u13turbo

Keep turning key, may take an hour of it, but if it eventually works, it'll be a burnt out part of the armichure, just buy a secondhand starter. Mine does the same thing, I still use it but 2 times in last 3months iv been stuck trying to start for over an hour..... and one of those times when it finally worked i had a flat battery... all in good fun.

Its easy enough to do, If i remember correctly you dont even have to move injector lines, Just undo all the bolts, take the intake pipe off that comes over the rocker cover off, and pull its out.

Awhile ago i chucked some 2" springs in, and reindexed torsions, the anchor for torsions was sitting low and one got bent abit, so today i reindexed again, aswel as bending the bent one straight, up into the crossmember, But now the front sits really low, i tried the next spline up and that made it sit to high... There is a little bit more room for cranking up so im hoping it will make enough difference. When i done the lift, i didnt worry about shocks. Currently i have one standard one and one aftermarket one, done by previous owner....... I can see that the side with the newer shock, sits quite abit higher, so im guessing my old standard one is shot? Im on a tight budget atm, still studying, so were would i get some ok shocks for a good price? in New Zealand. Cheers

My auto is near farked, When i let off throttle at 100, revs drop, then i apply throttle and it just slips for abit until it hooks O.D gear again....

I'd love to. Bit more difficult to do it in New zealand.

Oh really? to find out is it on the chassis plate thing or somewere on the diff?

Yep we both autos. And you must definitly have the 4.8 ratio diffs?

From what I've heard that happens with 33's..

Cheers for that Pete, I think i will give it ago to go 3" the whole way. As for the park lights, should i be looking around the steering column for a feed? just use a voltmeter to find some voltage when park lights are turned on?

Hey guys, got a boost gauge in and connected, just don't know where to wire the light in for it? Also, my new snorkel is 3", should i take the filter box out and chop the old 2" one off and weld on a 3" bit?

Yeah its nothing to do with key in the ignition because the locking use to work and the key has always been stuck. I checked for voltages today, and on the drivers door im getting voltage change as i press the unlock/lock button(around 10.7V) all the way down to the little rubber sealed thingy, so im wondering if the fault is in there?

Cheers Pete, yeah i wll have to start fault finding, thought i would just check first to make sure there isnt a common fault point. And yeah, the key hasnt bothered me much, except it would be an easy steal for someone

Hey guys, my central locking packed a sad, it was locking and not unlocking, now it wont do either...... Kinda bad as even if i manually lock doors, the boot is still unlocked. And whats worse is a key is stuck in the ignition(If anyone knows how to fix this it would be a great help too). Cheers

Hmm.. im pulling 2500rpm at 100km/h on 31's.. I really want to get 33's but abit outta budget atm

Yeah so there definitly something up with mine.... How many RPM are you pulling at 100km/h?

Sounds like a good idea to me

Sorry mate was talking about the little radiator in the box by the fan resistor for heater.

Yeah it does its job, just abit hard to afford it being a student, + road users its a heck of alot more to run than my turbo sr20det bluebird....

Ill get them tomorrow, Hopefully if i find time.

my terrano is using like 16l per 100 kms, I've heard is should be using 10-12l per 100kms, mine use to blow abit of black smoke, so i wound the fuel down, now it only blows black smoke if i pulse the throttle, and it only comes out when the rpms get back to idle. Anyone know what the problem could be? I have checked the air intake, its clear, the exhaust is fine.

Tried cleaning my resistor, and i did find the problem, the radiator is clogged with greasy dust, fricken hard to get that @!*% out of the fins, i cleaned a small area but to do anymore i would need to remove the whole thing, and i dont know if that is easy or not?

Ok.. guess its a new one of them aswel then...... and i still have play in my steering setup somewhere, replaced draglink and left tie rod inner balljoint, but still got play..

I think my idler arm is slightly bent, hard to tell but the nipple on top of my drag link is leaving grease marks on the chassis on the side of the idler and on the steering box side it isnt, so im guessing it is, will that put the wheel alignment out?

Ok cheers mate, only issue with that is i live in New Zealand, and Ebay is a USA site, and since im 17 i cant sign up to it either...

Bugger it..... I usually hang on to unnecessary @!*%.. this time i chuck it away and i end up needing it...............