BrianD

STILL no pedal!! I bled the system for 3rd time! today hoping I'd get pedal ( someone told me I was doon it wrong) - NOPE. I put a light behind the master cylinder reservoir and pushed the pedal..BUBBLES! Lots of em! Big ones - small ones! So after lukn on line from Cardone ( the manufacturer) the guys says nver push the centre piston in more ..or less than, and 1" or you'll ruin the seals. So I'm pretty sure that's what's happened to mine. I ordered a new one from the local Hotspot Auto parts - $209 complete or $132 for one without the reservoir. I'll change it over tomorrow when the new one comes and give'em the old one for a $24 core charge refund. Finally hard to get line wrenches too - KW Surplus - $10 for 3 of 'em. Later

Yes I knew about that LSV bleeder but it's rusted clean off. I bled the system once B4 when a front line ruptured and got a good pedal. There is no bleeder valve on the ABS module tho. Thanx

WHHAAAAT!? NO! I did not know that! I'll check that tomorrow ,..and also check the master cylinder a s well. Like..thanx eh?

Thanx again. I bled all 4 corners and still have no pedal. So I thot I'd check the rear 2 again - no bubbles. I got tons of bubbles from the right front...thot I finally found the prolm. I disconnected the ground from the battery b4 bleeding as directed in the FSM. Uhhhhhhmm.. what now?

oops..I forgot to mention, I broke the differential vent hose fitting off. Any suggestions to where to get another one?

Thanx guys - I did NOT use compression fittings. I replaced the 2 lines from the joiner block to the LSV and found the right rear line also leaking - replaced them all. The torch worked wonders! It took me almost an hour to get the one nut out of the aluminum joiner block cause the head stripped. Turning it with a greasy vise grip a 1/4 turn each time was brutal up in there on my back in the driveway. The weather was "warm" ( 17 C or 62 F) yesterday so that was good. I had wifey help with bleeding and all seemed good( it got too dark to finish the 2 front lines) then I started it and there's absolutely NO pedal at ALL now! WTF?! What happened?? What shud I do now? Cheers

The brakes failed today while wifey was driving on a busy shopping day street. I commend her for missing 2 cars and jumping the curb, driving over the lawn and turning right into an access road & coasting to a stop without hitting anyone. She missing the 1st car by ..??? and inch! I checked my dash cam footage and was amazed. The .avi files are too large to post. I had CAA tow it home. Just finished looking at one of the 3 lines on load sensing valve. The leaking brake line is routed above and around the frame. How the hell is anyone supposed to be able to work on this when U can barely even see it? How do U get a flaring tool up in there to fix it? There's hardly enuff room to turn a mini tubing cutter to even get started! Anyone do this b4? Shiezza! Where do I start with the repair? Too dark for pix.

I returned it to the wreckers this morning but I got the good ignition Control Module out of it first. So Zero $ to fix it. Thanx man

I got a used Dist from the wreckers - $209.00 - when I got it home and opened it - the bearings were shot and a bunch of screws were missing, it had a broken plud and was full of rust. I took the coil and Ignition Control module out of it. I installed the coil into the Dist that's already in the engine - no fire. I left the rusty coil in it and installed the ICM and it fired up. I put the original coil back in it and it fired up again. I put the all the parts back into the rusty Dist from the wreckers and I'll return it for a refund...minus the good ICM. I go to test drive it and get a coffee and my right front brake line blew! WHICH BLOWS! Fixin that now. Where's my beer?

I also found this. I am going to order both parts - I'll let U know what results I get. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Control-Module-ICM-For-Villager-QX4-Nissan-Quest-Pathfinder-Xterra-NEW/401300326818?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3D392b979d97304018a377f12458ff6e89%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D231338530112&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1

Or there's this one ... You save $181! I cannot find that transistor tho. Might have to buy the entire DIST. Sigh* http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Coil-Pack-for-Nissan-Frontier-Pathfinder-Quest-Xterra-Infiniti-QX4-/231338530112?fits=Year%3A1998%7CModel%3APathfinder&hash=item35dcd9d540:g:VvEAAOSw8btZhWdN&vxp=mtr

Well looky here- I CAN buy the just the coil - $20.00 - I think it might be worth the try for the cost ya? http://www.canadapartsonline.com/search/?N=0&Nf=price6%7CGT+.01%7Cshipping2%7CGT+0&Nr=AND%28universal%3A0%29&Ntk=Main&Ntx=mode+matchallany&Nty=1&PN=0+9224&VN=4294954887+4294964482+4294964923+4294961057+4294966788&universal=0&Nf=price6|GT%20.01|shipping2|GT+0

Thanx One spirit brain - Awesome read - and yep - it's prolly gonna be a new distributor. Thanks for the link!!!!!!

WHHHAAAAAAAT!!!!! $440 $$$$$ uh that wud be US dollars! - so once I add our freekn Prime Ministers taxes so we can pay for all those Muslim C*** S** he's letting in, like the little bitch that he is, then it'll be??? $600? sorry over werkd under paid and hadda few beers - While I'm still working to pay for all those welfare sponges. Thanx Remus - good advice - young ppl don't know the value in the advice of older ppl that have been there - done that. I'm glad U told me that. Thanx man..ok calm now. Cheers Ps - been to Texas a few times - loved it.

Thanx Remus - So I can get this from Nissan ya? or the wreckers? Much appreciated veteran!

UPDATE! Sooooo..I have an update on this prolm using info from the Nissan Service Manual and a buddy of mine who was a mechanic in the past. He called another mechanic while he was here about it..no luck for a solution. I checked: ...(Not necessarily in this order): - for spark by removing a spark plug, grounding it and cranking it - no spark - for power to the dist cap - 15v good. - the crank position sensor by unplugging the plastic multi-connector from the Dist., inserted a paper clip into pin 5 - got -0.75 dcv - the ground in pin 6 of the multi - connector and it was good - the resistance of the coil in the distributor and got .7 ohms - the fuel in the tank - Check - the smell of fuel is strong enuff when cranking the engine with a plug removed. - the rotor while cranking - it IS turning when cranked. - the fuel pump relay - it's good - the ignition fuse - also good. - the cap and rotor for continuity - they are also good - checked for power that feeds the distributor cap - also good. So what am I missing? Still no fire - it's gotta be the distributor right?

Thanx Colin - I'll do that in the morning and see if there's spark coming off the plug. I changed all the plugs, wires, cap & rotor not too long a go. Cheers

Got in my 98 Pathy the other day and turned the key. It cranks but it won't start. Been lukn on line for an answer but there's so many things it cud be. I pulled the fuel tank access door off from under the rear seat and cleaned it up in preparation for a fuel pump but then thot I wud try adding "fuel" 1st to see if it fired. I removed the rubber intake and sprayed Quick Start Ether into to the intake while cranking it..no fire. I DID replace the distributor bearings a while back an it's been running @ 99% perfect...it had a wee bit of very tiny miss but otherwise fine. I just spent $600 on exhaust and want my baby running again but want to try to solve this at home if possible. Where do I begin? I understand there is No Inertia shut off switch - is that correct? Wud it be the coil inside the distributor? If so, how wud I check it? What's 1st - what's next in order of finding the prolm? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanx in advance.

The passenger side rear door wires were NEARLY broken but so corroded that there was no contact - replaced all 4 - Werx Great! But that Nissan amp does sum weird S**t when a speaker or 3 go down. That was nuts.

Please disregard - removed the passenger rear door skin - Broken wire - replaced it with newer heavy gauge stuff. Removed the driver door skin - Broken WIre! Now it'll be soldered with shrink wrap...prolly have to do all of 'em. Note to self - never use the cheap thin wire that comes in the speaker boxes. later.

I replaced all 4 speakers a few years ago with new ones. It werkd great until a week ago. NOW! only the right front speaker is working. Got the head unit on the front seat and all the wires are fine. I tested the left front speaker with a 9 volt..I gotta small pop from the satellite speaker in the A pillar but nuthin' from the door speaker. Then tested the left rear with the battery and got nuthin'. Here's where it gets weird ..I connected the front right( working speaker) wires from the deck to the left rear speaker wires and sound STILL came out of the front right speaker..uhmmm. WHAT THE ..?? How can that happen? I did a factory reset with a paper clip that's behind the removable face plate too. Did the factory amp go nuclear on me? Any suggestions? It's an after market JVC KD- R610 stereo. Cheers

What is this part called and where do I get one? Thanx man

Yes - the bearing fell into 100 pcs on the ground when I removed the distributor and walked to my work bench. It was so F***d I cudn't bleev it was still running. I took it apart and cleaned it up. Took the parts in a box to Highland Starter and Alternator in Kitchener. I had the guy install the bearing on the shaft so I wud KNOW that it fit right. He sold me a new bearing for $20. I cleaned it all up and reassembled it, and reinstalled it to the marks I made before removal and it werx great!

The strut towers and all that are good...BUUT! I did spray some lube on the U joint on the end of the steering column while I was spraying some rusty areas and it AAAAALLL went away. It steers like NEW! Does this mean this is gonna fail and I be in the rhubarb?

Thanx for the info on the pressure sensor ...cause it's BAAAACK! again. It's getting so stiff when I turn it won't straighten out after a turn. So U got the entire pipe/ hose assembly that's posted in yer link then? Can U get just the electronic sensor? How did U decide that replacing this wud be the best option? It makes sense cause I've flushed it and changed the pump (with used one from the wreckers) OOPS - I just found the separate sensor but still like to know how U made yer decision on just the sensor. Cheers