Pav
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Posts posted by Pav
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I had something similar with my '05 Xterra. Does warm air come out when the car is moving and then cool down when you are stopped and idling? If so you probably just need to burp it.
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I was just having the same problem with that temperature range when we went into a deep freeze.
I have an 170 deg thermostat and unless you do something to block up the front end, particularly by the fan, the engine is going to have a tough time staying warm. I keep a piece of cardboard with me now for when it gets cold and slip it in between the radiator and the fan then take it out when it gets warm like it is now. Also wouldn't hurt to check your overflow bottle and make sure its topped up.
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Honestly I do not know, it came with a truck, asked the PO and he said the same thing.
Although I do plan on making my own bumpers in the future after sas. Everything is held on by bolts nothing is welded, very stupid in my opinion. When I get access to a welder I am going to weld all the joints to stiffin it up (everything besides the mounting plate to the frame or bumper) the top bar is missing so ill be fitting a pipe in. Then when the time comes i will be selling this with everything you need to bolt on...
Otherwise sorry I couldn't help you out, maybe someone will add to this?
That one is the Nissan stock steel guard option for Canada from '88 to '94. I've seen guys here put a winch on that model.
For '94 and '95 we had an all aluminium version (that I have on mine). For some reason in Canada our bush guards curved at the ends.
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How old/strong is your current battery? Were you putting any load on your electrical system when the transmission when into safe mode? The only time this ever happened to be was because of a weak battery...fixed that and never had a problem again.
If you check the FSM there is a way to reset the transmission computer as well as do a diagnostic check in case its something more complex. Same flashing light principle for reading codes off of the main computer.
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What would happen if you ran through a car wash?
If its properly cured in the sun and its not a problem. Wait at least a month after applying before running it through a car wash or doing a power wash on it.
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Its fun stuff...if you want to do your entire car cleanly there is a bit of an art to it.
You want to start with the roof and then move to the sides and any other vertical surfaces. Leave the hood for the last. The reason is to avoid getting over spray on the hood.
If you want to make it look pro...keep the hood slightly popped open to really get into the corners when you spray. You will want to cover the engine bay with plastic to protect it...I've used cardboard behind the grill to keep the engine clean.
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You should take the scenic route through Algonquin Park on your way through Ontario into Quebec. Its a stellar ride and lots of great spots to stop and take in the view...I took the detour coming back home from the Muskokas once...just watch for Moose
Camping in Northern Qc is going to be great this time of year. PM me when you're heading through Montreal.
Congrats on getting hitched
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am i forgetting anything else to make my truck water worthy?...
Sounds like you have all the bases covered...If you have a spare tire carrier you can mount a small outboard..lol
Good work on relocating the computer...that's probably the most important.
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WOW! Those have skyrocketed in price since the last time I looked at them!
They used to be $175
Yeah you are right...I was looking at those cams there about 4 months ago and they were $200 then.
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Thanks, had to take a picture. PO went from the stock smaller tires to legos at some point, so it's probably a bit higher. I live in the big city, commute by train, so the past five years have been mainly weekend driving. But I've still managed to put 10K / year on somehow.
Hmm if you went to a bigger tire size then your odometer is going to run slower than it would with the smaller set up.
With a bigger tire there is more distance covered when you complete a full rotation...so in theory when your odometer turns 1 mile you've probably gone approx 1.07 if you are now running 31s, so not much of a difference.
I had the opposite problem...my PO was running 235s instead of 31s until I took over ownership and gave it back its proper boots
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If that is the model of truck you have it should be no problem. After checking the link I don't think those lights are going to work with the specs you have posted about your truck in your profile.
You can make your own...something I'm contemplating doing since my brother has made them before...you simply buy the parts and put it together. If you want to have something already fabricated then there are some really impressive LED lights that you can get but you would need to change your front grill with that of a hardbody pickup to house them.
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Bienvenue ... Welcome to the club...can't wait to see the progress of your project. Keep us posted with pics
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sorry to bump an old thread, but instead of starting a new one.. could anyone confirm this brushguard being oem nissan?
i plan to purchase but i cant find any good pics that prove it. i swear ive seen it before in a magazine ad or something online
http://i48.tinypic.com/153tki9.jpg
Yes...looks to be Factory Nissan...that one was my favourite one that Nissan made. I find it suits the body lines the best. I guess Nissan USA didn't offer the aluminium version you can see on my truck.
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Ok I had a first hand look at the PTO box today and it is pretty small. The only thing that is really missing is the winch, all the other parts including the driveshaft and shifter are still there, so what do you guys think, get the gearbox also for the extra hassle or just leave it? Btw I didn't mention this earlier but I am getting this from my local wreckers that are closing down and are having a 50% off sale and I also have a voucher from them that is still valid that I can use. After having a good look around today I have found: a couple of vg30e engines, vg33e, vg30de, vq30de and a vq35de. I am really tempted to get one of those but I wouldn't have the space for them nor would I be able to do an engine conversion with an engine that has 20% more power than i currently have because I am 19 and my license doesn't allow it.
That's an interesting situation. If this is an everything must go type scenario I would use this opportunity to get the money back you have from your voucher and grab something of high value to resell and you get to keep the cash for anything you want. I admire you wanting to create something here but I see the bigger opportunity is to get your money back before they close and double/triple your investment. I would be looking at Skyline engines to flip or anything you see there of value engine wise.
How old do you have to be in Australia to mod your engine over 20%? Its an interesting law to say the least...I'm sure its tailored to the fast and the furious crowd and think it would be hard for them to prove that your engine upgrade gave you over 20%. I guess if you are lucky your 0-60 times would go down maybe 2 seconds...lol...get it down to under 10 seconds
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Good choice
Interested to see what mad science you have planned.The rims are a commodity item so they are really worth whatever someone is willing to pay for them. The PTO box is a speciality item which I'm sure you will still be able to sell if things don't work out and put that cash into another fun project.
From the pics I've seen of the PTO box I can see what you mean about moving it...it seems like a heavy piece of equipment. I'm sure with brains and brawn and a lot of dollies and jacks you can move it.
Best of luck...cheers
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Had to wikipedia what a PTO box was...now I'm very curious what type of application the PTO box was doing on the Safari and what ideas you have in mind for it.
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Maybe I should do my HB as a tribute type thing?? HMMMMM. I still think it would look good on a 2dr pathy.
James
Go for it...it is easy enough to do. I'm sure you've read Rob's explanation of its options
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Fair enough about the '95 integrated mud flaps...however they do unbolt.
Take them off and replace it with a rally mud flap for your off road adventuring.
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I have to see a pic of this...an '87 with a digital trip odometer? I've seen them on the '94 model year but nothing else...talking WD21...all the others I've seen are analogue.
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check, clean and tighten the pins of the maf sensor harness plug with a small pick. most likely culprit. it's happened to me!
wideband was showing the mixture dipping as rich as 9:1 at idle. basically just drowning the engine in fuel. cleaned and tightened the pins and back to a perfect 14.5-15 afrs
Can you give more detail on how you go about tightening the pins of the MAF. I've cleaned mine a few times and know what it looks like but I'm just not understanding...sorry if this sounds like a stupid question.
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Good story...yeah keep the hook...just get a permanent marker and write down the date on it to remember it by...lol
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Oh crap! $500!?!
Ok, now I'm going to have to get a quote so I know. I used to deal with platers (nickel, copper, gold) and anodizers, etc all the time...
B
Yeah I really want to know what the price difference is...I'm sure you will be at least $200 bucks cheaper in Cali if not more.
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That's got to be at least $50 USD
Yeah maybe back in the '90s when we were the Walmart of the North lol. Since the dollar has been at par its been great getting parts south of the border. Canadian prices can be as high as double for the most common things and then we get nailed with tax that would make your eyes bug out.
Its always fun going to his shop...he specializes in 10 second cars and always working on something that gets the juices flowing. You can see some of his work here.
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Getting some pipes dipped would be a lot charge, $120 a decade or 2 ago here. Not sure now, but it can't be too much more.
From what is out there, the Thorley headers are the best bet. They have good quality, design manufacture and warranty and there aren't many options so it is easy to decide...
B
Yeah...you are much better off getting headers that already coated. The cost here in Montreal to get headers coated is nuts. My mechanic just had a set done for a customer and got charged $500 CDN. The shop actually wanted to charge him $600 but he negotiated it down. Bear in mind these were a huge set of headers for a muscle car but even he was shocked.
Question on wading depth
in General Forums
Posted
About the leak that you think is coming from the firewall made me think that it might actually be coming from the floor just up behind the gas pedal.
Since you mentioned its the same body style as the WD21 this model is notorious for rotting in that area...heat from the exhaust pipes that run close to that spot tends to accelerate corrosion.
Please post some pics of your truck