shaggy

Unless I'm wrong...the reason the gauge reads zero is because the 'T' adaptor has a Schrader valve in it, but the fitting on the end of the gauge has nothing inside of it to depress the pip of the valve (to open it) when you screw it on. In other words, the fuel pressure can't be monitored with this setup(!) Back to the parts store... Dave

OK, I've got hold of a fuel pressure gauge... I can't find anything in my useless Haines and Chilton manuals about where to connect it. Can I assume putting it inline between the fuel filter outlet and the injector rail inlet would be correct? If so, with engine running, I get a reading of a big fat Zero--needle didn't move a smidgen! (The gauge works, I checked it on the air compressor.) So either I'm doing it wrong, or...? I'll continue studying up while I wait for an answer--thanks! BTW, another clue: Engine will start cold and drive 3-4 miles without misfiring. But try to park, then start the engine again while it's warm, and forget it--she just refuses to start and farts around with one cylinder almost catching, but not quite, almost like it's flooding (I think I smell gas at that point, but can't say if it's actually starting to flood or not.. 8>/ Anyway...back to the fuel pump and pressure regulator check... proper placement of fuel pressure gauge? (I don't think there's a Schrader valve for it on this model(?) thanks guys Dave

I just checked w/ the Innova rep and he says nope it won't work on Nissan OBD1, only Chrysler/GM/Toyota. Too bad. Back to staring at blinking LEDs under the pass. seat 8>/ Dave

I only found this one. Does both I &II--comes with a shxtload of connector/adaptors. Looks pretty good to me and gets good reviews: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KID2ZC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?tag=shopperz_origin2-20&SubscriptionId=AKIAJO7E5OLQ67NVPFZA&ascsubtag=50610786-2-1833947776.1442262557 Whaddya think? Dave

With a misfire this bad I'd have thought one sensor or another would have reported a symptom (apart from the detonation sensor, which is really just a vibration indicator). What would you expect a good OBD scanner to indicate, monitoring the misfire in real time? thanks Dave

Thanks, I'm confident I'll track it down, but it might take some time. I'm on a job right now so won't be able to spend as much time as I'd like working on the truck. It's still driveable for the 3-4 miles to work. If I'm easy on the gas, it only barley starts to misfire. Meanwhile, I'd like some advice... I thought I might get myself a decent OBDI/II scanner (I believe I need OBDI for a '95 Pathy, right?). Any recommendations? (Preferably under $150). Also, with all the misfiring I've been having, does anyone think it odd that the engine check light has never come on? Thanks Dave

The new set of plug wires (Beck-Arnley, US-made) just arrived, so I put 'em in not expecting a miracle, but she seemed to run much better...at least for a few times around the block. Clean thru 4-5000 rpm, no missing, but then it started again, just faintly at first, but it's the same miss, starting around 2500 rpm If she's driveable tonight and I make it home I'll go by the parts store in the morning and use their fuel pressure gauge. thanks guys--have a good weekend Dave

Ha-ha! I probly would have taken your $500 last night I was that peed off! Unfortunately I've already checked and sprayed all those connectors with contact cleaner to no avail 8>/ None of them looked particularly cruddy, either. The ECU is still spitting out code 34 (detonation sensor) in fault mode III. To cap it off, she started and ran fine just now after sitting all night. No sign of the crazy missing today. So it's truly an intermittent PITA. One thing, there was a lot of banging and flapping around the driver's side of the engine bay--under the EGR and such. I know for sure I've got a few loose or stripped exhaust manifold studs that never got fixed, so maybe they've gotten to the point of causing a problem(?) You're right about one thing though--I'm determined to try and fix this. There's at least another 100K in this baby! 8>] Thanks for you time so far, and any other suggestions... Dave

Yeah, thanks. Will check it when I can, but getting hold of a fuel pressure gauge ain't possible right now. Fuel seemed to be getting through OK yesterday when I checked, anyhow. After sleeping on it, I think... from the suddenness and craziness of the new misfiring -- like the timing went nuts on all cyls-- I'm thinking crank position sensor. Will report back later... I gotta get to a lift to work! 8>/ Dave

Update: Looking the engine over this afternoon, found a loose ground lead, fixed it--don't think it was the problem. Checked again for bad connections and cracked hoses--found nothing obvious. Tried plugging/unplugging a few connectors with the engine running, just to see what happened. Took it for a spin and it seemed to be just the same, a little better...maybe. Then....came out an hour later, turned the key, and she belched and farted and misfired so bad I thought the timing belt must have slipped 8>/ The vehicle's undriveable now. What the heck happened? Seems like something finally gave up the ghost. 8>/ Hate to suggest this, but maybe 200,000+ miles is just too near the end of the road. On the other hand, maybe the fuel pump just quit... I really dunno anymore! I'll have a fresh look in the morning... Dave

~20 miles away, both of them 8>/ Dave

Only thing no replaced there is the crank sensor electronics, or maybe a dirty disk(?) Worth a look?

Thanks. She's starting OK again if not out in extreme heat. One thing I notice is, sitting and revving motor, then taking foot off gas pedal-- it seems slow to settle back to idle. What I'd like, next time it starts to misfire, is to be able to monitor things while driving. Maybe an LED ignition timing indicator--then I could see right away if it was spark-related or not. Will have to drive somewhere to borrow a fuel pressure gauge, that's the only issue with that... Dave

OK--thanks, will do. Dave

Thanks Red--did you see now I have code 21 'ignition signal missing in primary coil' --bad switching transistor, maybe? I know what you said about the ECU, this should have been indicated before...but(?) Still hoping for a simple fix... thanks Dave

Update: ECU mode III now gives code 21: 'ignition signal missing in primary coil'. This is after yesterday's failure to start. Could this be the ignition coil switching transistor? Or crank position indicator? thanks Dave

PS -- Me (quote): "What's the egr?" (duh!) ...sorry-EGR, yep. Could be. Will have to clean and check it. Thanks Dave

Hi BendRed--Thanks for your input! What's the egr? I'll check the temp sensor. I did consider the fuel pump, though I wonder why it would be a problem only when engine is fully warmed up... Is there an access hatch, or do I need to drop the fuel tank? Could it be the EGR, or associated bits? Could it be the MAF (even though I sprayed the electrodes clean?) I'm thinking fuel starvation, as I never smelt gas so far. Injector system? Hope not. I keep going back to why only when it's warmed up...? Thanks again Dave

Hi guys, I'm hoping for some suggestions for my old Pathy. My vehicle has 210,000 miles and ran reliably till now. This problem started out of the blue two weeks ago: After sitting overnight or through the day, with a short run (4-5 miles) the vehicle runs perfectly. If run during the middle of the day, esp. in high heat, or when driven for long enough to get to fully warmed up (it's not overheating AFAICT) she starts faltering right at or just before 2500 rpm--a bad farting misfire on several cyls--and she just won't rev any higher. BUT if I ease off on the throttle, she'll cruise around town at around 2000-2200 rpm just fine. Since this began, I've changed the plugs, the dist. cap (was toast) and rotor, fuel filter (was dirty),air filter, oil/oil filter. Have new plug wires and a new O2 sensor on the way. Cleaned the MAF sensor and checked electrical connections and vacuum hoses. All look good. There is a rattle in the vicinity of the AC pump, which seems to go away after awhile. I had a new muffler put on two weeks ago. Once when the miss was occurring I smelt bad sulphur, but not again since that time. ECU fault code mode III reads a consistent 34 = 'detonation sensor', but the engine check lightdoes not come on. Mode I is green/red both lit, mode II is green only. This seems to indicate the computer thinks the fule mixture is OK (I think). When the miss is happening, putting foot to floor does not improve anything. On the other hand (once revs are lowered) there's no sense that the engine is going to completely die on me. (That's the only good thing about this--the fact that I can still drive it around while attempting a diagnosis(!) Someone has suggested the fuel tank strainer. I am skeptical of that, but who knows. I've read so many posts like this where hundreds of dollars worth of parts could not fix the problem--and I can't afford to throw too many more parts at it in any case. That's all I can think of right now. Any new input would be very much appreciated. I'm getting desperate, as this vehicle is my work truck, and I am near broke(!) Update: actual rpm of trouble seems to vary somewhat lately. Also seems more hesitant to start when warm--even failed to start once, until I waited and tried repeatedly. For what it's worth, pulling 02 sensor connector when problem is happening does not cure the misfiring. Thanks for any suggestions! Shaggy

You probably did this, but even so it's worth double checking: remove, clean (scrape until the metal is bright), and re-tighten the battery terminals. Assuming a good battery, this has been IME the no.1 cause of clicking solenoid. If that doesn't work, tap the solenoid hard with the handle of a big screwdriver, and try again. Good luck! Shaggy

Yeah, but with the money I save I can afford a new set of fuzzy dice! I hate getting ripped off, especially on S&H. Luckily, there is competition Shaggy

Damn, 4x4 wants $20+ shipping for USPS Priority, for ONE boot ($24 for the boot, PLUS over $20 shipping). Anybody bought 'em off 'thecvman' on fleebay? Seems like a no brainer - total w/shipping $30, vs almost $45. Shaggy

Thanks very much guys for your responses. I feel a lot better! I'll find a couple of those 'zip' boots (I see now that's what they're called), then I'll have to get off my butt and do all the other maintenance stuff I should be taking care of! take care Shaggy

Thanks very much guys for your responses. I feel a lot better! I'll find a couple of those 'zip' boots (I see now that's what they're called), then I'll have to get off my butt and do all the other maintenance stuff I should be taking care of! take care Shaggy

Hi guys. A few questions about my '95 4WD PF: a/ How major a job is it to replace a front drive shaft boot? b/ is there some kind of aftermarket 'split' boot? That would make the damned job a piece of cake. Finally, c/ as I won't be needing to use 4WD for quite some time, can I throw in some CV grease and wrap the boot up to keep the dirt out (actually it's not that bad) until I get a chance to do the replacement. Presumably the front axles won't be under power, or is this considered a critical part, even if only operating in 2WD? thanks! yeah I know I'm a lazy bastard Shaggy