WOT
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Posts posted by WOT
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and ditching the FMU which is surely not giving you an ideal a/f ratio
You guys must not have emissions in PR.
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Open downpipe at the front of the car?? What is regulating your boost?
Makes alot of noise thats for sure, wouldnt say its a whoooole lot faster than oem
Are those the stocks exhaust manifolds just modyfied and connected under the engine?
Pics are kinda hard to decifer
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This is unrelated, but it would be more beneficial and less wasteful (over time) to do a complete fluid exchange of the transmission using the cooler return line, rather than one or more drain & fills. Here are instructions on how to perform a cooler line exchange:
You will need:
- 12 to 15 quarts of automatic transmission fluid
- A clear gallon jug, something like an empty milk jug
- Another large container to store used fluid for disposal
1. Disconnect the transmission cooler return line and secure it in a collection bucket such as a clear gallon milk jug. This will be the hose on the passenger side of the vehicle; disconnect the end leading towards the transmission.
2. Have a helper start the car while you watch the bucket - once it's half full (2 quarts), yell for the helper to stop the engine.
3. Add 2 quarts of ATF through the transmission dipstick.
4. Drain collection jug into larger jug (i.e. a Disposoil - these only hold 10 quarts though in my experience, so have something else to hold the last 5 quarts).
5. Repeat steps 2-4 until you're out of ATF.
6. Check fluid for proper level (see the next question and answer for details), and recycle the old ATF. Any place that takes used oil will likely recycle ATF.
I'd also strongly consider installing a Magnefine in-line filter. The Magnefine contains a very strong magnet to catch all ferrous wear material, and filtering media in the range of 35 microns to catch anything non-ferrous. A 3/8" Magnefine will fit the OEM transmission cooler hose. See a Magnefine filter in use for 23,000 miles opened here.
I want to do this now!! Seems fairly simple
- 12 to 15 quarts of automatic transmission fluid
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Im curious how you squeezed a manifold in there, turn the camera flash on and post lots of pics if you dont mind
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Well the spare tire and all its components are already gone. Moving the exhuast is no big deal. I have my old exhaust still which was a straight through 2.75" SIDE EXIT using the same flat tip I have on the car now and that exits right infront of the passenger rear tire. So I wouldnt need to worry about any exhaust in the bumper or close to it.
My hitch I definetely need for camping/atv trailer, so I would definetely have to go custom with that. I would just modify the one I have now, and fab my own center bar and reciever tucked further back
Im a little stumped on how I want it to look just yet.
I probably need to think about adding some structure back there, I dont think I just want to take the crash bar out and not have anything there if some idiot smacks me from behind
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No prying!?! Heck, I would swear mine was pressed into that tube
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Well my engine cover isnt factory and does cover more, or Im a blind idiot. Both possible
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I lied, the hardpipe is at the bottom of your picture. These holes must be hidden under the engine cover
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I actually glanced at these holes today while under the hood and my car does have something in those holes. It was a bracket for a hardpipe that ran across the front of the engine, I dont think I followed it to find out what the pipe came/went from anyways
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the metal bumper can just be unbolted though right?
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Are you sure your car needs the torx bits with the security hole?? My screws were just regular torx bits, and you can buy a set of those for $5
Orientation of the sensor does matter but it can only go in one way
I dont think I would disconnect the battery just to clean the MAF though
Also, if this is the first time in a while youve taken the MAF out, its snug as hell in there, so you need a very thin flat tipped screwdriver to pry it up enough to where you can wiggle it out. The plastic around it is very weak and marks/chips easily. A teflon tool would be a good idea if you care about this sort of thing.
Cheers!
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A nice rattle can paint job would make you not hate your wheels. It only takes 2 hours at most to finish the job ( I like to leave them a few days atleast before installing, but Im sure you could be careful and put them back on same day) and would probably only run you $25-$35 for the project.
Krylon Fusion paint is by far the best Ive found, for most all plastics/metals, and comes in almost any colour. Or if you want EXTREME durability, Tremclad Rust paint can take a might beating, but comes in very limited colours, and takes a full day to dry
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New ideas on thursday usually mean my girlfriend doesnt see me for the weekend haha
A toggle switch inside the car for that work light would make quick work of tailgaters
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I think it just wasnt running right, bad idle and startup I believe. And for the hundred or so the maxima units cost new, I tried it. Then another. Then just cleaned the oem one and thats how its ran best
Thats a couple bills Id like to have back for the casino
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Distributors are wacky, and I never trust them
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Passenger side closest to the rad. Im pretty certain its technically cylinder 1. Its the only one on my VQ that is different physically than the other 5 anyways, which is why I stupidly bought it last
I also had no luck using the Maxima MAF when I swapped it in favour of the cleaned OEM piece, the maxima one just never ran well (forget the symptoms it was 18months ago) and I went back to the OEM one which Im currently using.
I actually have two maxima mafs in the garage from that ordeal. One new, one barely used, maybe I should try em again
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Definitely had some misfiring, car ran like junk when I got it. Ended up being 1 coil pack and 2 VTC sensors and a vacuum line to the intake tube.
I just wish the exhaust manifolds/cats were atleast visible in our rigs. I expect if ever take it apart I would need to replace everything, and remove alot of parts in the way of any exhaust related bolt
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I would always use stainless on exterior nuts/bolts, you grounded to the firewall??
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It might just be that I want to get rid of them haha, but they do have 123k on them. I dont burn any oil between oil changes
Its probably just my heavy right foot that determines my big gas mileage fluxuation
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my car jumps all over the place, sometimes I get 275 to a tank, sometimes 175. Usually in the 225-240 range
My cats are oem and probably near shot, should probably remove/gut/replace those. Stupid laws
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isnt the blinker fluid reservoir bracket supposed to be there?
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Someones looking at your junk while driving!!!
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My car had the exact problem. On a cold start, would fire strong and jump to 1300 rpm and gradually come down as it warmed up. But if the car was hot, when I started it, it would idle at like 400ish rpm or just die out unless you gave it some gas.
Cleaned the MAF, problem solved.
Id try that if you havent done it recently
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I can definitely mold my own body panels, I practically live in fiberglass lol.
I'll have to do some magic in photoshop (which I cant use yet lol)
I made a front lip for the front that I wont install til summer, which is flush/level with the running boards, so Im hoping I can smooth, and possibly extend/lower the rear bumper down a bit to the ground and make it a "BIT" more aggressive/aero looking. Like I said im just bored, glad you get what Im saying
Wheel bearing lock nut socket
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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but setting it to that 70 ft lb is crucial, i dont think setting it with a screwdriver is a reliable idea
I modified the dana 44 easily, it was the only one i could find locally and i needed it that day