ImaHokie

I used the autozone free rental compressors to replace my stock coil springs with Ironman springs. Worked fine for me. I put some anti-seize compound on the spring compressor threads and used a 3/4" gear wrench on the bolt.

Old thread...new pics... At about 140,000 miles, my Pathy's gas pedal was sticking. After the engine was warm, accelerating after stopping at a traffic light was a real adventure. I decided to take the throttle body completely off to clean it. Front side of throttle body before cleaning: Rear side of throttle body before cleaning (can't imagine why that would be sticking...can you?): Upper intake manifold before cleaning: Rear side of throttle body after cleaning: Intake manifold after cleaning (I used throttle body cleaner on cotton strips fixed to a gun cleaning rod). Next, I'll try Seafoam to see if I can get more junk removed that I couldn't reach. The job took a bit longer than planned because the rubber air duct connecting to the throttle body cracked as I removed it...I had to wait a few days for the new part to arrive from Courtesy Parts. No more sticking gas pedal! I can't say I've really seen any mpg improvement. Any increase in power? Not really sure about that; I usually think my power is better after washing & waxing the outside. But the fixed gas pedal has been great. Thanks to the previous posters that helped me figure out what was causing the sticky situation!

The stock center caps (at least mine) don't fit after the Warn hubs are installed because the Warns stick out too far. The original poster on this thread shows a different style cap - he cut the center out to allow it to be used with the Warn hub. I think my caps are too small to cut out the center. Good luck!

I'm interested in this topic too. I'm planning to buy the Cooper AT3's within the next month (265/70/15). Did you know Cooper has a rebate offer going through early November? I think it's $75 on a set of four.

I thought I'd add a few pics from my Warn hub install showing the C-clip. I definitely think this is an upgrade to the Pathy. The previous posters provided some great info that helped with my install. Dust cap off - showing C-clip. C-Clip Drive flange removed, showing groove on CV axle for C-clip My biggest problem was getting the C-clip back on after putting the 1st part of the Warn hub on. The axle kept getting pushed in, covering up the C-clip groove. After several attempts, I finally got it lined up correctly...and got that good "snap" sound when the C-clip seated in its groove. On my '97 Pathy, the original studs were long enough that I didn't need to replace them. I'd bought replacement bolts just in case the Pathy's original studs were too short for the Warn hubs. Final product...

Showing my ignorance here... I tried checking this out on my R50, but I had difficulty removing the black cover (blower box?). I think I got all the screws off (after getting the glove box off), but the lower half of the box seemed stuck at the bottom. Didn't want to break it so I bailed. Is it supposed to come off after the four 10mm screws are removed...or am I missing something? Thanks! By the way...this thread explains why the fan only worked on "high" on my first pathfinder (my old '88... R.I.P.). Pretty cool to find that out after all these years.

Verrry nice. Convenient access to the oil filter...gotta love that! I'll be getting one from you (just the front skid plate) this summer. Thanks!

I'm looking to replace the plastic splash guard on my '97 Pathfinder with a steel skid plate. Would the one sold at 4X4parts.com be a good choice? Are there others that may be better choices? Here's the one I was thinking about https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-front-skid-plate-p-3445.html Thanks for any information!