Formerly_94PathyMan
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Posts posted by Formerly_94PathyMan
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From one new member to another, welcome. I have been a member since January, it is great, found a grip of great information. You found a great place. Ohh, and your pathy, will do better than the king cab...I am biased...LOL
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Happy Easter from the Prairies, where spring has finally shown up!
Happy Easter to all from the Rocky Mountains.
Be safe!
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Aurora/Denver here, where are all the Rocky Mountain Runner's at?
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quiet would be nice, but whats another good starter caliber besides the 22? My friends already have a few of those.
14 mags are fun, they can shoot for almost the same distance as the 22 but they pack a little more punch but heavier bullet, so I am told. They are great for shooting the heads off prarie dogs froma distance. That was fun, we were about 150 yards off and got one easy. Other than that, 30-30 if you want a versatile hunting/shooting gun. Or you could go with a 270, but that is a little more than a 30-30, but it works. Buy used, you can pick up a decent 30-30 for cheap and the bullets are not that expensive.
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Zmax
in The Garage
I fully intend to... when... well, one when I have the time (she's my daily driver, I work (currently) a full time AND a part time job, am a full time student, and am planning a wedding) and the money (wedding... school... necessities...)Problem is, I don't think I have the technical know-how to do it... I'm deathly afraid to take the top end of my engine off... again...
Did it once... my mechanic nearly backhanded me with a torque wrench when I begged him to come over and help me put it back together! Granted, that was a few years ago and I didn't know jack-all about the truck... but still...
Have you ever purchased a Haynes or Chilton FSM? Those things are step by step and as long as you mark where each bolt goes, and be really careful of sensors and wires, you are golden. I did a low end rebuild my first day on the job at the shop I used to work at, and I had only ever changed oil, plugs, belts, hoses, and brakes up to that point. They are really handy. I got like thirteen of them damn things, Honda, Toyota, Nissan, they all are sold at Napa.
And to find it, just look it up online. My brother and I get it at a gas station in the boonies, they carry it for the Hot Rodders out there. I just google it though.
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Zmax
in The Garage
Thats what I thought.... I just wanna get rid of the gunk and nastiness that builds up under valve covers w/o taking them off....Get yourself some Redline oil, it is expensive, but man that stuff works. My brother was using it in his Eclipse turbo, and man the turbo stopped losing oil, the internals looked new, even the cylinder walls looked new. The valve cover looked new, that stuff rocks. It even cleaned the dipstick. You could see where the old oil had been burned on from age, and it looked new where the oil sat on the dipstick. It was an eye opener.
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Have you checked your ignition timing in respect to the detonation sensor? It should be 15 degrees. I had that same problem after doing my T-belt, and that is all it was. Also, try resetting the system completely and see if the code comes back. On mine I had it coming on and then off and then on, and I cleared the codes and it has been three weeks now, no code. I would clear it first and see what you come up with. To clear it, get the engine running, turn the selector on the ECU under the pass. seat all the way to diagnostics, wait for both lights to flash four times then turn it all the way the other direction. That will clear all codes, then you can see what is truly wrong with your truck. Hope this helps
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Nice ride, wish mine was already lifted...GRRRRR...LOL! Good things come to those who wait, but yours looks great bro!
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is that the one on top? if so then yea thats where mine split
Sometimes it could be as simple as a vacuum problem, or even the Valve went bad. Let me know if you need one, I got an extra one laying around now. To test a valve itself, get a vacuum pump and hook it to the valve, if you apply vacuum and it works then it is something else. I found out that the way the system works on these is the pressure from the EGR tube to the valve is pushed into a smaller pipe leading to the VVT valve, which tells the sensor when to activate the vacuum to get the EGR to open. If that tube is bad, broken, or clogged, that can happen. I would try taking that little tube off, 12mm line wrench, and blow through it, if you can move to the next thing, the VVT valve. I can't remember what the procedure is for that, but i can look it up for you if you need me to. Let me know if any of this works.
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All plug wires arc.... tested that right away cause i didnt want it to be something that simple to be the problem....
I will probably look at my timing belt and everything this weekend... for me i got no school next week(spring break) and i am not doing anything so i am gonna try to do as much as i can on the car next week...
Have you even checked the fuel filter up in the engine bay? Do you have any sensors unplugged? I would start with backtracking whatever it was you were doing when you were originally working on it. If none of that works, I am guessing maybe you slipped a tooth. I read somewhere, don't ask me where, that on the older ones, if the springs weren't replaced on the timing adjuster, then sometimes they either slipped or broke all together and you could slip a tooth or more. That doesn't necessarily mean you bent a valve, usually not, but it can happen. What exactly were you working on in the first place?
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Ok, any other suggestions? Any ideas on how to get this cheaper? I am going to the junk yard this weekend to see if I could find one maybe wrecked that already has all this on it. I will still need shocks, but if I can get the UCA's and the springs for cheap, I will buy some rancho's or bilsteins. Just wanted to keep the thought alive.
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Yeah, looking back on it, kinda a stupid question. I just thought it would be sweet to have a turboed pathfinder, or take a supercharged 3.5 out of an xterrra and throw it in there, that would have been cool too. Anyways, I know of one I saw on Youtube about a turbo'd pathy, but their engine bay looked funny, and hard to work on. I thought about the supercharger, but again, hard to work on. So I scrapped it, I will stick with the VG30 for now, maybe rebuild it in the future and shave down the heads a mil or so to give a few more ponies without ruining the engine. I could always balance the thing out and port and polish too, but that is too much for someone like me. I just wanted to talk about something interesting, thanks for all the replies.
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Hey I was looking at engines today, don't need one or anything, mine has 217k on it and was just curious to see what I might be looking at down the road...Anyways, back to the question. Has anyone ever slapped a 3.5 in one a WD21? Or how bout the VG30E Turbo out of an 85-89 300? Just curious, cuz either one of those would be sweet.
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The 3" superlift hardbody UCA's fit our trucks right? No mods or anything needed?
Im hopefully going to be getting a pair for CHEAP
There should be no mod needed to put a new control arm on, it just gives you a different angle on the ball joint so if you crank your T-bars, you won't burn through that upper joint in no time. Also, yes they fit ours, the HB had the same front suspension as the pathfinder, the rear is different. Hope this helps.
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My question was about the EGR valve itself. I have all the tubes, just need the EGR valve. I am ordering one for the 94 exc. auto to put on my automatic and hopefully it works. If anyone has any hints, clues, or thoughts, keep em comin. Thanks again.
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Anybody? Anyone know if the ones for the M/T will work for the A/T? I am in a bit of a pinch since I might have to order it offline in order to save some money here. I have to get this done ASAP, I might just do it and hope for the best.
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so, what yer saying is.......... you don't have all the smog stuff on yer pathy? what are you missing?
i am sure i have a spare egr tube somewhere........ and i need $$
Well I got an EGR off ebay but they sent me the wrong one, I need the one with the second bung that goes to the VVT valve. I was wondering if there is any difference in the one's made for the Calif. emissions or not. I look them up online and they all have the same part number to them so what is different?
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Hey all, I am having problems getting an EGR for a 94 that is not Calif. I need to know what would it do if I put the one for the Calif. EXC. auto on my non calif. auto? Is it really going to hurt it? What will it do, make it run leaner? I got one, but it didn't have the second bung for the VVT valve and now I can't get my damned check engine light to go off and I have to get emissions by the end of the month. Help please, and quick, I am going crazy....Who knew these parts are so darn expensive! Also, could I bypass the VVT valve so it doesn't play a part? I really need some quick thinking here.
Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.
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Hey, I was just thinking about the lift and had a curious question. Is there anything with the steering, brake lines, or drivetrain that I have to worry about? I just want to know what all I am going to need to make this affordable yet fully functional. Don't know why I didn't ask that in the first place, but hey, it happens.
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so what year coils off the zj are good for the pathy's
Correct me if I am wrong but I thought it was the 93-97 JGC with the V8. I am a little bit of a noob when it comes to nissan's, ask me just about anything you need about a honda, but I am just starting out. Any of those should work according to the stock dimensions and spring rate. Hope this helps.
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Well, I called and asked the guy, he said they measure out at a .54, but I did some research and found that they should be the .52's, but they might have put a different year on the truck when they had to change them...maybe! I could just be finding some b.s. info. Anyway, thanks for the link, and keep the advice coming!
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Ok, I found the upper control arms, all shocks, and other stuff, thanks zepplin (we need to go out wheeling when I get this thing up and going!), and I found a pair of front springs from a 97 JGC v8, and the best part...they are almost brand spankin new due to an accident a few weeks before this one. The entire rear end of this thing is missing. I guess what I am asking is, should I change out the T-bars, or is it simply "ok" to crank the t-bars while I build the money to put a more in depth suspension under her. I have been searching for weeks now and still cannot find any HooHaa centerlinks...
...but in time it shall come to pass. Anyway, help me out here guys. Can you tell me if it is reliable enough to go out every great once in a while to go hunting in the Rockies, or is it something purely cosmetic and won't give me any advantage at all? I am fairly new to modding up 4x4's, used to tweak with little tuner cars, but decided to grow up to something more adventurous. Any advice is great...school me please. Thanks in advance! -
Hello everyone, just wanted to post this and say Hi. I am a mechanic of sorts, worked in shops, tire shops, home, fields, you name it I have probably done something to a car there. I purchased a 1994 Nissan Pathfinder, not sure if it is XE/LE/SE, since the badgework is gone and the vin just lists it as all three. I have not gotten anything really done to it yet, but am looking for a budgeted way to get a decent 2 or 3" lift, new steering set up, and maybe down the road get a little more invested with a dual triangulated suspension for a true crawler. Not sure yet. I am new to Nissan, always had Honda cars, but I am loving my Pathfinder. I got it in 2006 right before we got a big snow storm, and even though it has 235/75R15's and a slightly sagged suspension and over 200k miles, it found itself a path to and from work. I guess I am writing this for a couple reasons. See what kind of advice I could get for a reliable and inexpensive lift, and also just to give a little background. Thanks for looking.
SE Vs. EX
in The Garage
Posted · Edited by 94Pathyman
Well I have a Pathy, no badge work whatsoever, so I don't know what it is other than this, LSD, 4.6's, disc all around, auto, lego's, PW, PM, PS, PDL, Sunroof, Tire carrier, Adj. shocks, A/C, 4X4, leather seats, it had the upgraded stereo in it with the amp, but when I got it, it was no longer hooked up. So how do I know what it is since you could mix and match stuff. I do not have chrome trim, bumpers, mirrors, sidemarkers, etc. So does that mean it is an XE. I do not really care either way, but I love my truck. This thing has gotten me more places than I imagined it would, got it stuck once in snow, but you couldn't tell how deep it was and got high centered. Either way, what do you guys think it is?