SRN

I did some investigating out at the junkyard this weekend and determined that swapping the internal bracketry probably wasn't worth the hassle. So I think I'm going to go with moving the spare outboard a bit and putting the carrier inboard.

When you did your's, how did you install the lower, inner bracket?

I'm not too concerned with the outer bracketry as I've got access to a CNC machine and the genius who runs it could easily fab up some reverse brackets for me. Its the inner mount points that I'm concerned with. The upper one seems easy enough to get to with all the interior paneling off, but the lower one looks like a pain. How bad was it? I was planning on reconfiguring how the latch release works so that I could have the tire more outboard. I'll have to come up with something different regardless of what I end up doing because the latch will be in the way however. The Expedition One stuff is interesting, but I don't like them nearly as much as the Scepter MFC's. Thanks for the recomendation, though.

I just went out and looked (rain let up) and no, there are no reinforced points already there, but they look like the could be installed from right to left. Just be a bit interesting doing the lower one. I'll head out to one of the junk yards this weekend and see what it takes to strip it out. It'll give me an idea of how hard it would be to put one in. My other thought was similar to that Terrrano carrier, but move the wheel to the drivers side and put the Scepter cans closer to the hinge. I'd rather have the tire hanging out there on the end and the ~100lbs of weight between the three cans and mount on the inside. We'll see what I come up with.

I'm looking to modify my swing away spare tire rack to fit a couple Scepter cans and I was thinking, are there hard points on the drivers side like there are on the passenger side? If there are, I could theoretically have two smaller racks on the back, thus reducing the amount of weight placed on the one. Kinda like what you see on some FJ-40 Cruisers. If anyone knows, that'd be great!

I'm no expert, nor did I stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. BUT from my experiences here in Utah I would not inform my insurance policy about any modifications as if you ever filed a claim, they could easily say it was due to the modifications. This would allow them to give you a much lower amount on any claim. That said, if you don't inform them, they could also say that you never told them about the modifications and therefore give you nothing. Again, no expert, but these are things that I've heard about happening here. it's kinda lose, lose. Maybe someone with more knowledge will pipe up though.

As others have said, try a pick-n-pull type place. You're starting to see more and more R50's show up as they are reaching "that age" (10-15 years).

Congratulations on doing the work yourself! Even though my dad forced me to do my first spark plug change at the point of a ratchet when I was about seven, I still sometimes scratch my head the first time I look under the hood of a new vehicle. And that number six plug can be a bit daunting. I've found that the spark plug tool in the factory tool set makes getting the number six plug out a cinch.

Is there a benefit to this skid plate over the stock WD21 one?

Found the answer. Yes, you can. Gear set is about $350 and has to be ordered from Australia.

Does anyone know if you can take an ARB locker with 33 spline side gears and change them to 31 spline?

Thanks guys.

I'm hoping someone can clear this up for me. I have a 95 XE V6 with a H233b rear end. Is this a 31 spine rear or a 33 spline?

Rob, perhaps you know this. On the 28 splines that I got from James one of the inner components has a bad bearing. Its "usable", but by no means optimal. Does Nissan offer just that inner component for replacement?

The 27 spline ones that James has are from a '93 D21 with the KA24D. I know, I pulled them.

According to other posts in this thread, the ECU, MAF, TPS and O2 swap from a M30 has the potential to smooth out your power delivery and improve performance some. This is what I'm looking for and am hoping that the OP might have further details about how his swap went.

Any updates with this? After a few long distance treks pushing to keep up with a supercharged Tacoma up mountain passes, it'd be nice to have a little smoother power delivery. If the M30/Z32 ECU swap could provide that, that would be great as long as it doesn't hurt my off-road performance.

I installed a B&M Transmission Fluid cooler and now I'm having a strange thing occur with the fluid level and I was hoping for some insight. When the vehicle is cool, the dip stick shows full (top of cool level marker). When the vehicle is hot, the fluid level is WAY high. Far above the hot marker. This is even after I let it sit for a few minutes to allow the fluid to flow back into the pan. Anyone have an idea about whats up? Should I just go with the cool marker and assume all is well?

Are there any out there that are a direct replacement without the transmission cooler built in that people have found? Summit shows two, but the both have the transmission cooler built in.

Recommend a manufacturer?

Im going to be putting in an external transmission oil cooler and I'm thinking that it might also be beneficial to replace the original radiator as well. On other vehicles in the past I've gone to dual core aluminium numbers, and I'm thinking the same with the Pathfinder. Does anyone have recommendations for aftermarket radiators?

Good to know, thank you.

There seems to be a lot written about this topic here, but not a whole lot that is definitive. I'm hoping someone can provide me with a few concise answers: Dimensions: What physical size should I be looking for? Rating: Both GVW and BTU I'm partial to the B&M units, but I want to make sure I am getting the right one. There was a post a couple years back where someone had installed one, but he no longer appears to be active. So has anyone else installed a B&M cooler? EDIT: Never mind, found it. B&M Model # 70268. 13,000 BTU.

I have done a fair amount of searching and I have found that the early, 90amp Maxima alternators bolt right in after you've swapped out the pulley. What about the later 125amp alternator out a ~'95 Maxima? I've read that this will work, but not whether it is a plug and play situation (which is what I'm looking for).

I'm not running an R50, but I went HD for the springs and OME Nitro Charger shocks on all four corners. Ride is night and day over stock. Much smoother and a lot more stable.