WOT
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Posts posted by WOT
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50ft/lbs on a smalll n/a v8 out of headers and an exhaust.... ?
Salt please
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I bought mine from this place. For any canadian, or anyone for that matter, this place is dirt cheap, oem, and does actual shipping. I paid $105 USD shipped for the maxima maf and tube to the GTA
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330498217353&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
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The spacers are phenolic, this is a hard composite material that has very little thermal trasmission. If you make the part out of metal all you are doing is extending your runners and that is missing the point. The point is to themally isolate the upper manifold.
He can CNC cut whatever material you want Id imagine. Ive seen alot of billet aluminum spacers
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I was just putting his name out there incase someone wanted to actually do it since it doesnt look like there is a product developed yet
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I did some checking today and the strut mounted upper cross bar definetely would be a hard thing to do. But I heard a few guys saying they couldnt fit a bar across the top of the motor and the hood. I placed a 13/16" solid bar across my engine and the hood shut no problem.
BUT, like mentionned there is a clutter of things in the way and there is a 4-5" height difference from the top of the strut tower to the top of the engine. So making this pretty wont be easy as you have to go up at a prety step angle. I almost want to curve a bar around the front of the engine....
If I could buy a set of strut flanges off of you Shift220, I could come up with something.
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It says the Q Industries MV50 has a max working voltage of 13.7
Do you think that really matters?? Would be a bummer to not be able to use it with the car running and charging at 14.7 and have to have the car off to use it
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A side exit exhaust.....really?
Is that a like or a dislike?? But yes its a side exit, sounds amazing. 2" from each bank to a flowmaster 40 flowthru, single 3" outlet to a crazy bend I had to make to clear the rear LCA under suspension movement. Into that 2" high 5' wide tip
I think it turned out OK, I was just bored
I live in the GTA in Canada, seems like a few people from this board might be close
Im working on ALOT of projects for this winter, I made my own missing link bar just because I can, new WJ lowerring springs, stainless brake lines, just re0did the sub box and making new fiberglass door pods, and probably some fiberglass engine covers for this ugly ass engine bay to
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Aaron from weirtech.ca (GTA, Canada) makes all my custom flanges and one off pieces I need, all he needs is a gasket and he can make the part in metal with perfect accurate cnc holes and tapped holes and everything. Can use whatever thickness metal you want.
Hes made atleast 15 flanges for me, and like I said all he needs is a gasket and he can make it with whatever metal whatever thickness, and has more than fair prices for CNC machine work. I pay less than $30 each for my flanges, id expect to see a t/b spacer in the $30 range form him, and in intake spacer maybe $50
EDIT: he does price breaks if you can start up group buys and such to, I got some of my honda friends and online friends to buy about 50 of the same flange and it cut the cost down alot
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we're not talking about the IAT sensor, as thats located in the lower box and doesnt really pertain to much except the ambient tempurature of the air coming in. we;re just talking about a rubber vacuum line, with really no vacuum to it.
The car knowing an accurate tempature of the cars incoming air so it can adjust timing/fuel isnt important??
Cmon now....
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nothing for VQ??
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Would probably cost alot to get your drivetrain to be able to hold the power though, oem clutch aint going to cut it @ 250+ foot pounds lol
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NICE thread! thanks for emailing someone for some info
I personally actually wanna LOWER my 01 R50, which is 2wd.
Do you think they make a WJ spring that would bring me down an inch or something?? Maybe there stock size coils?
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When I made my CAI, I made the IAT temp sensor harness longer (the right way) and drill a hole into the top of my K&N filter and siliconed the oem rubber piece into the intake and I can pop the IAT sensor in an out there.
The air in your engine bay can be a much different temp than what your engine in taking in. And can oprobably make for decent runability issues
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silly distributors!!!
Not like coil packs are any different...
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tiny little screw driver and wiggle wiggle wiggle, all of my sensors were PITA to budge out of there casting holes
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Ive been getting some hassle about the taillights lately, there completely black in the day with no lights on, but if I turn the lights on you can see me no prob
Wish they made a tasteful set of asketmarkets for my car
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When I popped off my plastic steering wheel covers I didnt see the T45 or any way to get the air bag off the front of the steering wheel
Did you read any good links on the net on how to remove our specific bag and how to keep track or everything aligned.
I just want my damn cruise control and horn to work!!! Im sick of people being ****** drivers and getting away with it!!
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the airbag wont go off unless you take it out and give it a direct short with a 12v supply, or drop it 10ft onto concrete. i have taken out more airbags than i care to count, with batteries attached, and not one has gone off.
So how do you guys take the damn steering wheels off theses cars then. I took my column covers off today and didnt see any place to pop the wheel itself or get access even to removing the airbag, I dont know if my qx4 is differenn pathys though
Wish it didnt get dark so early!!
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aww!!!!! special tools required eh!!
Id really love to just have my horn working again. I dont quite get (and dont wanna get hit with an airbag lol) how to get access or the old wheel off to see whats broken. I never personally broke mine it came this way but you guys seem to have done this during a lift install??
Any pics with it apart?
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Very nice offer of you guys!!
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I notice all headers on ebay seem to be for 03+ Vq35De's and no mention of listings for any vq35's for any other years
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I'm sure the job was custom but you've got a start, even if you have to cut and relocate 1 or 2 pipes you still have a headder plate that bolts to you head.
I definetely would not want to modify the header extensively. Im looking for bolt on really, the most fab I would hope to do, at the very worst. Is add an 02 sensor bung in the correct place for my vehicle incase the car the header was made for had one in a different location. Obviously the exhaust/cat placement after that would all be custom, but I would hope to get a manifold that fits onto my factory studs and pointed the collectors in a managable direction...
Id like to think all VQ35 engines had the same exhaust port pattern and stud pattern but I dont think thats all the case with all the models and HR/De etc different engines.
If anyone could clarify...
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Did you ever figure this out man?? My car has had the exact same problem since I bought it, no steering controls, cruise etc, no horn... and probly no airbag..
Aside from taking the plastic shell off the column I dont know how to get the wheel off, it kind of scares me with that airbag right there lol. I didnt know all you had to do was disconnect the batery
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I use 4 liters of Mobil 1 non-synthetic 5w-30 and .75 liters (give or take) of Lucas oil additive.
I buy enough for the year when both go on sale at the same time for almost half price lol
Been doing it since 60k miles (120k now) every 4k miles or so, not a hiccup yet
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Yeah I would like to start off with just what kind of car or specific manifold type to search for on the VQ engines to know that the exhaust port and studs line up like oem, then see if there was any chance of actually bolting them on and having them not fire into a firewall or engine mount, with proper 02 locations even in my best wishes lol, then I can just fabricate the rest of the exhaust from there
I'll have to try and research which Vq's have the same exhaust ports first I guess
EDIT: just searched for about an hour on this site and a few others for options, I didnt find a lick of info on anyone putting any sort of aftermarket header on there R50, I figured someone would have done this before for sure, those factory manifolds sure must flow crappy... they look restrictive anyways, and ugly
Strut Tower Brace
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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I dont have my car close to me now or I would measure the protrucing threads but that OEM nut has got to be 3/4" thick you can buy a thinner higher grade metal one to save some thread and probably fit a 3/8" flange no problem
I know Ive got (2) 3/16" battery lugs under one of the strut bolts and felt fine with how much threads it grabbed (I think it may have still came out of the back of the bolt)
Good point though, definetely something Ill have to remember to look at before starting, I really do want to make one of these though, most likely wrapping around the front of the engine to avoid the crazy upward angle that I think I would have a hard time retaining rigdity with