Towncivilian
-
Posts
2,010 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
16
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Towncivilian
-
-
When you check the plugs, check the back one (aka PITA Plug). Mine was running rough....the other 5 were fine...the back one barely had an electrode.
After my lift, I kept on the rock sliders (running boards) and am putting on bigger mudflaps.
Not applicable to the VQ35, there is no "back" plug that's impossible to access. All are equally difficult to access except plug #4 which requires the IACV to be removed.
-
1
-
-
HM oil is worth a try. It will likely slow the oil consumption. It may take several oil changes with the HM oil before you see any significant difference, so do not be discouraged if nothing changes with the first use of the oil.
-
If that were true, wouldn't the synthetic molecules leak out of your engine, leaving the conventional molecules there?
It may be true that synthetic oil, at the time it was introduced, caused leaks in vehicles due to the different basestocks compared to conventional oil and lack of proper seal compatibility additives. However, synthetic oil today is compatible with all seals and almost certainly will not cause any leaks. I've read of synthetic oil clearing up some sludge that is creating a "false seal" which then creates a leak, but if you've kept up with oil changes and there are no other mechanical issues you should have no trouble switching to synthetic oil. If leaks do happen to pop up, switching back to your oil of choice should stop them in a couple hundred miles.
Not that synthetic oil is inherently "better" at reducing wear or providing lubrication. There is very little benefit to running synthetic oil for anything shorter than a 6k mile oil change interval, except in extreme conditions like very cold temperatures where synthetic will flow better. Check out this person's many used oil analyses. He ran Pennzoil Ultra for many OCIs, then switched to Mobil Super 5000 and achieved about the same oil change interval length with no increase in wear.
-
I think the second option will be easier, but I don't know which one will be cheaper. I think a hardware store should be able to physically cut the key for you, and then the dealer can program it. You should be able to purchase the correct OEM blank key with chip online, if you want me to find the part number and get the lowest price Rob should be able to help you in this thread.
-
Short trips are not good for the oil, no matter if it is a conventional or synthetic oil. Short trips do not allow the oil to reach operating temperature for extended periods of time. Moisture never gets boiled off, and since the engine constantly runs in open loop there is more fuel dilution of the oil. Switch to a conventional oil and a cheaper filter and change every 3k miles if you cannot get the oil to operating temperature weekly, at least.
Oil consumption may be caused by a malfunctioning or clogged PCV valve, which is unfortunately buried under the lower intake manifold on our VQ35DE engine. However, since you say it's been consuming oil since you've had the car, it's more likely there was preexisting damage - possibly neglect by the previous owner, or a power valve screw worked itself loose and was ingested by the intake, which then caused engine damage (scored cylinder walls, etc).
-
2
-
-
Try following the preliminary check described on page EL-226 of the factory service manual.
-
If it blinks, the start issue is due to the security system.
-
Does the security light blink after a failed start?
-
Even if an independent mech had the CONSULT-II, it is highly doubtful that they can actually access Nissan's network to pull the ECU ROM for flashing.
I will dig up the TSB for you soon.
You don't have spark plug wires, go return them.
Spray silicone spray in the window tracks to clean them out and they should work faster.
-
Have you tried loosening and retightening ground screws?
-
It is fine. Shake up the bottle before pouring it in.
-
That line often clogs with carbon (well, relatively often as in it's a rather common problem). Not sure how exactly as the swirl valves are part of the intake.
-
If the issue is sulfur buildup on the fuel level sending unit, Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner may help clear it up.
-
Have you changed the fuel filter in the engine bay?
-
1
-
-
I don't understand how any "crud" can get sucked in from the bottom of the tank. The fuel pump pickup is at the bottom of the tank. What is there to suck up? There's also a sock over the pickup and the in-line fuel filter to catch anything. I suppose it's possible for the pickup screen to become clogged but most new cars have just that filter and I've never read of a case where it *needed* to be replaced - it's basically a lifetime filter (oh how I hate that term) and is to be replaced with the fuel pump assembly. The in-line fuel filter becoming clogged is certainly a possibility, I'm not sure they have bypass valves.
-
Yes, that's the area. The filter is actually beneficial in that regard, it can prevent a lot of crap from clogging the evaporator core.
-
1996 and above Pathfinders have cabin air filters. Even if it didn't come with them from the factory, it was easily added with a little X-Acto knife cutting.
-
At 105k miles, the spark plugs were due for replacement. If you don't have service records, pull a spark plug and see how they look.
Replacement of all fluids would be a good idea as well. Transmission fluid, differentials, transfer case, engine coolant, brake fluid (and clutch if applicable), power steering fluid. Replace engine air, fuel and cabin air filters too.
Have your Pathfinder inspected for the strut housing corrosion recall if it hasn't been yet. Call your local dealer (have your VIN ready) if you're unsure.
Welcome to NPORA!
-
1
-
-
Check the vacuum hose at the cruise actuator. It could have a leak.
-
Actually, there is a drain plug crush washer which is supposed to be replaced every time the plug is removed. That will prevent any leaks by itself.
-
-
No sealant is required. Teflon tape is suitable.
-
^
✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓
There is more info about filter minders and longevity of engine air filters here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3018433&page=1 (mostly beginning with Jim Allen's post about halfway down the page)
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2878886&page=1 (others' experiences with filter minders on many different engines)
-
Bypass the stock cooler and install an in-line filter as well for lower fluid temps, cleaner fluid and a happier automatic transmission.
Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Not perceptibly.