shooter
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Posts posted by shooter
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I googled it and one solution suggested by a mechanic (he says) was to put a dollop of grease on each side of the belt. 150 miles later it is still quiet.
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yeah the guide is legit i used it the other day
All I know is the idle went from 1400 to 750 immediately. It speeds up to about 850 when the a/c is turned on. Looking at your tutorial I think My1Path has that screw marked as "idle adjustment screw, driver's right)
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When I recently changed my t-belt I also changed the alternator and p.s. belts. The alternator belt has a little squeak to it at idle. Not a squeal from slipping, just a little slow speed squeak. When I spray a little belt dressing on it it will stop for a while then come back. Is there a good belt dressing or any other trick to stop this squeak? Thanks. I saw on youtube to hold a candle against the underside of it to stop a squeak by getting wax on it. Didn't work.
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This may be common knowledge but I just found the absolute idle control adjustment screw on my 89. After years of suffering with 1300/1400 idle speed now it is at 750. You can leave the air cleaner on. With a fairly long handled screwdriver just slide it just to the left of the 2nd spark plug boot-you can see the screw facing the passenger side. When you look on the front of the tbi you can see the screw just to the left of the 2nd plug boot on the front bottom of the tbi. Just back it off with the engine running and it will immediately drop the rpm down. I don't why I never tried this screw before. Flashlight, screwdriver and 2 minutes is all you need.
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Anybody ever turn their air filter top metal cover upside down? It sounds like it has more power because of the air sucking noise but it is just imagination I guess. It would get air easier but it would get underhood air instead of cooler air from the air intake nozzle.
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I'm really glad that reporting my problem, asking for help, and following up with what I found helped someone else.
Reply here if you want to hear my story about the passenger side rug getting wet after a rain, and the really weird solution I found....that one took me a year to figure out.
Also, I would be interested in hearing more about how to mount 6x9 speakers in this rig. The 4x6s I found to replace the fronts, and the 5 1/4" I have mounted in the back roof (even though they are Boston Acoustics) just aren't cutting it for me. I have a set of BA 6x9's I'm dying to put in here....
I will take a guess on the wet rug problem. Fresh air intake on the back of the hood plugged up with gunk and won't let rainwater drain out so it overflows into cab?
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Final adjustments today. Seems like it didn't idle as smoothly as before. Found a vacuum hose off. At least one of those vacuum hoses behind the tbi is critical to smooth idle/low rpm running. Silky smooth now. Ran it up to 5500 rpm in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th. Pulls strong (well for 152 hp anyway)
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Just finished my first timing belt install. Used some of the tutorials I could find here and other places. I didn't do the TDC thing like most tutorials advise. I just marked my camshaft pulleys exactly where they were when I started. Also marked the rotor location in the distributor.
Things/problems I noted as I went through the job:
Instead of removing the skidplate to get to the drain plug I just cut the bottom radiator hose-Not going to use the old hose anyway-instant drain.
I removed the radiator, then the fan shroud, then the fan, then the upper cam pulley cover, then the 27mm bolt on the crankshaft by putting a pipe over the rachet handle (5 speed in gear w/emer brake on) then the harmonic balancer (puller $15.95 at advance auto) This is when I marked the cam pulleys and marked the location of the "key" on crankshaft, also marked the location of the rotor in the distributor. Then I cut the old timing belt-problem was, both camshaft pulleys moved about an inch off the mark. Had to put a pry bar in the holes in the pulleys to bring them back to their correct location, then peg them in place by wedging a screwdriver through a hole in each one because they wanted to go back to their wrong locations. When the one on the driver's side goes to it's correct location the rotor also moves back to it's correct location. Then I slipped the new timing belt on with the tensioner as loose as it will go-Was a tight fit. (New timing belt $13.95 at advance auto-dayco brand wow, good price) Then I turned the engine over with the socket wrench on the crankshaft bolt to make sure I hadn't make a big mistake (valves hitting pistons) That seemed ok so I put the harmonic balancer on and started it up briefly (very briefly-no radiator, no water pump turning etc) Started right up. Then put it all back together in reverse order with new radiator hoses, new p.s. belt, new alt. belt (all a/c stuff taken off a couple years ago) Another thing that was different from tutorials was that the tensioner releases counterclockwise. To get all the belts on it was a big help to turn the 27mm crankshaft to turn the engine while helping the belts on with a flat prybar. Easist way to loosen the alt and the p.s. pump are while you have everything out (radiator, fan etc) The biggest problem for me was getting those camshaft pulleys back to the mark, you can't just move them by hand (even with the spark plugs out), have to pry them or turn them with their center bolt. Probably a good idea to use the TDC method you read about to get the belt to line up instead of how I did it-I was lucky, could have been 1 sprocket off and it might still appear to be sitting at the mark you make. I didn't change my water pump or t-stat. Mine has 120k miles and is a third vehicle, getting less and less use. I was on pins and needles though that the t-belt might break and ruin the engine, or the bottom radiator hose might spring a leak-all original stuff.
factory shocks
in 86.5-89 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
How do the factory shocks work? What actually happens when you switch from touring to sport?