trance34

Do you leave the keys in your pocket? The key Fob is really touchy.

Drive shaft and u joints replaced under drive train warranty

I have this same issue, and that is actually why I am here trying to see if I could resolve on my own. I have 40k on my truck. Did you get the problem fixed? Was it u joints? I had my wheels balanced so thats not it. would this be covered under the drive train warranty? JP

I don't recall seeing the RCA's when I pulled mine out. I did see the conection for the pac thing. You could buy one of those or one similar that has the RCA's on it and go that route.

I got my Pathfinder!

Luci, the 10 month old Austrailian cattle dog.

I thought this is how I would do it also. I read on another forum that it has to be done another way. I have yet to try so I don't know. you fog lamp relay is powered through the headlamp relay. so your headlights would need to be on to power the fog lamp relay. The ground side of the relay goes through the foglamp switch then up through the headlight switch which must be switched to low beam position to supply the ground to the circuit. The fog lamps them selfs are powered directly through the fog lamp relay. How to circumvent the control circuit of the relay which has both control of power side and ground side of the fog lamp relay. You will need to cut 2 wires and add your own wires to make the circuit work. Draw back, The fog lamps will stay illuminated as long as the fog lamp switch is turned on. Meaning, even when the high beams are on the fog lamps will still be illuminated. Also there is no battery saver function control of the fog lamps[ they will not be shut off if accedently left on by the smart entrance control unit. like they are now.] Your vin number will play a part in this by pass as the power supply wire from the headlamp relay to the fog lamp relay is different colors. If the last 6 of your vin are lower then 500000 then the wire is R/B [red with black stripe] if your vin is after 500000 then the color is R/L[red with blue stripe] At the fog lamp relay remove the relay and look inside the terminal area of the relay. You will see numbers if you look very carfully. at terminal #2 you should see the power wire mentioned above. Remember you are looking at the relay upside down so be sure you match up the right terminal as the other side is the same color wire. cut that wire about an inch from the relay connector, R/B or R/L wire. To verify you have the right wire before cutting use a voltmeter to test for power with the headlights on in that terminal. With the realy out the other wire wont have power. Now go to your fog lamp switch and find the Y/B [yellow with black stripe] wire and cut it about an inch from the switch. It is strongly recommended you use a soldiering iron to properly connect these wires and use either heat shrink or self adhering electrical wrap.[ not black electrical tape] The electrical wrap is as good as heat shrink as it completely seals the conection from moisture. on the fog lamp Y/B wire you will be running a wire from the wire coming off the switch to a good ground under your dash. Do this by "tinning" both the wire you are adding and the Y/B wire coming off the switch. Slide your head shrink tube onto the wire your adding and away from the heat of your iron. soldier the 2 wires together. allow to cool slightly. slide your heat shrink tube over the connection and shrink it. Attach the other end of the wire to a ground point under the dash. ie a body nut or bolt on either the metal behind the kick panel or the cowel near the steering colum mount. On the power wire at the relay [see color description above] prepare the joint the same you did with the ground. However this wire will be jointed in to the R/Y wire at the RH headlamp relay [ there are 2 either is fine as they come from the same fuse source.] you will be using another piece of wire to jump the 2 wires. no need to cut the R/Y wire just cut away about a half inch of the insulation about and inch or so from the relay. "tin" the wire quikly as to much heat will start melting the insulation. then joint it together as you did above with the gound and the other end of this wire.[using this method you wont beable to use the heat shrink tubing. alternativly you can cut the R/Y wire and joint it like the others to use heat shrink tubing.] the other way to do this would be to just use end connectors and a scotch lock at the head lamp relay.[ no soldiering] but using this method puts you at risk of moisture collection on the joints ultimatly causeing corrison increasing current draw on the circuit and possible complete circuit failure over time.