

    Shaggy

  5. Wait a second here. Our tanks run 21 gallons full? i thought it was 15. HOLY CRAP

     

    Depends who you believe. My Nissan Pathfinder Owner's Manual (original issue) says 21-1/8 gallons (80 liters).

     

    But my Chilton manual says (for all Nissan trucks) - 15.9 gallons!

     

    I searched the Haynes manual - it doesn't seem to mention it anywhere.

     

    So now I don't got a clue how much it holds! I will have to wait till I empty it again - oh boy I can hardly wait 8>(

     

    Somebody here must know for sure(?)

     

     

    Shag

  6. I haven't taken my Pathfinder on a trip yet. Have to admit I was a bit shocked initially at the truck-like ride and low gearing. I wish they would have saved the low gearing for 4WD and/or allowed normal 5th to be more like an overdrive, but maybe I don't know what I'm talking about.

    Guess I'll just have to get used to the higher revs 'cruising' on trips, maybe it won't be so bad. I like pretty much everything else about the NIssan so far, just miss the effortless cruising of my previous POS. (I don't miss it's gas bill though!)

     

     

     

    Shag

  7. What's "mpg" ? I get gpm! :rofl:

     

     

    Me too! That's .064 gall. or just over 1/16 gallon of gas per mile! (the reciprocal of my mpg figure, I guess... I love maths, though I'm terrible at it!)

     

    Also at current gas prices, only 24.6 cents per mile (around town). Not too shabby.

     

    Shag

  8. Mine doesn't go clear up either, and it fluctuates a bit (sometimes I'll get in and it'll be higher than it was when I parked it). I fueled up yesterday and calculated my milage at 16.3, which isn't much of a surprise as I've been enjoying the skinny pedal more since getting the exhaust fixed. :) Just for giggles I calculated that it's costing me about a quarter a mile in gas.

     

    Edit: Found my last recipt/odo reading, it came out to 21.7 mpg (with less skinny pedal).

     

    The skinny pedal? If you mean ' more throttle', yes that is a danger for me too now that I realise it is not the guzzler I feared! The little V6 obviously likes more revs than I've been giving it. I don't think this will apply to cruising speeds though, which thanks to the low gearing, will have to remain modest (<65mph)! 8>( Bummer!

     

    Shag

  9. When mine is on E i have 2 gallons left and when my gas light comes on i have 1 gallon left.

     

    Thanks - Next time I'll run it down to 'E' exactly, just to see. It was pretty low, though, and I was surprised it didn't take a lot more than 14-15 gallons to top up. Also, my gauge doesn't show completely 'Full' even with several trigger clicks of the filling nozzle.

     

    BTW, does your tank hold 21.25 gallons? That's what my owner's handbook specs say.

     

    cheers

    Shaggy

  10. What a relief! I'm getting 15.6 mpg, i.e. mostly around town (222.7 miles on the clock, 14.27 gallons to top up form just over empty. (So-called 'empty' must be far from it - at 21 gallons full there would have been almost 7 galls left!)

     

    So she ain't such a guzzler after all! Now maybe I can afford a trip or two...

     

    BTW, I think I can assume my speedo gearing is more or less correct for the tire size (otherwise the mpg would be more to the negative side), but I'll still be checking.

     

    thanks for all the feedback!

     

    Shag

  11. I was just saying that I have an SE that appears to have the 29" speedo gear. But if you know for sure that your truck came with 31" from the factory then it should be right. But it could just be off for no reason too... I don't really think these things are super accurate. At least my other car is off by more than my truck and it's pure stock... it is just wrong for no reason...

     

    I get that, thanks. You know, when you consider all the variables: tire brand variations even with same nominal size, tread wear, inflation pressure, any slip or loss of traction, vehicle net weight/load per tire, etc. - you're getting only an approximation of true mileage, at best. But still, we can't help it - we like to keep on top of the numbers!

     

    Shaggy

  12. I took the wife's 94 se out to test and her's came with 31's factory and gps shows the speedo is 5% off so yours might be off but best bet is to check with gps or do the mile marker test.

     

    Thanks. I assume you mean it was under-clocking? I don't want to discover that it's 'out' the other way (i.e. getting worse mpg)! 8>(

     

    I was thinking I might take the mileage off google maps for a ~20 mile trip, for a check. I don't have no fancy gps, and mile markers are usually out of town quite a ways.

     

    She's getting down to almost 1/4 full and I haven't hit 200 miles yet(!) By my reckoning, that's too damn close to 10.5 - 11.0mpg (what my old gas guzzler got).

     

    Shaggy

  13. If your truck came with 31" tires factory it should have the proper gear on the speed sensor, unless someone swapped it out if the sensor failed and didn't put the right one in. There were 4 different gears IIRC 2 for the MT gear ratio and 2 for the AT ratio.

     

    Best bet is to use a gps to confirm this.

     

    Yeah that's what I would have thought. So what I see on the odometer Is what I get. No mpg 'bonus' then. (The tires are Nexen brand but I guess pretty much same as 31" stock tire dimensions.)

     

    thanks

    Shag

  14. I have 31" tires on my SE and my odometer is still off by 7%, which just happens to be the ratio of 31/29, where 29 was the other stock tire size. Anyway, you can check using the mileposts or by using a GPS on the odo or speedo.

     

    So if my odometer is under-reading by 7%, then my speedometer is also off. Good news on both counts - better mpg/better cruising speed than indicated. And a ready excuse next time I get a speeding ticket... well, maybe not.

    (Funny they wouldn't bother to fix that (odo/speedo drive ratio) for the particular (SE) model.)

     

    thanks

    Shaggy

  15. Thanks for all the replies. I would've done a search but I can't see the search button.

     

    Being 'new-to-me' it's still on it's first full tank. Has dropped fast and not all that many miles to show for it. By the looks I'd say only 12+ around town, maybe more if I'm lucky and the gauge is 'off' (21 gallon tank, showing 1/3 left @ 175 miles). I don't think I'm lead-footed, commuting just is what it is.

     

    I'll know by the weekend, when it'll need filling again. BTW the tires are standard for SE 31x10.5x15". Yes, it is as aerodynamic as a brick @!*%house. Oh well, my last POS only got 10mpg around town, so I won't complain too much. 8>)

     

    Shag

  16. Just wondering. I was hoping I'd get better than my previous vehicle, but it ain't lookin' good.

     

    What mpg do you get a/ around town b/ on the highway. Also, what's your highest comfortable freeway cruising speed?

    What do you do to help your mpg on trips? The SE's big tires and lower overall gear ratio sure don't help!

     

    thanks

    Shaggy

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