Methfinder

I'm going to finish the front first. I still need to see whether I need to raise the back or not. Right now, I have several expensive parts to install: Cv axles, sub-frame drop, brake lines, new tires, timing belt and everything that should be replaced at the same time, a broken exhaust, etc. If I get all this out of the way, and I still have money, I'll buy one from you.

Truthfully, I never was impressed with the pathfinder motors. I always figured I'd let mine die, then replace it with something better. But, after reading here a bit, I realize they have alot of untapped power and strength. I have a 99.5, 3.3L. I'm not sure what engine that is exactly. Would this handle the extra hp the same as some of the older motors? Would I have to use different rods/valves/pistons? Just curious if this motor could handle the twin turbo conversion without changing parts out. Oh yeah, it also has over 150,000 miles on it. I've noticed a sharp decline in power since I bought it a year ago.

Thanks for the link. Yeah, I've never noticed that before. If it's too much of a problem I'll fix it. Do you sell it?

could somebody explain the problem associated with not having a rear panhard drop bracket? I've been running my 3" lift for about a year now without it. So far, I haven't had any problems. It will be an inch higher in a couple of weeks. I don't know if this will change anything.

never mind the chrome, where's the mud? sage brush scratches? dents? You can only baby a beast for so long you know. Nice truck.

I'd almost be willing to bet his gas mileage improved. Keep in mind, this isn't a super charger that is belt driven. Think about the 86 Buick Regal, or any Pontiac with a 3.8 liter engine, compared to the twin turbo Grand National. They all have the same 3.8 liter engine. The 86 regal got around 18 to 20mpg. My daily driver 96 Pontiac Bonneville can get around 25 mpg. My buddy's 87 Grand National with twin turbos was getting 30mpg. More power, same weight, and possibly some tuning = better fuel economy. The power to weight ratio is a huge factor in fuel economy. Corvettes get around 27mpg with their beastly V8 motors. Diesel trucks such as 18-wheelers and Japanese box trucks commonly run twin turbos for the purpose of increasing fuel economy. I also think they run them so they can pass my pathfinder on the interstate, and make me feel bad.

I was thinking of doing a straight axle swap to get my rear lsd. There is an infiniti Qx4 sitting in a junkyard about 5 min from my house. i've been taking stuff off of it like roof racks and struts (well at least part of the struts). The Qx4 is like the LE Pathfinder, if i'm not mistaken. Correct me if I'm wrong here. Verify if I'm right. Doesn't the infiniti Qx4 have LSD in the rear? My Pathy is a 1999.5 and the Qx4 is almost beyond recognition. (probably 2000, 2001)I'm pretty sure It has the same body style as mine.

just to clarify. I believe Krfab's sub-frame drop would work fine, if I spaced out the pathfinder's stock struts. My struts have a lot more travel. I'll still be able to compress the wheel right up into the fender, while leaving some room for it to drop out as well. The correct solution to my problem would be a longer axle, but I'm not too sure that day has come yet.

I might be going a different route here. Originally, like I said, I wanted to add limit straps to my front suspension to keep my front cv axles from tearing up. Now that they are torn up, and I have to replace them anyway, I'm strongly considering a 4" sub frame drop. After taking out the cv axles I figured I would be half way there, so what the heck, why not go all the way and get er dun right. I do, however, have a few concerns with this modification. First: The sub-frame drop will keep the cv's from tearing up when the suspension is fully extended. What happens to the cv's when my suspension is fully compressed? Do I have to worry about tearing the boots because they are flexing too far in the other direction? (fully compressed) Second: will the angle on the front driveline be too drastic with a 4" sub-frame drop? I want to go with a 4" because I found a guy, krfabs.com, that sells the spacers for the drop, and some guy from Santiago Chile posted a thread where he installed it. Looks pretty straight forward. The only difference with me is I won't be using the strut spacers provided by krfab because I already have the struts

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3eRYCs6V74 I didn't have a spring compressor so I improvised a little.

All finished! It was actually finished before January like I promised. I just couln't find time to post the pictures. Some of you asked what I was going to do about the struts extending out too far. I am going to add limit straps. I'm just being carefull with it right now so I don't ruin my c/v's. I'm open to suggestions for the limit straps. I'll eventually get some good flex shots. It's only a 3 inch lift, nothing spectacular.

Here's a shot of the upper mount installed with the strut.

This is part of the stock strut I cannabolized and altered for my upper mounts. They bolted right on after I notched out the inner fender to make them fit.

The new custom lower mounts on my mismatched set of ori struts. Like I said, this was expirimental, so I didn't use brand new stuff.

The finished lower mounts. I made them a press fit onto the ori strut's lower shaft by inserting a piece of electrical conduit to the inside of the lower mounts, then cutting a slit into the lower mounts. The slit made it so I could slide the piston shaft into the new lower mounts.

Using a mill, I drilled holes to gain access to the damper adjustment and air fill port on the ori strut.

Setting up one of the strut's lower mounts on an engine lathe to bore out the bottom

Yes, it was perfectly functional before I did this.

These are some struts I pulled off of a 2000 infiniti.

I installed the pro comps in the back a couple of nights ago. I found it to be a rougher ride but it corners alot better. So far I havn't taken it off road. I'm holding out for my tires. I had a blow out so I no longer have a spare. My other 4 tires are so dry rotted they're ready to go any day now. I'll have more updates on the rest of the project before the month is over.

You're right. I can't bolt the ORI directly onto the spindle. I will be using a brace similiar to the original on the lower mount to support the side load. It will wrap around the lower mount and the piston shaft with a 1/2 bolt through the mount to hold the strut. I am swapping out the ORI's piston shafts with longer ones so the struts don't bottom out on the custom brace. The struts should be able to support the side load after I secure it at the spindle. If not, I know how to reinforce them. It's all experimental. Thanks for you're advice. I'm learning as I go.

This seems to be the common misconception with the ORI's. They are indeed struts that hold the weight of the vehicle without the aid of coils. I have already mounted them to the front of a 99 jeep wrangler with a curb weight of about 3200lbs and they ride nice. My pathfinder's curb weight is about 600lbs more so I'm not sure exactly what to expect. I roughly estimated about 1100lbs per wheel in the front of the Pathfinder(I havn't confirmed this yet) and the ORI's are supposed to be able to hold over 1300lbs per strut. Guys with full sized trucks, like broncos, have mounted these but needed to up the pressure giving them a little stiffer ride.