snowboard419
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Posts posted by snowboard419
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I would look for vacuum leaks first, it would explain the rich fueling as the o2 is seeing a lot of extra oxygen, and pushing on the brakes uses some stored vacuum from the booster and an additional leak could lead to a stall.
Take a spray bottle of water and spray everything in on or around the intake manifold, ON A COLD ENGINE, and see if you can hear any hissing. If you have a leak you will be able to hear it this way.
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Perhaps the 3rd pump I order will work
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Yes very glad it failed the way it did, and not pump a bunch of crud through the engine. I disassembled the one that blew chunks( may or may not have contributed to the failure ). I will definitely disassemble and test fit once I find a pump that does not show up in the mail like this
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Take a good look at the flywheel ring gear, if it is chewed up it can cause the starter to not engage. Also make sure the voltage getting to the starter is proper while trying to crank, both on the big terminal and the crank signal wire. I am not familiar with the TD but if it uses the solenoid to engage the starter pinion gear and it is not getting proper voltage that would also cause this. try using a jumper wire to apply battery voltage to the small signal wire and see what happens.
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It was the hitachi brand off of rock auto which they listed as the oem mfg. I ordered a different brand to replace it. Still not sure if it was the pump or the installer, just glad the pump was the only damage.
New pump should be here early next week so hopefully we will be up and running next weekend.
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I don't know what happened, everything went together so smooth,and the engine barred over very smooth after everything was put on.
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The good, the bad, the ugly and the good.
The good... engine is installed, hooked up and ready to go.
The bad... after much cranking, priming, doing every thing I can I don't have any oil pressure.
The ugly... this is my brand spanking new oil pump
The good... nothing else seems to be damaged.
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So the turbo should be fine as long a the piston didn't blow apart. The heads should be good on the blown up engine, just clean out the oil passages really good.
I have not tore it down any further than the oil pan but it looks like the block, and heads survived. Hell the crank only has one ding in a counterweight, it might even live to see another day. And with all of the parts I now have laying around my 91 wont have to wait too long for an engine either. I could damn near pull that one head, swap a piston out and put the thing back together, but that might be a bit on the risky side.
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I have had very poor luck with reman alternators in another vehicle I own, not lasting longer than 3 months or so. I replaced the rectifier and voltage regulator myself and have not had another problem.
+100 on the splash guards.
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#2 rod bearing and subsequent rod failure.
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So the old engine is out, I have to swap a few parts around,install the clutch. And might have to re seal the transmission.
I also found the failure in the blown up engine.
Take a guess, I will post the pics of the carnage later this evening. If you can also guess the cyl number you get bonus points
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I have everything I need in place for the swap. I hauled the 95 home so I can have some time to work with it. I have got the front diff pulled, and hope to have the old engine out by sunday.
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There is schematic here http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Hardbody/Diesel%20Engine%20Supplement/ . Block either between the exhaust manifold and egr. or between egr and intake manifold.
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Around here there are not many diesels so finding that info might take some time.
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I have the fuel rails installed and leak tested, looks like the fuel pressure regulator has been adjusted to around 50-60 psi via testing with my air compressor regulator so not sure if its accurate. I got some new gates fuel line to replace all the rubber sections. I also have a new stage 2 clutch in the mail that should be here soon. The only thing I need now is time to actually do the swap. And I also need to get a wideband o2 for tuning but that is going to have to wait for a bit.
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Did you do all the above work yourself or have someone do it? If you did it yourself it looks like you definitely have the skills to take on the head gasket. If you hired someone to do all this your probably broke. But if your up to the task Rockauto has a full top end gasket set for under 100.
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I just came in from getting the timing belt installed and adjusted. I have been thinking about an upgraded clutch due to what you said about it starting to slip at higher boost. I was able to remove the engine from my 91 automatic without having to mess with the trans or transfer case too much so we will see soon. And the intercooler piping I have pulled so far has not given too much trouble.
And it also looks like you had that thing cleaned up really nice when you did the turbo so I may be able to put another engine together for my 91 without much extra investment and have two good running pathfinders.
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I have a spare dizzy if you need one, came out of a 91. Its yours if you want it just cover the shipping shoot me a PM if you want it.
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I just use a cheapo magnetic angle finder you can find at home depot for under 20 bucks for camber.
Actually that is a lie I just stand back about 20 feet and eyeball it and think about grabbing my angle finder and get a beer instead.
There are some really good videos on youtube doing an alignment using an angle finder and some string just search diy alignment.
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Looks like there is a ground lug behind the passenger side kick panel that nearly the entire body grounds through, including fuel pump relay, wipers, and radio.
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Sounds like a sticking relay. Check the wiring diagram to see what the radio and wipers have in common on both power and ground sides. Either a relay stuck, not getting power or ground, or the components not getting ground.
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Yes only the upstream o2 can throw that code, Is that the only code you have? Since you already have o2's ordered. replace the upstream and clear codes and see if anything comes back. If it does we need to track down either a low performing cyl, injector, or air getting in after the maf. I would bet its just a bad o2
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Hello and Thanks for the help.
I have been loosing a battle to P0171 for a few months now. I have checked for Evap leaks, Replaced the Maf, Pulled batterry to reset computer, Reset via scan guage, Cleaned throttle body, replaced fuel filter, new plugs and wires, and I think that is it. My pathfinder is a 2003 SE 4X4 with 140K miles on it. I am unsure what to do next. The code of course is bank 1 Running Lean. My last possibility (to me) would be exhaust? It is a northern car so the exhaust is rusty and perhaps even has a few small holes but it has newer cats. (unusure on cat details) I want to drive this for a while , really love the thing so thinking about a new bank 1 cat and 02 sensors and new cat back exhaust, could that be it?
Has 1 inch OME lift if that is relevent.
Any advise?
Thanks
So with every thing you have done the code is still there, so on bank 1 which is passenger side i think
one of a few things can be going on, the computer thinks you are running lean because the upstram o2 is reporting too much oxygen to the computer. This can be a faulty sensor, an air leak in you exhaust between the engine and the o2 or exhaust gas hitting the atmosphere side of your o2, extra air getting in after the maf, not enough fuel getting to one or more cyl's, or a miss on one or more cyl's. Any reason that your o2 sensor sees oxygen it reports lean even if the cyl is getting enough fuel.-
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Spliced in? Doesn't sound right. It's plug and play
I think he means a new harness side connector was spliced in.
The lack of a tach reading could indicate an issue with the cam sensor but that should throw a code.
Have you checked fuel pressure yet?
Building an engine for the Turbocharged Pathfinder
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
I have oil pressure
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