shaggy
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Posts posted by shaggy
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Thanks Mr. R! 8>]
It's funny when your truck starts playing tricks -- yesterday my Pathy locked me out -- w/ the key in the ignition -- haha! It's obviously got a sense of humor (it knows I keep a spare key under the chassis). Luckily I am pretty forgiving. I just wish someone would hurry up with that Time Machine -so I could have a brand-new '95 SE 8>}
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On 6/26/2020 at 11:58 PM, Albeitt said:
My electrical gremlins don't seem to be as serious as yours. Nothing is locking on me, and everything else works. Power windows power mirrors surprisingly all work.
The locks are broken and theres a missing handle but I guess I'll have work for a while.
Good luck with the gremlins
Thanks, yeah they do drive me nuts at times.
I hope yours are fixable.
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23 hours ago, Mr_Reverse said:
If you unplug the multifunction switch(headlight/turn signal) switch, does the park lights remain on? If not, then you have a bad switch that will continue to give you issues untill it is replaced. If the lights still are on with the switch unplugged, you have to start chasing wiring to see what "repairs" you will have to fix.
Just for the record, the marker lamps next to the headlights are just marker lamps. The ones in the bumper are just turn signals. Seperate circuits there.
The warning chime does 3 warnings.
Key in the ignition, on only when key is in the ignition and the driver's door opened.
Lights on warning, on only when park lights are on and door open.(That is to remind you the lights are on and the battery might be dead when you come back)
Seatbelt warning. Only on for about 8 seconds if the ignition is turned on and drivers belt is not buckled.
Factory alarm is a known problem child. Best thing is to remove the driver's seat, lift the carpet and unplug the harness from the small black box and remove said box and adjust it with an 8lb sledge hammer. Take the 2 heavy wires and jumper them together. You will lose the keyless entry, but the other issues will go away. The factory alarm does flash the parking light I believe, that could also be why the park lights are on if the relay has failed on.
Hi, thanks. If I remove /bypass or clobber the little black box under the seat, will that take out the alarm system altogether? Mine still works (when it works) as a deterrent.
(Not worried about remote entry, that was busted when I got vehicle.)
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Hi -- Mine's a '95 SE, and has all kinds of electrical gremlins. Now and then the security system takes on a life of it's own, locking the doors as I'm trying to get in (made worse by the fact of a jimmied driver's side lock and a broken latch, so I have to enter from the passenger side -- or the rear hatch, and break my back getting into the driver's seat from behind).
Also, the alarm arms itself, whether turned on or off. And was going off by itself at all hours to the point I had to disconnect both the siren and the horns. Oh, and yeah the ignition switch is plumb worn out, and requires a heavy hand to make electrical contact, but she usually starts just fine... except when due for a new starter (replaced two times now, in 4-5 years, not too big a deal once you know how).
I'm allergic to working with wiring (or anything much else) under the dash, so my technique is basically just cursing and keeping my fingers crossed until it behaves. Sorry, I know that's not much help at all. Except for maybe the fingers-crossing bit(?)
Notwithstanding said weird glitches, I drive this vehicle every morning and every evening to and from my shop, with zero actual problems about 99% of the time 8>]
Good Luck! (to both of us)
--Dave
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Thanks for your input. The 'converter' that is part of the wiring kit I just bought is, from what I've read, a passive device (brief description below)
Not sure if it's switching or current-limiting, but I expect it's fused.
CURT® 55353 - T-Connector
Nissan Pathfinder 1995, T-Connector (55353) by CURT®. 3-wire System, Location: S1/S2. Provides a 4-way flat connector for specific Nissan trucks. This provides all you need to connect a trailer to the tow vehicle. More details on https://www.carid.com -
Actually, if anyone else is interested, I looked around and found a complete Curt Class 3 towbar setup for my '95 Pathy, including Curt wiring harness, for just over $200 and free shipping, at CARiD.com.
Still appreciate the initial link though, it gave me a starting point
PS -- it actually cost a bit more than I thought. Shipping was reasonable but not free, and then tax, of course. Still, pretty reasonable at $268 total, including two (high and low) ball carriers.
--cheers
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Wow, thanks -- really appreciate it!
I'll give that one a go.
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Hi guys. Excuse my ignorance, this feels like something I oughta know already.
Can anyone tell me, does my '95 Pathy wiring have a trailer hitch wiring connector installed as part of the stock wiring loom? I looked around under the rear bumper, but couldn't see anything like a spare connector or loose end. If it doesn't, what is the normal procedure?
--thanks very much!
Dave
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PS--Code 34 still indicating detonation sensor circuit malfunction. It's been that way for a couple years and as usual it doesn't seem to affect anything, so I'm ignoring it.
Timing seems good @ 15-deg BTDC at 750 rpm.
Dave
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Hi Guys--Well, the engine hasn't missed a beat since a week ago when I replaced the distributor bearing. I had the exhaust system checked out and a heat shield and a hanger rewelded. Apparently the cats are OK and noise from the manifolds not an issue.
I checked the timing in the beginning, and a couple times since, and this brings up a question...
I have 4 timing marks on my crankshaft pulley, with smaller marks (three of them) in between those. The small mark in the very middle I think represents 15-degrees BTDC, which, from what I can get out of my manuals is the correct angle to set it (at a low idle).
Is that where you guys set it?
-thanks
Dave
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Interesting. I guess if the shaft was running around in a flogged bearing, the optical slits could've just been misaligned with the sensor or something.
Yep, that was exactly it. What gets me is that it would run OK cold 8>|
I was so fixated on them newfangled sensors 'n stuff, I overlooked a simple mechanical fix.
When I finally pulled the dizzy and turned the shaft by hand it was pretty obvious.
Anyway, runs like a champ now, and got a lot of badly-needed TLC besides. And I learned a thing or two.
I performed a celebratory vacuuming out last night, then I drove her home and cracked open a bottle of Asahi 8>]
I will keep you all updated.
Thanks again guys for your help. Have a great weekend!
Dave
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Got itchy fingers, so I took a long lunch break and went and got the new bearing (NSK Japan, identical to the OEM one). Had the distributor reassembled and back in in under an hour. She starts and runs really clean, so I've got no doubt the sensor is good. I'll go for a longer test drive tonight, but I'm pretty sure it's OK.
Guess now I'll have a spare distributor on the shelf, just in case 8>]
Will check back later.
Thanks to everyone for your suggestions and help!
Dave
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I just don't like seeing people throwing parts at a car to fix it. The FSM has all of the info, there is a link in the garage section for it.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/
A week to get a used dizzy? Is there not a local place that you can go pull one yourself?
I dunno what you mean by 'throwing parts', that's exactly what I've avoided doing. So far everything I checked was old or shot. I bought and returned two new parts after checking them against the old ones (one of them on the suggestion of a fellow NPORA member).
Ebay parts are cheap and delivered to your doorstep in a few days (though sometimes not by the weekend, unfortunately). My local wrecker has no Pathy ignition parts, and I haven't got a spare half day to go on a wild goose chase. Meanwhile I'm working and making $$$... and asking questions to help track down the problem.
Gotta get back to house-painting now...
Dave
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Christ just go to the JY and grab a distributor or buy a new/rebuilt one. Don't piss around with changing the bearings the sensor will likely already be damaged. Just went through this on my Xterra. Except I didn't change every other part under the hood tracking it
Oh sorry, I thought I mentioned--I got a pulled one on the way that I got for $50. Of course the bearing could be shot in it too, and will certainly have 150k or more on it. I wouldn't put it in without checking, would you?
While I'm waiting for that to arrive (next week?) I'll have a brand new bearing in this one today and ready to install ( assuming the sensor is OK). I don't see that as a problem.
BTW, most of the parts I replaced badly needed replacing.
Thanks for your generous advice 8>)
Dave
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oh man ...... light at the end of the tunnel
Looks like it 8>)
If I can find a bearing locally I'll have this baby up and running tonight... (fingers crossed)
Dave
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With my pathfinder I've put a good amount of money into it but with where I work and what I do it's still a lot cheaper than a car payment and much more rewarding.
Realistically though I'm in the same boat as everyone else and tend to overthink problems with my own vehicle because it's out of my pocket.And again it can be extremely difficult to help with problems when you cannot see, listen, and feel what is going on.
Hope that the distributor is the last thing you have to replace and you can enjoy the pathfinder.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Yeah, I know what you mean. Soon as I got that distributor apart I ordered a new 10x30x9mm sealed bearing(!) An easy fix, but of course the sensor might still be bad. Anyway, I got a line on a complete pulled distributor for ~$50. With old stuff you can never have too many spares, right?
thanks again
Dave
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Ummmmmm, should of checked that thing a long time ago. That optical sensor tell the ecm when to fire (ground) the injectors and works with the coil and transistor. Which is why I kept asking if you pulled it out and checked that the shaft spins freely without resistance. I would probably put a used one in if it checked out ok and was really cheap. It looks like you finally isolated you main issue and soon will be able to enjoy your pathfinder.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Yeah, maybe I should've torn it apart sooner. I sure hope that's it, but I wonder what else in this old gal needs replacing(?) I'll sure be glad to get her going again though 8>]
thanks
Dave
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OK, it looks like the needle rollers are shot, that's what was binding, and the vertical play from wear and damage was probably enough to allow the timing disk to rub or make contact and screw the timing up (I'm guessing).
I've located a used replacement distributor w/ the same part numbers as this one. I probably should look for a rebuilt one, but it'd be 4x the cost... and who to trust? Any feedback on that?
Dave
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No needle rollers, just a bushing in the bottom and a ball bearing at the top. The BB is stuffed. Looks like rebuilt distributors start at $150, which probably isn't bad since I assume it includes a new sensor...
PS--I still don't know if I've found the source of the problem, or just one more worn out part(!) 8>]
Dave
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Had some time this afternoon, so I took out the distributor. The bearings are intact with no undue play in any direction, but feel rough and worn. Turn shaft some more and I'm getting binding, a bit like I'm winding up a rubber band (I'm thinking a ruined seal is wrapped around the shaft?)
Leaving dist. connected electrically, I switched on the ignition and tried slowly turning the shaft.
There's a sequential clicking (I guess injector actuators), but also a very random louder click of a relay coil on and off... WTF?
Turning some more, and I feel the slight binding on the shaft. Wonder if it's the opto sensor rubbing, but there's no marks on the CRS disk. So, what's binding? Dist. is on my bench as we speak, about to come apart...
More news in a bit...
Dave
OK, it looks like the needle rollers are shot, that's what was binding, and the vertical play from wear and damage was probably enough to allow the timing disk to rub or make contact and screw the timing up (I'm guessing).
I've located a used replacement distributor w/ the same part numbers as this one. I probably should look for a rebuilt one, but it'd be 4x the cost... and who to trust? Any feedback on that?
Dave
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Well then its a good thing thus far . Nice
Had some time this afternoon, so I took out the distributor. The bearings are intact with no undue play in any direction, but feel rough and worn. Turn shaft some more and I'm getting binding, a bit like I'm winding up a rubber band (I'm thinking a ruined seal is wrapped around the shaft?)
Leaving dist. connected electrically, I switched on the ignition and tried slowly turning the shaft.
There's a sequential clicking (I guess injector actuators), but also a very random louder click of a relay coil on and off... WTF?
Turning some more, and I feel the slight binding on the shaft. Wonder if it's the opto sensor rubbing, but there's no marks on the CRS disk. So, what's binding? Dist. is on my bench as we speak, about to come apart...
More news in a bit...
Dave
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Well I took a gamble on a new power transistor unit. Once the engine warmed up, the same misfire began happening again--first faintly at 4000-4500 rpm, then getting more pronounced, and at lower rpms as it's been doing. In a word, no change.
One more thing eliminated, at least...
Dave
Update: Checked ECU codes after the last misfire event, and it said 'normal' = 55 (!)
Then a couple of hours later (engine still quite warm), she would not start, no way. Code 21 again - 'no signal to ignition primary circuit'.
I'll take the distributor off next, I guess.
She started and ran fine earlier, as usual (engine stone cold) ... 8>|
Dave
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I don't regret any part I've replaced so far, as long as the truck goes again. Dist. cap center contact was shot, plugs were old, fuel filter was dirty, etc... all stuff I should've done anyway.
I have no clue where I would take it to get a 'professional diagnostics' done. Most garages around here I wouldn't trust with a lawnmower! The one mechanic I knew to trust died just a couple months ago (RIP, Glen) 8>/
I was a mechanic before, and despite computers, I aim to fix this. And I will, with you guys' help(!) Thanks.
Dave
Well I took a gamble on a new power transistor unit. Once the engine warmed up, the same misfire began happening again--first faintly at 4000-4500 rpm, then getting more pronounced, and at lower rpms as it's been doing. In a word, no change.
One more thing eliminated, at least...
Dave
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shoot man , $150 would have gotten you professional diagnostics done and then you would know exactly what needs to be fixed .... just saying.
I don't regret any part I've replaced so far, as long as the truck goes again. Dist. cap center contact was shot, plugs were old, fuel filter was dirty, etc... all stuff I should've done anyway.
I have no clue where I would take it to get a 'professional diagnostics' done. Most garages around here I wouldn't trust with a lawnmower! The one mechanic I knew to trust died just a couple months ago (RIP, Glen) 8>/
I was a mechanic before, and despite computers, I aim to fix this. And I will, with you guys' help(!) Thanks.
Dave
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You might try running it with the MAF unplugged. The computer should go to to stored values then. If the MAF is reading horrendously out from where it should be, the stored values would be an improvement. If not, I'd guess it's not the MAF. If pulling it does make it run better, it could be the MAF, or it could be going back to open loop and ignoring an erroneous input from another sensor.
I've only read about one ECU failure by natural causes (not counting submarine attempts as natural) and IIRC that one was an instant fatality.
My money's still on the dizzy.
Hi--Only time I tried unplugging the MAF w/ the engine running, it just died instantly. Figured it wasn't supposed to be able to run with it unplugged. If that's not the case I'll have another look. (I only got a MAF code once, after I'd had it unhooked.)
I agree, the distributor is a good possibility still. Or the transistor module..
I'll take the distributor off over the weekend and check the crank pos. sensor. But I think I'll try swapping the transistor module and see what happens. I can do that at work today...
thanks
Dave
starter issues??
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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Hi there. I've replaced the starter twice on my '95. Each time the problem was hesitant solenoid action, and each time a new starter and solenoid 'fixed' it for a couple years or so. I'm wondering if a worn ignition switch was part of the problem, as I've always had to give the key a pretty energetic twist to get it to contact. Lately it's been completely unresponsive after sitting overnight, and requires five or six tries to get it to make contact. So far I've been lucky, but I'm not holding my breath.
I'm lazy, I'll admit. Fault tracing old wiring and connectors drives me nuts. It only needs one bad connection somewhere. My '95 has been a great vehicle, but has too many electrical gremlins these days. I'm preparing myself for another used vehicle, but not sure what it'll be.
I wish you as good luck with yours as I've (so far) had with mine.