Towncivilian
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Posts posted by Towncivilian
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R50s have a hood switch next to the driver's side headlight assembly.
Cool mod, nice work! Looks bright for sure.
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Water should boil off after a little bit of time spent at operating temperature. Maybe go on some long curvy roads to help get the fluid hotter.
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Indeed, power valves working themselves loose and getting sucked into the intake is an issue. It's rare, but it happens. The best thing to do is to apply red (permanent) Loctite; blue is fine too, but the screws should never need to be removed again for any reason.
I agree on having the transmission, differential(s), power steering, coolant, brake fluid serviced.
An auxiliary transmission cooler and an in-line transmission filter are also a great addition even if you do not tow or offroad. A B&M 70264 cooler is 24,000 GVW and will fit easily. You can see how I mounted my transmission cooler (a thinner 70268, but otherwise identical cooler), routed the hoses and the Magnefine in-line filter I used here: https://imgur.com/a/giVyz
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Your 2003 R50 does not have an LSV, so bleed in this order:
1. Left rear brake
2. Right rear brake
3. Left front brake
4. Right front brake -
You do not have to worry about the timing chain or water pump. You should replace spark plugs now, though.
Has the fuel filter ever been changed? Cabin air filter?
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Page SC-19 of the factory service manual shows removal and installation to be two bolts. How accessible those bolts are may vary if you have a 4WD. I'd imagine they are easy to get to on my 2WD without a front diff in the way.
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Have you ever changed the transmission fluid? Do not add any additives except Lubegard Red, which is used by many transmission shops and has been mentioned specifically in some manufacturers' technical service bulletins. It will lower operating temperatures and help keep things operating normally.
Bypassing the stock transmission cooler and running an auxiliary cooler with an inline filter is a very good idea too.
Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner may help your fuel gauge issue if sulfur build up on the sender is the problem.
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Sometimes the mechanism fails to work as intended (lack of lube, dust build up, etc) plus the adjuster has to wait for an entire groove in its mechanism before adjusting, so it may take a while. Also if it is adjusted too tightly it can't loosen itself.
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Your ABS light should turn on for a second or two when you turn the ignition to "ON". You should also hear it self-testing when you first reach 5 mph going either forward or reverse. Is this the case?
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Yes, ABS works during hard stops for me. Fluid is fresh (~3 or 4 months), rear drums recently cleaned, lubed, and adjusted along with parking brake and brake pedal free play. Front hardware needs some cleaning and lubing (awful squeaking lately) but is otherwise fine. Nice pedal feel after fresh fluid and everything adjusted.
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Mobil 1 75W-90 can be obtained for cheap if you order online from Advance Auto Parts and use discount codes (Google for them). You can get 5 quarts for about $35. No LSD additive is required with M1.
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Check fuses listed on page EL-121 of the factory service manual for your specific audio system; fuse numbers are depicted on the third page of the foldout section of the FSM.
Can somebody fix the damn forum software to actually parse links correctly without having to paste as plain text first?
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Yes, unbeatable price for M1. How long will you be running the oil? Unless you run it 6k or longer there is no benefit; conventional oil will protect just as well. Not saying there's anything wrong with M1 especially for the great price, just something to think about.
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Seems like a recurring issue as of late and I don't mean to sound like a broken record but, engine coolant temperature sensor?
Welcome to NPORA!
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It's not hate, it's just not specified for out vehicles, plus VQ engines tend to shear oil and lower its operational viscosity.
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5W-20 is not suitable for our engines. Exchange that jug for a 5W-30 jug.
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http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2000_Pathfinder/el.pdf'>Page EL-5 of the factory service manual should help you out.
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What is the color and smell of the fluid? Does it smell burnt?
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Engine coolant temperature sensor? Its position is described on http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/ec.pdf'>page EC-12 of the factory service manual. I can't find any reference resistance values, so maybe just replace the part and see if it improves.
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It takes all of five minutes to remove and replace the door panel, and the button is easily accessible after removal. There is even a pictorial guide on NICO http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-remove-door-trim-on-1999-qx4-t445467.html'>here. Maybe that would change his mind?
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I blew my fuse installing LED's in the dome light and It caused my map lights to stop working also, changed the fuse and it was all good afterwards. If it's 100% not the fuse, maybe the LED's draw to much power for your battery/alternator/etc. to handle and can't power up. Check out load resistors and that kind of stuff to help the power distribution.
LEDs draw next to no current. You may have blown a fuse if you installed the LED bulb backwards since they are polarized.
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Room lamp fuse behind coin tray?
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The only ones I have heard of is Bosch and Brembo. Out of those choices, Bosch or Brembo are good picks.
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Do you mean VQ35DE? A VG35DE doesn't exist as far as I know.
The VQ35DE is a very tight fit in an R50 engine bay as it is, I don't think there will be enough room in a WD21 for it.
What did you do to your Pathfinder today?
in The Garage
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I replaced my cruise cancel switch rubber bumper. Just popped right in. Old one disintegrated after 13 years, not too bad.